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Watch the video: How to Back an Embroidery Hoop (Traditional Method) by i heart stitch art
You finished your last stitch, popped the fabric taut in the hoop, and now the back is…a tangle. Good news: in just a few easy steps, you can tidy the back so your hoop art looks as polished on the reverse as it does on the front. This walk-through follows the classic running-stitch method from the video, plus an optional felt cover for an ultra-clean finish.
What you’ll learn
- How much fabric to trim and why it matters
- A simple double-pass running stitch that cinches the back neatly
- How to knot and trim so the backing stays secure
- Optional: tracing, cutting, and stitching on a felt cover for a fully concealed reverse
Why Back Your Embroidery Hoop? If you plan to hang your hoop art, backing keeps the reverse tidy, protects the threads, and gives a finished, professional look. It’s also reassuring to know that knots and tails won’t snag on the wall or collect dust.
Ready for Display A neat back helps your hoop sit flush and look intentional when hung. It also contains loose thread tails so nothing peeks out.
Achieve a Polished Look Even the traditional cinched fabric alone creates a clean halo on the reverse. Adding felt is optional if you want to hide everything completely.
Protect Your Stitches A covered back helps prevent friction on thread tails over time. If you choose felt, it conceals mechanics like gathers and knots.
Pro tip If you’re gifting the hoop, the felt finish is a small effort that makes a big impact.
Method 1: The Traditional Running Stitch Backing This foundational technique uses basic supplies you already have—your hoop, scissors, and any leftover thread. It’s quick, forgiving, and doesn’t require precision-perfect stitches.
Trimming Your Fabric Start by trimming the excess fabric around the hoop, leaving roughly an inch beyond the hoop’s edge. It doesn’t have to be a perfect circle—focus on keeping a consistent width all the way around. The video emphasizes not trimming too close; you want enough fabric to gather comfortably.
Quick check Do you still have an even “halo” of fabric after trimming? If yes, you’re set for easy gathering.
Watch out Trimming too close makes it hard to cinch. If that happens, the video suggests switching methods or, if feasible, moving to a slightly smaller hoop.
The Double Running Stitch Thread a needle with any embroidery floss you have on hand. Tie a knot. Begin at the top if that’s comfortable—starting point isn’t critical. Work a simple running stitch around the trimmed edge using large, relaxed stitches. They don’t need to be perfectly even—the gathering will do the beautifying.
As you sew, the fabric will start to draw in when you pull the thread. Don’t fully tighten yet; stop about halfway around and leave this thread loose.
Now re-thread and start a second pass next to your original starting point, traveling the opposite way to complete the circle. This gives you two free thread tails that meet near the bottom. The two-thread approach makes tightening smoother and more controlled, as a commenter noted appreciatively.
From the comments
- One viewer loved the two-thread method, calling it “genius,” because it tightens the back evenly.
- Another viewer asked about what fabric to use for finishing; the creator recommended felt (details below).
Securing Your Backing With both threads free, pull them together to cinch the fabric. Tighten as much as it will comfortably go—the fabric should sit snugly against the inner hoop. Then tie a simple knot to secure. Trim the thread, but don’t cut too close to the knot to avoid slippage.
Pro tip Test the tension: Hold the hoop by the screw and gently tap the back. If you see slack folds opening, snug the threads a touch more before tying.
Watch out If you under-tighten, the gathers can loosen with handling. If you over-trimmed earlier, you may not be able to cinch well—at that point, consider switching to the optional felt cover for a cleaner look.
Method 2: Adding a Felt Backing for Extra Neatness (Optional) If you prefer a fully concealed reverse, a felt circle makes the back look crisp and hides all gathers and knots. The tutorial shows a straightforward hand-sewn approach.
Preparing Your Felt Piece Trace the inner ring of your hoop onto a sheet of craft felt—use the inner ring rather than the outer to ensure your circle isn’t oversized. Cut the felt carefully to keep the edge smooth. The video demonstrates tracing with a pen and trimming with small scissors.
Quick check Place the felt circle on the back: Does it cover the gathers without overhanging the hoop? If yes, you’ve got the sizing right.
