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Watch the video: “How to Switch Hoop Arms on a Bravo X Embroidery Machine” by NeverDenyMe
If your Bravo X just met its first extra-large hoop and refused to click in, you’re in the right place. In this hands-on walkthrough, Nate from NeverDenyMe shows exactly how to reposition the arm brackets and solve a subtle hoop tension quirk that keeps the big frame from seating.
What you’ll learn
- How to identify the four standard hoops that came with a Bravo X and what their labels actually mean in practice.
- The precise bracket screws to loosen with a 6mm Allen wrench—plus how far to turn.
- How to shift each arm from the inner to the outer slots without misorienting the bracket.
- The fix that finally lets the 44×30 cm hoop slide in and click.
Introduction to NeverDenyMe and Bravo X Embroidery Nate opens with a friendly welcome at the Bravo X, then gets straight to the reason you’re here: swapping hoop arms so the machine can accept larger frames as your projects scale up. He first confirms that the smaller hoops fit as-is, then demonstrates why the large hoop won’t—yet.
Pro tip Label your hoops where you can see them while they’re installed. Nate added a sticker to the 90mm hoop up top so he doesn’t have to crouch to read the size on the back. It’s a small habit that speeds up production.
The Importance of Hoop Size Flexibility As you grow from simple patches to full front graphics, you’ll quickly outpace a small embroidery field. The bigger the hoop, the fewer re-hoops on panel work, quilts, and oversized motifs. But that efficiency only happens if the machine arms are set to the correct width for the hoop you’re using. embroidery frame
Understanding Your Bravo X Hoops Nate lays out the four standard hoops that ship with the machine. They look nearly identical, but the labels differ—and so does the usable field.
Standard Hoop Sizes and Their Peculiarities He spotlights a Size 3 (120mm) hoop and another labeled as Size 1, which is 90mm (about 3.5 inches). While the 90mm hoop is labeled by its outer dimension, the embroidery area inside is smaller; Nate notes his real stitchable space was closer to roughly 2.20 inches. That difference matters when you center designs and set margins around clamps or edges.
If you identify your hoops by feel, consider adding a small visible label where the operator naturally looks during setup—exactly what Nate did for the 90mm hoop. It’s a repeatable way to cut the mental friction of flipping frames around mid-run.
The smaller hoops slide right into the stock arm spacing and click solidly. That mechanical “click” is your confirmation that each side is fully seated.
The Challenge of the Large Hoop Next up is the big frame: 44×30 cm (about 11×17 inches). It’s an exciting jump for larger placements, but it won’t fit the default arm spacing. Nate shows how it stops short—the frame is simply too wide for the current bracket positions.
By comparison, a smaller hoop glides in effortlessly, reinforcing that the problem is width, not a machine fault. That preview sets the stage for a quick bracket adjustment.
Watch out If a hoop resists at the arm rails, don’t force it. For the large hoop, the issue is bracket spacing—not a misaligned needle or a bent rail. Forcing can mar the hoop edges and destabilize how it seats.
Step-by-Step Guide to Changing Hoop Arms Tools You’ll Need: The 6mm Allen Wrench Down at the arm brackets you’ll find two screws per side—four total. These are the fasteners that determine arm width. You’ll need the largest Allen key in the Bravo X operator’s kit: the 6mm wrench. Confirm the fit in the screw head before you turn.
Quick check Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty still rules. Nate turns each screw just about a half turn to free the bracket without detaching the hardware or stressing the threads.
Loosening and Repositioning the Arm Brackets Work one side at a time. Loosen both screws just enough that the bracket slides off its inner mounting holes. Keep track of orientation: the raised edge of the bar must face up.
With the first bracket off, you’ll see multiple slots. Move from the inner pair to the outer pair to widen the stance. Seat the bracket and finger-tighten its screws so it holds position but still allows micro-adjustment.
Repeat on the opposite side. The brackets are side-specific; do not swap them left/right or flip them over. Once both brackets are sitting in the outer slots, finger-tighten both sides so you can test a hoop fit before final torque.
