Table of Contents
Watch the video: A Beginner's Guide to Serging: Brother 1034D by Rooney Patterns
If you want your handmade garments to look clean inside and hold up to real wear, a serger is a game changer. The Brother 1034D is approachable, budget-friendly, and—once threaded—surprisingly fast to love. This field guide walks you through what the video teaches: the threading sequence for this model, how to start and control your stitch, when to flip the knife on or off, and what to do when stitches go wonky.
What you’ll learn
- How to choose and route serger thread on the Brother 1034D
- The exact color-coded threading order and how to seat threads in tension discs
- Starting a chain, feeding fabric, and managing speed with the foot pedal
- When to lower the knife for practice and when to engage it for trimming
- The simplest way to secure your tail so seams don’t unravel, plus troubleshooting
Why You Need a Serger for Professional Seams A serger creates the tidy, durable finished edges you see in ready-to-wear. Compared to pinking shears or a zigzag stitch on a standard machine, it’s more efficient, more professional, and more resilient in the wash and everyday wear, especially for clothing.
The creator explains that before serging, they used pinking shears or a zigzag stitch to tame fraying. Those still work, but a serged edge simply lasts longer and looks better.
If a serger isn’t in the budget or you’re not ready yet, consider French seams—they enclose the raw edge and look beautiful inside garments. The video mentions there’s a French seam tutorial on their channel if you want an alternative finish while you decide.
From the comments: Several viewers said this tutorial finally made their serger feel approachable. Others mentioned being gifted a 1034D and using this video as their true “start here.” One viewer noted they were intimidated by manuals and older videos, and this guide made the basics “so simple.”
- Quick check: If you’re finishing a simple knit tee or baby bloomers in a stretchy fabric, you can often serge directly. For structured garments in woven fabrics (like a dress or pants), the creator recommends sewing the seam first on a regular machine, then serging to finish the edges.
The Difference Between Serged and Regular Stitches A regular machine’s zigzag can reduce fraying, but it doesn’t trim or wrap the edge the way a serger does. A serger uses loopers and (optionally) a knife: the loopers form the wrap that locks over the raw edge, and the knife can trim uneven or excess seam allowance as you go. The result looks tidy and resists wear-induced fraying.
Durability and Finish for Garments Garments get pulled on, washed, and lived in. The video repeatedly returns to longevity: a serged edge helps your seams wear better over time. If you plan to sew a lot of clothes, the creator “definitely recommends” adding a serger alongside your regular machine.
Getting Started: The Brother 1034D Serger The Brother 1034D is positioned as a basic, cost-effective serger that’s great for clothing and lighter-weight items. The creator suggests checking resale sources or borrowing one to test the waters if you’re unsure.
Understanding Serger Thread Serger thread comes on large cones—more thread per spool than typical machine thread. That’s helpful because threading is a process; fewer swaps mean more sewing. When shopping, look for thread labeled for serger/overlock use, on tall cones (not standard spools). The creator often keeps neutral off-white loaded and only swaps the needle threads to match when the color will show. That’s a personal preference—do what suits your project and goals.
From the comments: Someone asked how to save money when only needing a rare color once. The video doesn’t specify alternatives, but the principle shared is that cones last a long time, so neutrals can be an efficient default.
Your Machine Settings: Keep a Photo! Once your stitch looks great, snap a photo of the tension dials and side settings. It’s easy to bump something and forget where you were. The creator’s current settings are how the machine came out of the box and work well for their thinner woven fabrics; your ideal may vary based on fabric. The exact dial numbers visible in the video include tensions around the mid-range and a stitch length between 2 and 3, with differential feed at the normal middle position. If you change fabrics often, those photos are gold.
- Pro tip: Keep a small notepad or a phone album dedicated to “winning settings.” Note the fabric type and whether the knife was on.
- Watch out: The creator advises not to exceed denim-level thickness on this model and to serge thick materials one layer at a time if needed. Very heavy fabrics risk broken needles and messy stitches.
Mastering the Threading Process Threading is “the most important part.” If the machine isn’t threaded correctly—exactly as this model requires—you’ll chase problems, from loose looping to tangles. The video covers the full sequence for the Brother 1034D (models can differ, so check your manual if you have another).
Step-by-Step Threading Guide (Color-Coded)
- Load four serger cones and raise the T-bar.
- Route all threads through the back holes of the T-bar.
- Thread in this order on the 1034D: green → blue → pink → yellow.
- For each path, seat the thread in its tension disc until you feel a “snap,” then follow the matching color dots and hooks inside the machine.
- Use the handwheel and any model-specific access levers to reach each guide in sequence.
- Use tweezers to thread tiny openings.
Start with green: Seat the thread in its tension disc, follow the green guides and hooks (including the one marked “7”), and thread through the looper opening, pulling the tail to the back.
Continue with blue: Repeat the sequence for the blue path, including turning the handwheel to reveal the arrowed section so you can thread behind it before pushing it back in.
