Table of Contents
Watch the video: How to Mod Your Stabilizers - Nathan Kim by Nathan Kim
If your spacebar buzzes like a beehive, the fix is smaller than you think. In this hands-on walkthrough inspired by Nathan Kim’s tutorial, you’ll clip, lube, and cushion your stabilizers so they sound tight, feel smooth, and leave your PCB scuff-free. No guesswork—just repeatable, proven steps and sound checks.
What you’ll learn
- How to disassemble GMK screw-in stabilizers safely and identify the two ‘fangs’ to clip.
- Where and how much grease to apply: Teflon for plastic-on-plastic, dielectric for metal-on-plastic.
- How to prepare and place fabric band-aids on the PCB for extra dampening—and how much to lube them.
- How to reassemble, install, and A/B test the results for rattle-free performance.
Introduction to Stabilizer Modding
Why Mod Your Stabilizers? A stock stabilizer can let the wire rattle inside the stem, and its small plastic “fangs” can slap the PCB on bottom-out. Over time, that creates noise and potential wear. Modding solves both: clipping removes the impact points, and targeted lubrication eliminates wire rattle while keeping travel smooth.
Tools and Materials You'll Need From the video, you’ll want stabilizers (GMK screw-in shown), a wire cutter, scissors, fabric band-aids, Teflon grease, dielectric grease, and an earwax picker. Lay them out on a clean workspace so you can move step-by-step without stopping to hunt for anything.
If you arrived here from a different craft rabbit hole—say, shopping for accessories like magnetic embroidery hoop—you’re still welcome. But the process below is strictly about mechanical keyboard stabilizers, not textiles.
Step-by-Step Stabilizer Clipping
Disassembly and Identification Disassemble each stabilizer by twisting and pulling the stem out of the housing, then separating the wire. Keep parts paired so reassembly is straightforward later.
You’ll notice the two ‘fangs’ on the stem: small protrusions on two of the four legs that extend beyond the base when bottoming out.
Precise Clipping for Smooth Operation Use a wire cutter to trim off the two ‘fang’ legs only. Work slowly and check after each clip to make sure you’re removing just the intended plastic. Repeat for all stems so every unit is consistent.
Pro tip Clip over a small tray so you don’t lose plastic offcuts on your desk or into your housings.
Watch out Do not over-clip or cut into areas beyond the two ‘fang’ legs. The video shows only those legs being removed—keep your cuts precise.
Quick check After clipping, press the stem down against a flat surface. It should sit evenly without protrusions that could contact the PCB.
The Art of Lubrication
Teflon Grease for Plastic-on-Plastic Apply a small amount of Teflon grease to the inside surfaces of the housing—just enough to coat without pooling. Then apply a moderate amount to the stem where it contacts the housing. The goal is silent, smooth travel without sluggishness.
From the comments No public comments were provided with the dataset for this video, so there aren’t viewer-sourced tips to share here.
Dielectric Grease for Metal-on-Plastic Now address the primary noise source: the wire rattling inside the stem. Apply dielectric grease directly to the wire, then insert the wire into the bottom holes of the stem to coat the contact points. Add a second pass slightly past the 90-degree bend and snap it into place. Wipe excess so grease doesn’t attract dust.
If you’ve been researching unrelated tools like mighty hoops for textile work, keep in mind this is a different arena: here, grease placement and wire seating—not fabric tension—determine your success.
The Band-Aid Mod Explained
Preparing Your PCB Cut a fabric band-aid: remove the rounded edge, then slice rectangular strips long enough to fill the stabilizer resting areas on the PCB. Peel and apply each strip so it covers the entire footprint where the stabilizer housing will contact the board. Keep it flat—no wrinkles.
Applying and Lubing the Band-Aid Use an earwax picker to spread dielectric grease thinly over each applied strip. Aim for “just enough” so the fabric slightly darkens, but don’t leave puddles. The goal is a cushioned, low-friction interface that softens bottom-out and reduces chatter.
Watch out Use only fabric band-aids. The video specifically calls for fabric because it cushions well and adheres without excessive bulk.
Quick check Run a fingertip over each strip. It should feel uniformly slick, not wet or goopy. If it’s shiny with standing grease, dab away the excess.
If you’re browsing other maker tools and keep seeing phrases like embroidery machine hoops, that’s a different craft. In this build, the only “hoop” that matters is the stabilizer wire snapping securely into place.
Final Assembly and Sound Test
Seat the Stabilizers With the housings, stems, and wires fully modded, place each stabilizer onto the PCB, aligning over the greased band-aid strips. Ensure every unit sits flat and snaps in correctly.