Watch out The machine’s screws are designed to fail before the machine does. That’s a safety feature—but it also means overtightening can shear them. Keep your wrenching measured, and save “snug” for after the hoop test.
The Critical Hoop Adjustment for Larger Projects With the arms now widened, you might expect the large hoop to slide in—and Nate shows why it still might not. On the large frame, if the inner ring is pressed down so it extends below the outer ring, the hoop can’t clamp into the arms. That extended lip collides with the rails.
On smaller hoops, a slight inner-ring extension doesn’t cause trouble because the machine gives you longer arm extensions that easily clear. You’ll see it on the smaller frames: a little extra ring showing, but still a clean, confident click.
For the 44×30 cm hoop, the bottom edges of the inner and outer rings must be perfectly flush. If you overtighten while hooping and push the inner ring too far, the hoop becomes effectively “too tall” at the clamping edge, and the machine can’t seat it.
Final Checks and Ready for Embroidery Ensuring a Secure Fit Hoop your fabric on a flat table so the large hoop’s bottom edges are aligned and flush. With the ring edges even, slide the hoop into the widened arms. You’re listening for that clear click on both sides. If it glides in and out smoothly, you’re there.
Now, fully snug the arm bracket screws. You want secure, not strained. Nate notes that while small hoops can be tensioned by hand, larger materials may need a screwdriver to tighten the hoop itself—use steady, incremental turns. If the hoop clicks and slides with confidence, you’ve nailed the setup.
Quick check
- Do you hear a positive click when inserting the large hoop?
- Can you remove and reinsert the hoop without binding?
- Are the bracket screws snug—but not overtight? If yes, you’re ready to stitch.
From the comments A viewer shared that they’d owned their machine for a year and only just tried the large hoop; Nate’s explanation finally made it click. Another person planning a purchase asked for setup help, and the creator noted that his vendor delivered and set up his machine on site. If you’re new, it’s worth asking your supplier about delivery and setup services.
Pro Tips for Seamless Hoop Swaps
- Label visibility: Put size markers where you can see them while the hoop is on the arms.
- Test before torque: Finger-tighten, test-fit the hoop, then snug the screws.
- Side awareness: Brackets are not interchangeable; raised bar faces up.
- Flush is king: On large frames, inner/outer rings must be flush at the bottom edge.
- Gentle force: The screws are made to fail before major damage—overtightening wastes spares.
Troubleshooting: When the Large Hoop Still Won’t Seat
- Symptom: It starts to slide but stops short.
Likely cause: Inner ring is extended past the outer ring; bottom isn’t flush. Fix: Re-hoop on a flat surface. Loosen just enough to let the inner ring float, then reset to flush and retighten.
- Symptom: No click, plus resistance on both rails.
Likely cause: Brackets remain in the inner slots. Fix: Reposition both brackets to the outer slots; finger-tighten, test, then snug.
- Symptom: Hoop clicks, but removal binds.
Likely cause: One bracket slightly skewed. Fix: Back off a quarter turn, re-seat the hoop fully, then snug the screws evenly.
Context for New Owners If you’re stepping up to bigger projects, this bracket swap is the gateway to large-format placements. It doesn’t require extra accessories—just the 6mm Allen wrench in your kit, patience, and careful alignment. If you’re completely new to multi-needle workflows, practice with a medium hoop first so you get the feel of that positive click before going big. embroidery machine for beginners
Gear Notes (What’s Specified vs. Not)
- Specified in the video: 6mm Allen wrench from the operator’s kit; two screws per side; large hoop is 44×30 cm (~11×17 in); safety note about overtightening.
- Not specified: Exact vendor, full list of tools in the kit, maximum hoop size the Bravo X can accept beyond 44×30 cm.
- Observed: On smaller hoops, a minor inner-ring extension is tolerated; on the large hoop, it prevents seating.
