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Watch the video: Easy Peasy Knit Hat - Good Housekeeping Stitch Club by Good Housekeeping
Knit a soft, stretchy color-block beanie from cast-on to final seam—no guesswork, just simple moves you can master at your own pace. This Easy Peasy Knit Hat is built on knit-and-purl basics, a forgiving rib stitch, and a tidy finish that looks store-bought. If you’ve knitted a scarf, you have everything you need to finish this hat with confidence.
What you’ll learn
- How to cast on 70 stitches with a backward loop method and work a clean K2/P2 rib.
- A quick, seamless way to change yarn colors.
- Crown shaping with straightforward decrease rows you can track by stitch count.
- A neat side seam and brim finish, plus weaving in ends invisibly.
Get Started with the Easy Peasy Knit Hat
Why the Rib Stitch is Perfect for Beginners Ribbing is elastic and forgiving—great news when you’re still finding your tension. This project uses a K2/P2 rib across flat rows to build the hat body and brim. You’ll alternate between the purl stitch (yarn in front) and knit stitch (yarn in back) for a clean, springy fabric that expands as you wear it. If your cast-on looks tight on the needle, don’t worry: it relaxes once it’s off the needle and worn.
Pro tip: The video starts you on a purl, then continues in an even K2/P2 rhythm. To keep the rib consistent from row to row, stitch “knits over knits and purls over purls.” If you end a row with P2, begin the next with K2 so the columns stay aligned. Several commenters clarified this helpful two-row repeat rhythm.
What You’ll Need: Tools & Materials
- Two balls of yarn in contrasting colors (the video shows green and lilac)
- US 7 knitting needles
- Scissors or snips
- Darning needle for finishing
The yarn weight isn’t specified in the video itself, but a Good Housekeeping team reply in the comments mentions using a worsted yarn that calls for a US 8 needle; the class demonstrates on US 7s. If your fabric looks too loose, a GH reply suggests tightening tension or going down a needle size.
Watch out: Cast on with an easy, breathable tension. If the backward loop cast-on is too tight, it will be harder to knit into those first rows. You can always redo a few yards of cast-on—worth it for a smooth start.
Quick Start: Casting On Your First Stitches
- Make a slip knot and place it on the needle.
- Cast on 70 stitches using the backward loop method.
- Keep loops slightly loose so you can easily work into them on Row 1.
The instructor confirms 70 stitches on the needle before beginning the rib. Even if it looks snug bunched up on the needle, it expands off the needle.
Mastering Basic Knitting Stitches
Step-by-Step: The Purl Stitch For the purl, bring the yarn to the front. Insert the needle from right to left through the front of the loop, wrap the yarn over and under, pull through, and slide it off. This becomes the “valley” column in your rib and gives the fabric its stretch.
Step-by-Step: The Knit Stitch For the knit, move the yarn to the back. Insert the needle from left to right, wrap the yarn over, pull through, and slide off. These are your raised “ridge” columns that make the rib pop.
Creating the Ribbed Fabric Pattern Work in K2/P2 across each row. The video starts the first row with purl stitches, then continues in pattern. To keep your rib tidy:
- Check the stitch facing you: knit the Vs, purl the bumps.
- If you ended with P2 on the last row, begin the next row with K2 to keep the columns stacked.
- Keep your yarn in front for purls and in back for knits to avoid accidental yarn-overs.
From the comments: Many beginners asked whether to always start with the same stitch. Multiple replies clarified a simple two-row repeat: Row 1 P2 K2; Row 2 K2 P2. That maintains the K2/P2 rib in flat knitting.
Adding a Splash of Color
Seamlessly Changing Your Yarn Color When your first section reaches about 7 inches, join your second color at the start of a row and keep working in pattern. The instructor recommends grabbing the working end (not the tail). You can snip the first color and tie the tails loosely to stabilize the join; you’ll weave them in later.
Quick check: After the color change, continue in K2/P2 rib. Hold the tail out of the way and watch your tension so the join doesn’t flare.
Knitting the Color-Block Section Work the second color to about 4 inches. With a total of approximately 11 inches knitted (7 inches in the first color, 4 in the second), you’re ready to shape the crown.
Shaping Your Beanie: Decreasing Stitches
The First Decrease for the Crown
- Row: Knit 2, then purl 2 together.
- Repeat across the row.
At the end of this decrease row, you should have 53 stitches. You’ll notice the rib now reads as K2, P1 across.
Alternating Rows Between Major Decreases Turn your work and alternate for four rows to transition the rib cleanly:
- One row of P2, K1 across.
- Next row of K2, P1 across.
Repeat this two-row alternation for a total of four rows as shown in the class.
Progressive Decreases for a Perfect Shape Second decrease row:
- Knit 2 together, purl 1—repeat across the row.
- At the end of this row, knit the final two stitches normally (don’t decrease them).
After this pass and the subsequent alternating row (K1/P1 established), you should have 36 stitches.
Last decrease row:
- Knit 2 together all the way across the row.
You’ll finish with 18 stitches remaining. Work one last purl row across all 18 stitches; this is the wrong side (inside) of the hat, and the shaping will be clearly visible.
Watch out: Keep moving your yarn to the front for purls and to the back for knits, especially during decrease rows. Forgetting to change position can sneak in extra yarn-overs or holes.