What to Expect: Before and After Nathan demonstrates two checkpoints: first, a before/after comparison of unlubed/unclipped vs. lubed-and-clipped; second, the fully finished result after the band-aid mod. You should hear a clear reduction in rattle after lubing and clipping, and then a more refined, damped sound once the band-aid mod is added.
From the bench If you don’t hear a change after clipping and lubing, inspect the wire seating. The dielectric grease needs to coat the contact interface inside the stem. Reseat, reapply where needed, and test again.
Pro tip Do quick spacebar taps at each stage (unmodded, clipped+lubed, final). These A/B tests help isolate which step made the biggest difference—and catch mistakes early.
Troubleshooting and FAQs
- I still hear ticking after lubing.
• Revisit the wire bends: apply a second coating slightly past the 90-degree bend as shown in the video, and ensure the wire is fully snapped into the bottom holes. • Wipe any excess and test again. If the tick is consistent on one side, re-seat that side.
- The stabilizer feels sluggish.
• You likely over-applied Teflon grease to the housing or stem. Wipe away the excess with a tissue and cycle the stem a few times.
- Do I need the band-aid mod?
• The video shows a clear improvement with the mod. It adds cushion where the housing meets the PCB and, with a thin dielectric coat, helps tame residual chatter.
- What about other switch types?
• The video notes that for Topre and Alps, clipping may not apply, but the general lubing rule still does: Teflon where plastic meets plastic; dielectric where metal meets plastic.
If you’ve been curious about unrelated magnetic accessories like magnetic embroidery hoops or a magnetic frame for embroidery machine, remember: for keyboards, stability comes from precise clipping and targeted lubrication—not magnetic clamping.
Pro Tips and Maintenance
General Lubing Rules for Other Switches Nathan’s rule of thumb is straightforward and broadly applicable: whenever plastic touches plastic, use Teflon grease; whenever plastic meets metal, use dielectric grease. Keep applications thin to moderate—more is not better.
When to Re-lube There’s no fixed interval specified in the video. Practically, re-lube only if you notice rattle or increased friction returning. A well-executed mod, especially with the band-aid layer, should last a long time before it needs attention.
Watch out Avoid contaminating your keycaps or PCB with excess grease. Work slowly, wipe as you go, and keep a clean tissue on hand.
Quick check With the board unpowered, press stabilized keys (spacebar, enter, shift) gently and listen for scrape, tick, or spring ping. If silent, do a firmer press to confirm the cushioning is working as intended.
If you stumbled in while shopping for sewing tools like snap hoop monster or wondering about the “best” embroidery machine for beginners, you’re in the wrong aisle of the maker world—no harm done. For this build, your MVPs are a wire cutter, Teflon grease, dielectric grease, and fabric band-aids.
Step Index and Timing (from the video)
- Tools overview: 00:39
- Disassembly: 01:32
- Clipping: 01:46
- Teflon grease—housing & stem: 02:09–02:32
- Reassembly orientation: 02:33–03:03
- Dielectric grease—wire and seating: 03:04–04:23
- Sound test (clipped + lubed vs. stock): 04:46–05:08
- Band-aid cut & place: 05:09–05:56
- Band-aid lube: 05:57–06:24
- Install and final test: 06:33–07:06
Materials and Brands Shown
- Stabilizers: GMK screw-in stabilizers (for MX style boards)
- Band-aids: fabric type
- Greases: Teflon grease for plastic-on-plastic; dielectric grease for metal-on-plastic
- Tools: wire cutter, scissors, earwax picker
Safety and Cleanliness
- Use only fabric band-aids on the PCB.
- Keep applications thin, wipe excess with a tissue, and verify smooth movement after each step.
Where Builders Go Wrong (and How to Avoid It)
- Over-greasing: leads to sluggish feel. Fix by wiping and cycling the stem.
- Under-greasing the wire: persistent rattle. Fix with a second dielectric pass past the 90-degree bend and ensure a positive snap-in.
- Skipping the band-aid mod: you’ll likely miss out on the final layer of dampening the video demonstrates.
Closing Sound Check Nathan’s final A/B makes the improvement obvious: unlubed vs. fully modded (clipped, lubed, band-aid). Aim for rattle-free, cushioned bottom-outs and a smoother, more refined sound signature.
If the term magnetic embroidery hoops uk crossed your search history today, consider this a palate cleanser: no magnets here—just precision cuts, smart grease placement, and fabric cushion doing the quiet work.