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Watch the video: “Everything You Need to Know About Zippers” by Faren Tami
If you’ve ever stood in front of a notions wall wondering which zipper to buy, this is your crash course. In just a few focused minutes, fashion guru Faren breaks down how to measure, choose, and care for zippers—so your garments, bags, and home projects zip like a dream.
What you’ll learn
- How to measure zipper gauge so you always match what a pattern calls for
- The correct way to measure zipper length (and why tape length can mislead you)
- When to choose open-end vs. closed-end, and metal vs. molded plastic vs. coil
- How invisible zippers work and where they shine
- A quick beeswax trick to smooth a sticky pull
Introduction to Zippers Faren opens in her fashion studio, sharing a table of zipper types you’ll meet in everyday sewing—from jeans-ready metal to garment-friendly invisible. It’s a concise, practical tour you can apply to any project even if you’re new to the craft.
The Zipper Queen A fun note: she was nicknamed the “zipper queen” at a sewing supply store. That confidence shows—every explanation is tactile and to the point, especially if you like to feel the difference between zipper types at the counter.
Your Fashion Guru The video is approachable and beginner-friendly. You won’t need advanced terminology beyond basics like “teeth,” “tape,” and “stop.” By the end, you’ll know exactly what to grab for your next jacket, skirt, or cushion project. If you’re working on a multi-purpose setup such as a sewing and embroidery machine, you’ll appreciate how these zipper fundamentals carry over to garment construction alongside embellishment work.
Measuring Your Zippers
Zipper Gauge Demystified Gauge is the size of the teeth measured across their width. You’ll hear numbers like 3, 5, or 10 gauge; Faren demonstrates a 5 mm example so you can see what that looks like in real life. Place your measuring tape across the teeth to find the width—this number is your gauge.
Quick check
- Measure across the full width of the teeth (not the tape) for an accurate gauge.
- Some zipper heads have the gauge number stamped on the back or top—handy when you’re matching a replacement.
From the pattern to the shop Patterns often specify a gauge (for example, a “#3 coil zipper”). If your pattern calls out gauge, confirm it against your zipper head stamp or your own measurement. If you’re new to machine stitching and toggling between utility techniques and creative add-ons on an embroidery sewing machine, it’s still the same rule: gauge is teeth width, period.
Finding the Right Length Length is where many makers get tripped up. You do not measure the whole tape. You measure only the functioning teeth—from the bottom stop up to the top where it meets the slider. This “teeth-only” method ensures your zipper actually fits the opening once installed.
Watch out If you include the extra tape at either end, you’ll overestimate the length and come home with a zipper that’s too long where it counts.
Types of Zippers Explained
Open-End vs. Closed-End There are two structural families—and you’ll choose between them based on the project’s function.
- Open-end (also called separating): The two sides come apart; think jackets and outer layers.
- Closed-end: The zipper stops at the bottom; think skirts, pants, bags, and pillows.
Faren shows them side-by-side so you can spot the hardware difference quickly.
Pro tip When a pattern says “separating zipper,” it means open-end.
Metal vs. Molded Plastic Metal zippers can be coated or uncoated. Uncoated feels dry and can be sticky; coated feels smoother and glides more easily. If your pull resists or scrapes, there’s a good chance it’s uncoated—keep reading for a simple fix.
To illustrate the stickiness, Faren demonstrates the tug you may feel on an uncoated zipper—exactly the sensation that can cause jams or missed teeth over time.
Molded plastic looks robust and is often a go-to for outerwear. Even though it can look metal at a glance, it’s actually plastic with chunky molded teeth that hold up well on coats and gear.
Coiled Zippers Coiled zippers (nylon or plastic) have a distinctive, braid-like look to the teeth. They are extremely versatile and often labeled “all-purpose,” which tracks with Faren’s guidance. You’ll see coiled options in both closed-end and open-end formats so you can match function to project.
If you’re just getting started in textiles and toggling between basic construction and decorative stitching, zipper choices can feel daunting. Keep it simple: coiled is a safe, flexible choice while you build skills, whether you sew on a standard machine or you’re learning on an embroidery machine for beginners.
Invisible Zippers An invisible zipper hides the coil on the back. When installed correctly, you stitch very close to the rolled-out coil, and the seam looks continuous from the front. They are excellent in dresses, skirts, and evening wear where you want the fabric to take center stage.
Novelty & Double-Ended Faren shows a novelty style with heavy-duty pulls and a coil on the back—functionally similar to an invisible placement but built for outerwear. She also shows an open-ended invisible zipper and strongly advises against it; in her experience, they tend to break easily. Double-ended heads can also be finicky to attach.
Zipper Care & Troubleshooting
Fixing Sticky Zippers with Beeswax If your metal zipper feels dry, squeaky, or sticky, it’s likely uncoated. A quick, low-tech fix: run a block of beeswax down both sides of the teeth, then test the pull. You should notice smoother motion and less noise immediately.
