Install the Ricoma EM-1010 Extension Table Without Losing Screws (and Set It Up for Towels, Jackets, and Magnetic Hoops)

If you have ever stared at a box of “simple” machine accessories and thought, “I’m going to lose a screw inside the chassis and regret this,” you are not being dramatic—you are being experienced.

Installing the extension table on a professional multi-needle machine like the ricoma em 1010 embroidery machine is absolutely doable at home. However, it is one of those specific tasks where one tiny mistake (gravity taking a screw into a gap) can turn a 20-minute upgrade into a 4-hour maintenance nightmare.

This guide rebuilds the installation process into a fail-safe, repeatable workflow. We are adding the “old hand” habits—like gap blocking and tactile checks—that keep your machine safe and your sanity intact.

Why the Ricoma EM-1010 Extension Table Stops the “Heavy Item Drag” That Ruins Towels and Jackets

The extension table isn't just about aesthetics—it is about physics and friction management.

When you embroider heavy items (plush beach towels, heavy denim jackets, horse blankets), the weight of the project naturally pulls downward due to gravity. Without support, that "drag" creates three specific problems that ruin quality:

1. Micro-shifting: The weight tugs the hooped area out of plane. You won't see it while watching, but the final outline will look wavy or off-center.
2. Friction spikes: As the pantograph moves, the heavy fabric drags across the machine bed, causing the motors to work harder and occasionally slip registration.
3. Hoop strikes: If the garment isn't supported, it can bunch up and catch on the needle bar or presser foot.

A properly installed table creates a flat "runway" so the hoop and garment move as a single, fluid unit. That is why this upgrade is non-negotiable for anyone serious about doing jackets or towels.

Pro tip from the shop floor: Manufacturers often forget availability of gaps in their design. The gap between the machine arm and the base is where screws go to disappear. We will address how to seal that danger zone before we even pick up a screwdriver.

The “Hidden Prep” Before You Touch a Screw: Parts Check, Work Surface, and Gap Protection

Juana’s video demonstrates unboxing, but before you start, you need to stage your environment like a surgeon. Do not use the machine bed as a table for your tools.

What’s in the kit (Visual Inventory)

• The Table Top: Acrylic/white surface (usually covered in protective film).
• Support Brackets (2x): Metal bars with pins.
• Hexagonal Standoffs: Silver posts that replace the base screws.
• Flathead Screws: Small screws that go through the table top.
• Hidden Consumables (You need to provide these): Painter's tape or a stiff piece of paper (Essential for safety).

Prep Checklist (Do this BEFORE Step 1)

• Clear the zone: Move the machine to a well-lit area. Place a magnetic tray or small bowl nearby for hardware.
• Identify the targets: Locate the two Philips head screws on the side of the machine base that need removal.
• Tool check: Have your Phillips screwdriver and the metric Allen wrench set (specifically the 4mm or "fourth size") ready.
• The Safety Shield: Cut a piece of paper or grab a strip of painter's tape.
• Photo log: Take a quick photo of the machine base "before" state. If you get interrupted, you’ll know exactly how it looked originally.

Warning: Small screws + open machine chassis gaps = a high risk of dropping hardware into the electronics. You must physically block the gaps with painter’s tape or paper before you start loosening any screws.

The Clean Install: Ricoma EM-1010 Base Screws → Hex Standoffs → Brackets (Pins Up)

The golden rule here is to master one side completely before starting the other.

Step 1 — Remove the two base screws (Save them!)

• Use your Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two fasteners on the side of the base.
• Sensory Check: You should feel them break loose with a "snap," then turn easily.
• Crucial: Do not discard these screws. You will reuse them in Step 3 to attach the brackets.

Checkpoint: You should see two empty threaded holes on the side of the base.

Step 2 — Install the hexagonal standoffs (Finger-tight first)

• Take the silver hexagonal posts from your kit.
• Thread them into the empty holes by hand.
• Tightening: Twist them until they stop. You can give them a tiny quarter-turn with a wrench if you have one, but firm hand-tightness is usually sufficient.

Checkpoint: Both standoffs should sit straight (90 degrees to the machine) and feel solid like a rock—no wiggle.

Step 3 — Attach the metal support bracket (Pins MUST face UP)

Orientation is critical. The bracket has small metal pins welded to it—these pins hold the table. They must face upward.

• Align the bracket slots over the hexagonal standoffs.
• Reuse the original screws (from Step 1) to secure the bracket.

Watch out (The danger zone): In the reference video, the installer almost drops a screw because her long nails made handling difficult. This is a predictable risk.