Finishing Touches: Seaming and Weaving
Gathering the Top of Your Hat Pull a long tail from your ball and thread it on a darning needle. Pass through each of the 18 live stitches, remove them from the knitting needle, and pull to cinch the crown closed. Snug it firmly so there’s no gap at the top.
Pro tip: If any stitch slips, pick it back up onto the needle or pass your darning needle through it immediately so it doesn’t ladder.
Sewing the Back Seam and Brim Lay the hat right side up (knit side out). Align the side edges carefully and seam using a neat zigzag through the edge bars, alternating sides. Keep your tension firm so the seam draws closed and blends into the rib. Stop about 3 inches before the bottom edge, flip the brim up, and continue seaming through the folded brim to keep the seam hidden when worn.
From the comments: Some viewers were thrilled to see a flat-knit hat that avoids circular needles. The instructor’s zigzag method is forgiving in rib, so don’t stress if your bars aren’t perfectly matched—the rib has give.
Hiding All Those Loose Ends Thread each tail on your darning needle and weave inside the seam, zigzagging and double-backing so it’s secure. Don’t pierce through to the front; keep the needle within the inside layer so tails disappear. Clip close to the fabric and let the ends pop back into the seam.
Quick check: Try on the hat—rib should feel snug but not tight. The instructor notes the hat relaxes with time and wear.
Your Completed Easy Peasy Knit Hat
Styling Your New Creation Wear it as-is to show off the clean color block or top it with a yarn pom-pom or a faux-fur pom. The video mentions both options. If you made the kit’s second hat with inverted colors, style them as a mix-and-match pair.
Tips for Longevity and Care The video doesn’t specify laundering. If you used the same worsted-style yarn referenced by Good Housekeeping in the comments, defer to the yarn label for care instructions. Rib holds its shape well; avoid stretching when wet. Store flat to keep the crown shaping crisp.
From the comments: Sizing, Gauge, and Fit
- Needle size and yarn: The class uses US 7 needles; a GH comment mentions a worsted yarn that calls for US 8. If your fabric is loose, GH suggests checking tension or trying smaller needles.
- “One size fits most?” A GH reply notes the rib is quite generous. Many viewers reported a good fit; a few found it large and would cast on fewer next time. The video doesn’t provide alternate stitch counts for children or very large sizes.
- Row starts (K or P?): Multiple commenters clarified it’s a two-row repeat—P2 K2, then K2 P2—to maintain true K2/P2 rib in flat knitting.
Watch out: If you ever lose track, look at the stitches: knit the Vs, purl the bumps. That visual check rescues most rib confusion within a row.
Troubleshooting (Based on the Class and Viewer Questions)
- “My first row ends with purl—is that wrong?” Not necessarily. Follow the two-row repeat logic. If you ended with P2, start the next row with K2 so knits stack over knits.
- “My crown looks pointy.” The shaping in the video uses clear decreases that gather at the top; the final purl row and thorough gathering help round it. If you still see a peak, pull the gather snug and secure it well.
- “My seam shows on the brim.” Seam the last 3 inches after flipping the brim up. That hides the join inside the fold—an explicit tip from the class.
Optional: Personalize It (Not Covered in the Video) The class focuses solely on knitting and finishing the hat. If you later decide to add machine-embroidered initials or a patch, that’s outside this tutorial. For readers who already do machine embroidery, you might be familiar with accessories like magnetic embroidery hoop and magnetic embroidery hoops to make positioning easier. Some also use a snap hoop monster or a mighty hoop for sturdier hold, and beginners sometimes look for an embroidery machine for beginners. If you explore this route, consult your machine’s manual and test on swatches first—this hat’s rib is very stretchy, so stabilize cautiously. Others keep a library of attachments including magnetic hoops for embroidery machines for different fabric types.
Notes and Clarifications
- Materials: The video shows two contrasting yarns; exact fiber and brand aren’t specified in the narration. A GH comment references a worsted yarn.
- Measurements: The class specifies 7 inches in color one, 4 inches in color two before decreasing, and a 3-inch flipped brim; other dimensions aren’t provided.
- Stitch counts: After the first decrease row you should have 53 stitches; after the second decrease and pattern rows, 36 stitches; after the final decrease, 18 stitches remain before the last purl row and gathering.
Quick reference (timing)
- Materials rundown: ~00:36
- Cast on 70 with backward loop: ~01:37
- Purl demo: ~02:22; Knit demo: ~03:00
- Switch color: ~04:47–05:03
- First decrease (P2tog in rib): ~06:29
- Second decrease (K2tog, P1): ~09:02; end the row with K2: ~10:04
- Final K2tog across: ~10:50; 18 stitches left ~11:28
- Last purl row: ~11:41
- Gather top: ~12:33
- Seam sides and brim: ~13:36–16:11
- Weave in tails and reveal: ~16:32–17:21
From the comments
- Many beginners finished their first-ever hat following this class; several noted the decrease rows were the trickiest but doable with careful counting.
- Multiple viewers requested gauge and child sizing, which the video does not specify; a GH reply pointed to their downloadable pattern.
- Some preferred circular needles, while others appreciated a flat-knit option with an easy seam.
Wrap-up You’ve just worked a full project using the most fundamental stitches: cast on, knit, purl, simple decreases, and a tidy seam. The ribbed fabric forgives little wobbles and looks sleek in two colors. If you’re feeling extra, top it with a yarn pom or faux fur (as mentioned in the video). Enjoy the stretch, the softness, and the satisfaction of a brim that flips to hide the seam—beginner gold.