Why the “Flush Bottom Edge” Matters The Bravo X arms capture the hoop at a consistent datum. When the hoop’s bottom edge is uniform, the rails meet cleanly and the latch engages. If the inner ring protrudes below the outer ring, you’ve effectively increased hoop depth at the clamping edge, pushing metal into the space the machine needs to latch. That’s why hooping on a firm table—where you can see and feel that edge flush—is so effective before you re-test the fit. magnetic embroidery hoops
Operator Safety and Screw Care
- Start with short turns: A half turn is often enough to free the bracket.
- Keep threads clean: If you ever remove screws fully, keep them away from lint and stabilizer dust.
- Respect the fail-safe: These screws are designed to break before the machine. That’s protection, not a challenge—snug, don’t crank.
Workspace Habits That Help
- Clear the bed: Remove stray tools or clips from the arm area before you test-fit any hoop.
- Inspect the hoop edge: Nicks and burrs can snag the rails; a quick visual sweep saves time.
- Confirm both clicks: One side seating isn’t enough; ensure both rails are engaged before stitching.
Common Misconceptions
- “If small hoops fit, a large one will too.” Not unless the arms are widened to the outer slots.
- “Tighter is always better.” Not with bracket screws. Over-tightening adds risk and no stability.
- “The large hoop is defective if it won’t seat.” In Nate’s demo, the hoop was fine; the inner ring just needed to be flush.
When to Reach Out If you repositioned both brackets, confirmed orientation (raised bar up), achieved a flush bottom edge, and still can’t get a click, pause. Don’t force. Capture a photo of your bracket position and hoop edge and contact your dealer or a qualified technician. Some suppliers deliver and set up machines and may offer follow-up support.
A Note on Other Gear You Might Be Researching If you’re comparing systems or reading across forums, you’ll see all kinds of frame and clamp references. Keep your technique brand-agnostic: accurate hooping, proper arm width, and a flush bottom edge are universally helpful, even if you later explore different frame technologies. machine embroidery hoops
Industry Cross-References (To Translate What You’re Reading Elsewhere)
- If you see conversations about “magnetic” frames, the big idea is consistent clamping pressure with faster loading. That concept doesn’t change the Bravo X bracket steps here; it’s just another way to secure fabric before it reaches the machine.
- If you come across discussions centered on another popular platform, remember the fundamentals—clear rails, flush hoop bottoms, and correct arm spacing—carry over between ecosystems. magnetic hoop
Working Smart Between Different Setups Some operators switch between multiple machines or brand ecosystems in the same studio. While the hardware differs, the mindset does not: test-fit before final torque, listen for the click, and watch the ring edge. If you’re juggling multiple rigs, keep a simple card at your workstation with your go-to checks: arm slot position, hoop ring flush, and final screw snug. brother embroidery machine
Speed vs. Precision It’s tempting to hurry the swap once you’ve done it a few times. Resist the urge to skip the test-fit before tightening. That one step prevents binding, reduces wear on the rails, and preserves the clean click you rely on for repeatable registration. mighty hoop
Scaling Up Your Projects Once the large hoop clicks in reliably, you’ll cut re-hoops and unlock bigger compositions. Plan your stabilizer support and pathing based on the smaller usable area within each labeled hoop size. Nate’s callout about the 90mm hoop’s smaller stitch field is a perfect reminder to double-check design boundaries in your software before pressing start. magnetic embroidery hoops
Glossary (As Used Here)
- Arm brackets: The left/right assemblies the hoop slides into; each has two screws to set width.
- Inner/outer ring: The two parts of a traditional hoop; “flush bottom” means their lower edges are level.
- Click: The audible/ tactile confirmation that the hoop is fully seated on both sides.
Wrap-Up In Nate’s demonstration, success came from two moves: shifting both arm brackets from the inner to the outer slots, and ensuring the large hoop’s inner and outer rings were flush on the bottom edge before insertion. With those done, the 44×30 cm frame slid in “like butter” and clicked solidly—ready for your next big stitch-out. machine embroidery hoops