Quick check
- Apply a light coat along both sides of the teeth.
- Zip up and down a few times to work in the wax.
- If it still catches, reapply lightly—more is not always better.
Watch out Be mindful of residue near light-colored delicate fabrics; test on a scrap first if you’re concerned.
Zipper Tape Materials
Polyester vs. Cotton Tapes Zipper tape—the woven material that holds the teeth—comes in synthetic (polyester) and cotton. Polyester is widely used. Cotton tapes can be dyed and are commonly found on denim, often dyed with a batch to match the jeans. The video notes that cotton tape options can be pricier today, which is worth remembering when you shop.
From the comments No public Q&A appeared alongside the video at the time of writing, but Faren’s on-camera guidance addresses common questions about measuring and choosing zippers.
Smart Zipper Shopping
Zippers by the Meter Coil zippers can be purchased by the meter (or yard) on a roll—perfect for long runs like duvets and upholstery. You cut what you need and add stops yourself. Faren mentions that stop-making is a separate, future segment, so consider subscribing if you want that walkthrough.
Why Longer is Better When in doubt, buy longer. You can always shorten a zipper to fit your pattern later; the reverse isn’t possible. This is a simple rule that prevents mid-project frustration.
Related search paths (outside the video’s scope) While Faren’s video focuses squarely on zipper fundamentals, many sewists also cross-shop general equipment and accessories. If you’re streamlining your setup list for future projects, you might see terms like magnetic embroidery hoop pop up in your research. That’s normal—just keep zipper specs separate from accessory research so you don’t mix requirements.
Similarly, when browsing notions online you’ll often encounter broader accessory categories. Keep your zipper criteria handy (gauge, length, open vs. closed) as you scroll, even if listings also mention things like magnetic embroidery hoops.
If your studio combines garment construction with occasional embellishment, it’s fine to maintain separate checklists—zippers on one, accessories on another. That way a zipper order doesn’t get delayed by a decision about an embroidery frame.
Planning ahead also means pacing your purchases. It can be helpful to schedule hardware buys right before you cut a garment. Accessories and tools—whether that’s a press, a ruler, or even something completely separate like magnetic holders—can wait until after you’ve confirmed zipper gauge and length for the pattern at hand.
And if you’re building skills across disciplines, it’s okay to compartmentalize learning goals. Reserve one session for zipper fundamentals and another for your combined-stitch workflow on a sewing and embroidery machine. That focus pays off in cleaner seams and fewer redos.
Finally, if your shopping cart often mixes creative tools with garment hardware, consider a two-cart habit. Park unrelated items (from stabilizers to accessory frames) in a separate list so you don’t lose track of the zipper spec your pattern demands—even if a tempting listing mentions an embroidery machine for beginners.
Field guide: choose by project - Jackets, hoodies, and outerwear: open-end (separating) zippers; molded plastic is a sturdy, common pick.
- Skirts, pants, dresses: closed-end or invisible depending on the design; invisible shines where you want a clean seam.
- Bags and cushions: closed-end zippers; coiled options are versatile.
- Extra-long runs (duvets, upholstery): coil by the meter; cut to length and add stops later.
Troubleshooting in seconds - Pull feels sticky: likely uncoated metal. Light beeswax along the teeth can help.
- Pattern calls for “#5 coil” and your stash is mystery stock: measure teeth width and check the stamped number on the slider.
- Zipper feels too short: if you can’t reposition the opening, replace with a longer one—you can always shorten; you can’t stretch length.
- Open-ended invisible zipper seems appealing for a jacket: Faren recommends skipping it; in her experience, they tend to break.
Workflow you can trust 1) Identify function (open-end for separating, closed-end for fixed bottom).
2) Pick construction (coiled vs. molded plastic vs. metal, considering feel and purpose).
3) Confirm gauge and length before you cut fabric.
4) Test the pull; if sticky and uncoated, apply beeswax and re-test.
5) Install with attention to seam allowances and stops; for invisible, sew close to the rolled-out coil for a seamless finish.
Case notes from the studio - Uncoated metal can lose teeth if it catches repeatedly; prevention is easier than repair—keep it gliding smoothly.
- Cotton tape can be dyed to match denim batches; set expectations on cost and sourcing.
- Coil versatility means you’ll rarely be “wrong” choosing it for everyday projects.
- Double-ended heads can be fiddly; practice on scrap before committing to a garment.
Closing stitch Zippers become simple once you separate function (open vs. closed), structure (metal, molded plastic, coil), and sizing (gauge and length). With those three decisions made, the rest is practice—and maybe a little beeswax. Keep this guide nearby the next time your pattern calls for a specific gauge, or you’re debating invisible vs. standard for a skirt. Your seams—and sanity—will thank you.