• The Fix: Before you bring the screw near the hole, hold your piece of paper under the work area to catch anything that falls.

Checkpoint: The bracket is snug. The pins are pointing toward the ceiling.

The “Don’t Drop the Screw” Ritual: Painter’s Tape and Paper That Save Hours

This is the most valuable takeaway from the entire process. In the video, a screw does fall. In a professional shop, we don't rely on luck; we rely on barriers.

The Ritual:

1. Identify the gap between the machine chassis and the sewing arm.
2. Place a sheet of paper over that gap.
3. Tape the paper down so it doesn't slide.

If you drop a screw now, it hits the paper and slides onto your table. If you don't do this, it falls into the machine, potentially shorting a circuit board or jamming a motor. Carefulness is not a tool; tape is.

Mount the Ricoma Extension Table Top So It Sits Flush (and Doesn’t Snag Fabric)

Once both brackets are installed (repeat Steps 1-3 on the other side), it is time to marry the table to the machine.

Step 4 — Remove film and seat the table

• Peel the protective plastic film off the acrylic table. Static electricity might attract dust, so wipe it down if needed.
• Slide the table onto the sewing arm.
• Alignment: You are looking for the "click" feeling as the holes on the underside of the table drop onto the upward-facing pins of the brackets.

Checkpoint: The table should sit flat. If it rocks like a wobbly restaurant table, checking the seating on the pins.

Step 5 — Secure with flathead screws ( The "Fingernail Test")

• Locate the four small flathead screws in the kit.
• Insert them from the top into the bracket holes.
• Sensory Goal (Flush): Tighten them until the top of the screw is perfectly level with the table surface.

Why flush matters: If a screw head sticks up even 0.5mm, it becomes a snag point. Delicate fabrics like satin or performance wear will catch on it, causing runs in the fabric or halting the hoop movement.

Setup Checklist (Post-Install Verification)

• Bracket Check: Are the brackets tight? Do they wiggle?
• Seating Check: Is the table fully seated on all 4 pins?
• Clearance Check: Does the center cutout align with the sewing arm without rubbing?
• Snag Test: Close your eyes and run your fingertips over the four screw heads. If you feel a bump, tighten it more.
• De-rig: Remove your safety paper and tape.

Warning (Mechanical Safety): When sliding the table onto the pins, keep your fingers on the edges of the table, not underneath near the brackets. A slip here creates a painful pinch point between the metal bracket and the heavy acrylic.

When the Machine Arms Block the Rear Screws: The Ricoma EM-1010 Access Problem (and the Allen Wrench Fix)

Here is the reality check: The manual implies you can just screw everything in easily. In reality, the machine's sewing arms often block straight access to the rear bracket screws.

The Solution: You likely need to temporarily remove the interfering arm.

1. Grab your Allen wrench set (usually the 4th size).
2. Loosen the arm bolt and slide the arm assembly off.
3. Install your bracket screw.
4. Reattach the arm immediately.

Old-hand note: Do not fight the angle. If you try to drive a screw in at a 45-degree angle because the arm is in the way, you will strip the screw head. Taking 2 minutes to remove the arm saves 20 minutes of frustration.

The Clearance Test That Matters: Towels, Denim Jackets, and a Magnetic Hoop on the Extension Table

Juana demonstrates placing a large towel and a heavy denim jacket on the newly installed table. This visually proves the concept: the weight rests on the acrylic, not on the hoop.

She also places a "Mighty Hoop" on the table to check clearance. This is a critical pairing.

If you are running mighty hoops for ricoma em 1010 or similar industrial-style magnetic frames, the extension table is almost mandatory. These frames are heavier than plastic hoops, and when loaded with a heavy jacket, the combined weight requires the support of the table to prevent the pantograph from straining.

Decision Tree: Fabric Weight → Stabilizer Strategy → Hooping Method (So the Table Actually Pays Off)

The table supports the outside of the hoop. Stabilizer and hooping logic control the inside. Use this decision tree to ensure your new table setup delivers professional results.

Start Here: What is your project?

A) Heavy Beach Towel (Terry Cloth)

• The Risk: Loops poking through stitches; fabric dragging.
• Stabilizer: Use a Water Soluble Topper on top (to mat down loops) and a Tearaway backing.
• Hooping: Since towels are thick, standard hoops often pop open or leave "hoop burn."
• Solution: This is the prime use case for any magnetic embroidery hoop. The magnets hold the thick terry without crushing the fibers.