Attaching the Felt Center the felt on the gathered back. Thread a needle with regular sewing thread or embroidery floss—either works—and tie a knot. The creator tucks the knot so it’s hidden between layers.
Now work a simple stitch around the felt’s perimeter, catching the felt and just the backing fabric. Keep stitches neat and reasonably even, but don’t worry about perfection. The key is to avoid piercing through to the front of your embroidery. If helpful, you can add a few pins to hold the felt in place, especially if your backing fabric is slippery.
As you go, gently smooth the felt to minimize wrinkling. Rounding corners on a circle naturally invites a little easing; just coax the felt flat with your fingers.
When you near the end, anchor your thread with a couple of loops and trim the tail. The result: a completely covered, tidy backside with no raw edges in sight.
From the comments Several viewers appreciated the ultra-neat look of the felt backing. The creator echoed this, noting it “covers up all the mechanics.”
Final Touches Give the felt a last smooth with your palm. If a tiny pucker appears, massage it outward and take one extra securing stitch if needed.
Essential Tools and Materials
- Scissors: For trimming fabric and felt
- Needle: Any hand-sewing needle you’re comfortable using
- Thread: Leftover embroidery floss for the running stitches; regular sewing thread or floss for attaching felt
- Felt (optional): Craft felt sheets from fabric or craft stores
- Pen (for felt): To trace the inner ring
- Hoop: Your stitched piece mounted in a hoop
Quick check
- Before stitching: About an inch of fabric extends beyond the hoop
- After the first pass: You’ve stopped halfway and left the thread loose
- After the second pass: Two thread tails meet at the bottom, ready to pull together
Tips for a Flawless Finish
- Keep stitch size relaxed: Larger running stitches make gathering easy and even.
- Mind your knot placement: Tuck knots between layers when attaching felt so they don’t show.
- Smooth as you stitch: Pause to press the felt flat; a tiny reposition can prevent ripples later.
- Don’t over-trim: You need enough fabric for the cinch. If you trimmed too close, consider the felt cover to regain a neat look.
- Keep to the back layer: When attaching felt, catch only the gathered backing fabric—not the front of your embroidery.
Watch out If your thread runs out mid-way, just anchor the end and start a fresh length. The video shows this in the felt step and suggests keeping knots discreet.
Your Finished Embroidery Art Step back and admire both sides. The classic cinch gives a clean, handcrafted finish; the optional felt makes it fully gallery-ready. Either way, your hoop is neat, secure, and display-ready.
From the comments
- Requests for more tutorials poured in—clearly, once you tidy the back, you’re ready for your next project.
- Viewers thanked the creator and called the process beautiful and simple.
A note on different hoop systems This tutorial works for hand embroidery already in a display hoop. If you also use specialized machine systems, you’ll find the finishing concept still applies once the piece comes out of the frame. For example, some readers use magnetic embroidery hoops for machine stitching and then mount the finished fabric in a wooden display hoop for backing. Others sew on multi-needle rigs but still finish by hand before gifting.
Choosing your path
- If you plan to re-hoop often (for ongoing machine designs), finish after you’re completely done with stitching.
- If you stitch on a machine and are new to finishing, this hand-sewn back is a simple, reliable method for display.
Toolbox crossovers (only if they apply to your workflow)
- Some machine embroiderers begin their journey with an embroidery machine for beginners, then finish hand-mounted hoops the way shown here.
- If you own a magnetic hoop or use systems like a snap hoop monster, the backing steps in this guide still come after stitching is complete and the fabric is in its final display hoop.
- You might hear about a mighty hoop or even browse shops that sell embroidery hoops uk; those choices affect how you stitch, not how you finish the back for display.
- Likewise, industrial users who stitch with magnetic embroidery frames still often present finished art in a standard hoop and use this same backing method.
Watch out Nothing in this guide changes the embroidered front—when attaching felt, take care to catch only the backing fabric so your front stays pristine.
From the comments: quick Q&A Q: Which cloth do you use for back finishing? A: Felt works really well and is easy to find at craft stores, according to the creator.
You’re done Whether you stop after the tidy cinch or add felt, your hoop now looks as intentional on the back as the front. Hang it, gift it, or save it as a reference for your next piece—your finishing game is officially upgraded.