B) Denim Jacket (Rigid Woven)

• The Risk: Seams causing needle deflection; weight pulling the design off-center.
• Stabilizer: Cutaway (2.5oz or 3.0oz). Denim needs permanent support.
• Hooping: Wrestling rigid denim into a plastic hoop strains your wrists.
• Solution: Use the extension table to bear the jacket's weight. Use a magnetic frame to snap over thick seams instantly.

C) Performance Wear / Stretchy Polos

• The Risk: Puckering and distortion.
• Stabilizer: No-Show Mesh (Cutaway) + Fusible Interfacing if very stretchy.
• Hooping: Plastic hoops can stretch the fabric while tightening.
• Solution: Ensure the table surface is clean (no snags). Magnetic frames prevent "hoop stretch" by clamping straight down rather than pulling outward.

D) Production Runs (50+ Items)

• The Bottleneck: Hooping speed and fatigue.
• Solution: Pair your multi-needle machine with a commercial magnetic hoop. The decreased strain on your wrists allows you to run the machine longer with fewer breaks.

For home users transitioning to pro equipment, starting with high-quality magnetic hoops/frames for single-needle machines can solve the "hoop burn" issue on a smaller scale before upgrading the entire machine.

The “Why” Behind the Results: Hooping Physics, Drag, and Why Magnetic Frames Feel Easier on Heavy Items

Even though this guide focuses on the table, the table is just the foundation. The "house" you build on it relies on your hooping method.

1. Drag Coefficient

Heavy fabric hanging off the edge of a machine creates "drag." Your embroidery machine's X/Y motors have to fight this gravity. The extension table neutralizes gravity by supporting the weight, allowing the motors to utilize their power for precision, not lifting.

2. Clamping Consistency

Standard screw-tightened hoops rely on your hand strength, which varies throughout the day. By 4:00 PM, you might be tightening less than at 9:00 AM. Professional embroiderers often switch to a mighty hoop or similar magnetic embroidery hoops because the magnetic force is constant. It clamps with the exact same pressure at 9:00 AM and 5:00 PM, ensuring consistent registration on every standard job.

3. Ergonomic longevity

If you plan to embroider for profit, you must protect your hands. The extension table reduces the need to "lift and hold" the garment during hooping. Combined with magnetic frames, this setup minimizes Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) risks.

Warning (Magnet Safety): Industrial magnetic hoops are incredibly powerful. They can pinch skin severely if you get caught between the rings.
* Do not place fingers between the top and bottom frames.
* Do not place near pacemakers (maintain at least 6-12 inches distance).
* Do not rest them on your laptop or credit cards.

Troubleshooting the Ricoma EM-1010 Extension Table Install: Symptoms → Causes → Fixes

If something feels "off" after installation, consult this diagnostic table.

Operation: How to Actually Use the Table for Towels and Jackets (So It’s Not Just a Pretty Add-On)

Now that the table is installed, you must change how you load the machine.

1. Staging: Lay the bulk of the excessive fabric (the rest of the towel or jacket) onto the table before you clip the hoop into the pantograph.
2. The "Sweep" Check: Before hitting start, manually move the hoop to the four corners of your design trace. Watch the fabric on the table. Does a zipper dangle catch on the table edge? Does a thick fold get stuck under the embroidery arm?
3. Hooping consistency: If you are doing volume, consider a hooping station for embroidery to ensure every logo is placed in the exact same spot on the garment. The table ensures the machine can sew it; the station ensures you put it in the right place.

Operation Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Support: Is the heavy part of the garment fully resting on the table?
• Clearance: Did you run a trace to ensure zippers/buttons don't hit the new table surface?
• Cleanliness: Is the table surface free of tape, spare screws, or scissors?
• Stability: Does the table feel solid under the weight of the garment?

The Upgrade Path After You Install the Table: Faster Hooping, Cleaner Results, and Real Production Thinking

Juana’s final shot—the table installed, a magnetic hoop snapped in place—is the picture of a scalable embroidery business.

The extension table is Level 1 of your production upgrade. It solves the physics of drag. Level 2 is upgrading your tooling. If you are still fighting with hoop burn or spending 5 minutes hooping a single item, looking into magnetic frames (compatible with your machine) is the logical next step to increase your hourly output. Level 3 is capacity. When you are turning away orders because your single machine can't keep up with the speed provided by your table and magnetic hoops, that is when you investigate a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine to run alongside your current setup.

Master the table installation first. Let the stability it provides give you the confidence to take on those high-profit, heavy items like jackets and blankets. And remember: Check your gaps, and use the tape.

FAQ

• Q: What hidden prep items are required to install a Ricoma EM-1010 extension table without dropping screws into the machine chassis?
  A: Use a physical gap barrier before loosening any base screw—paper plus painter’s tape prevents the “lost screw inside the machine” nightmare.
  • Clear the work area and place a magnetic tray/small bowl nearby for hardware.
  • Block the gap between the machine chassis and sewing arm using a sheet of paper, then tape it down so it cannot slide.
  • Stage tools before starting: Phillips screwdriver and a metric Allen wrench set (the commonly used “4th size” is referenced).
  • Success check: A dropped screw lands on the paper and slides out onto the table, not into the machine.
  • If it still fails: Do not power on the machine; use a magnetic telescoping wand to retrieve the screw.
• Q: How do I confirm the Ricoma EM-1010 hexagonal standoffs are installed correctly before mounting the extension table brackets?
  A: Install the hex standoffs finger-tight first, then verify they sit straight and feel rock-solid with no wiggle.
  • Thread both hexagonal standoffs into the newly opened threaded holes by hand until they stop.
  • Give only a small additional snug turn if needed (avoid forcing).
  • Success check: Each standoff sits at 90 degrees to the machine base and does not wobble when lightly pushed.
  • If it still fails: Remove and re-thread by hand to prevent cross-threading, then re-check alignment.
• Q: What is the correct orientation for the Ricoma EM-1010 extension table support brackets, and what happens if the pins face the wrong way?
  A: The bracket pins must face UP, because the table top seats onto those upward-facing pins.
  • Align the bracket slots over the installed hex standoffs.
  • Reuse the original base screws to secure the bracket snugly.
  • Success check: The bracket feels tight and the pins clearly point toward the ceiling, ready to locate into the table underside.
  • If it still fails: Stop and re-orient the bracket—do not “make it work” by forcing the table onto sideways/downward pins.
• Q: How do I stop fabric snagging on a Ricoma EM-1010 extension table after installation?
  A: Make every flathead screw perfectly flush using the fingernail test—any raised screw head can snag satin or performance fabrics.
  • Tighten the four flathead screws gradually until the screw heads sit level with the acrylic surface.
  • Run a fingertip/fingernail across each screw head to detect even a small bump.
  • Success check: Fingers glide over all four screw heads with zero catch points.
  • If it still fails: Loosen and re-seat the table on the pins, then tighten screws again evenly.
• Q: Why does a Ricoma EM-1010 extension table click or rattle during stitching, and how do I fix it?
  A: Clicking/rattling usually means the table is not fully seated on all four pins—press down and re-check bracket tightness.
  • Press down firmly on all four corners of the extension table to fully seat it onto the bracket pins.
  • Re-check that the brackets are snug and not wiggling.
  • Success check: The table sits flat with no “restaurant table wobble,” and the clicking/rattle stops during stitching.
  • If it still fails: Remove the table and re-install, confirming bracket orientation (pins up) and solid standoff installation.
• Q: What should I do when the Ricoma EM-1010 sewing arms block access to the rear extension table screws?
  A: Do not force a screwdriver at an angle—temporarily remove the interfering sewing arm using an Allen wrench, install the screw, then reattach the arm.
  • Loosen the arm bolt with an Allen wrench (the commonly referenced “4th size” is used in the process).
  • Slide the arm assembly off just enough to access the rear screw point.
  • Reattach the arm immediately after the bracket screw is installed.
  • Success check: Screws drive straight without stripping, and the bracket tightens normally.
  • If it still fails: Stop and reassess clearance—fighting the angle often leads to stripped heads and longer downtime.
• Q: What is the safest upgrade path for Ricoma EM-1010 users embroidering heavy towels and denim jackets to reduce drag, hoop burn, and hooping fatigue?
  A: Use a staged approach: first support the garment weight with the extension table, then improve clamping with magnetic hoops/frames, then consider a multi-needle capacity upgrade if volume demands it.
  • Start with Level 1 (Technique/Setup): Stage the bulk of the towel/jacket on the extension table before clipping the hoop in, then run a manual trace to confirm clearance.
  • Move to Level 2 (Tooling): Use magnetic hoops/frames for thick items when standard hoops pop open, crush fibers, or cause hooping fatigue.
  • Consider Level 3 (Capacity): Add or upgrade to a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine when orders exceed what one setup can comfortably produce.
  • Success check: The garment weight rests on the table (not pulling the hoop), and hooping becomes repeatable with less strain.
  • If it still fails: Re-check stabilizer and topping choices by fabric type and confirm the table surface is clean and snag-free before running production.