Close the front door and finish with the needles: Pink routes to the right needle; yellow routes to the left needle. Reattach the presser foot when done. Turn the handwheel toward you to form a small chain—this confirms the threads are in place.
- Quick check: All threads should be routed exactly along the color lines and dots with no knots or frayed ends, and all tails pointing to the back of the machine.
Tips for Smooth Thread Passage
- Remove the presser foot during threading for more room; snap it back on when finished.
- Snip thread ends to a crisp angle before feeding through tiny openings.
- If something looks off, don’t half-fix. Pull the threads, clean out lint, and re-thread from scratch.
From the comments: Two viewers discussed that the 1034DX threading order can differ from the 1034D. Always follow your specific manual if your model isn’t the 1034D shown here. Another viewer asked which spool belongs to “green”; the creator clarified: use the cone directly behind the green section.
Basic Operation and Knife Control Starting a Chain Stitch and Feeding Fabric Turn the handwheel toward you—never backwards—until you form a small thread chain (a tail). Lift the presser foot, slide your fabric under, lower the foot, and press the foot pedal gently to begin. The machine can run fast, so ease in as you learn and keep the fabric moving in a steady line.
The creator recommends practicing with the knife off at first, especially when joining pieces, so you don’t accidentally cut into your project. Once you’re comfortable, you can engage the knife to trim uneven edges or excess seam allowance as you serge.
- Watch out: Extra fabric folds can slip under the knife and get cut by accident. Keep layers flat and out of the cutting path.
When to Use (and Not Use) the Knife The knife is part of why serged edges look so crisp—it trims as it finishes. But until you internalize where it cuts, keep it off for practice. If your seam allowance is quite narrow (¼″ or less), the creator recommends turning the knife off so you don’t remove too much.
- Pro tip: For curved seams or areas with notches, slow down and preview the path. If in doubt, switch the knife off for that segment, then trim by hand afterward.
- Quick check: Does the machine feed smoothly with a consistent chain, and do you see that edge wrapping neatly without loopy slack? If not, stop and confirm threading/tension.
Finishing and Troubleshooting Your Serged Seams How to Secure Your Thread Tails Sew off the fabric’s edge to create a several-inch chain tail, then snip the chain. Use a darning needle to thread the tail back through the chain on the fabric edge. This locks the seam so it won’t unravel. A simple knot can work, but weaving looks cleaner.
Why Your Stitches Might Be Messed Up (and How to Fix Them) Messy stitches almost always trace back to threading. The creator’s first move: remove the threads, clean the machine, then re-thread meticulously in the correct order, ensuring each thread is fully seated in its tension disc and guided along every color-coded hook and dot. Once re-threaded, double-check your tension dials and any side settings.
From the comments: Multiple sewists shared that re-threading solved months or years of frustration. One viewer said practicing with the knife down helped them get over the fear factor.
- Quick check: After re-threading, turn the handwheel toward you and verify a smooth chain forms before placing fabric. If the chain looks irregular, inspect the last path you threaded.
- Watch out: Lint buildup can interfere with thread paths or knife action. A quick vacuum around crevices after each session keeps things clear.
Serger Best Practices for Longevity Keeping Your Machine Clean The video recommends vacuuming dust and fabric bits from crevices regularly—ideally after each use. Be mindful of loose threads so they don’t get sucked in. This small habit keeps the machine in “tip-top shape,” which pays off in consistent stitching.
Choosing the Right Fabric Thickness The 1034D is a basic, accessible model; the creator avoids fabrics thicker than denim. For heavier materials (canvas, thick denim), they suggest serging one layer at a time and then sewing layers together on a regular machine to avoid broken needles or jammed stitches.
From the comments: Questions came up about oil, needle sizes, and whether a serger can handle patchwork. The video doesn’t specify oiling procedures. For needles, one reply from the creator mentions 130/705 H as a standard size they use. Quilting usage isn’t covered in the video; sergers are primarily highlighted here for garment edge finishing.
- Pro tip: If you frequently switch between knits and wovens, note the tensions and settings that worked for each in your photo log.
- Watch out: Always turn the handwheel toward you. Turning it backwards can cause thread issues; the video cautions against it.
From the comments: Quick hits and helpful takeaways
- “I was intimidated by the manual; this made threading simple.” Confidence grows quickly once you follow the colored paths in the right order.
- “Practicing with the knife down helped me lose my fear.” Great training wheels while you learn feed, speed, and hand placement.
- “Which spool is green?” For the 1034D shown, the creator uses the cone directly behind the green section.
- “Does 1034DX thread the same?” A viewer noted their 1034DX followed a different order (right-to-left). Always follow your manual for your exact model.
- “What needle size?” The creator referenced 130/705 H in a reply when asked about a broken left needle.
Bonus: Fabric choice—serge or sew first? The creator’s guidance is clear and practical:
- Stretchy knits (simple garments like tees and baby bloomers): You can often go straight to the serger. The stitch accommodates stretch.
- Woven fabrics (structured garments like dresses or pants): Sew seams first on a regular machine, then serge to finish raw edges and prevent fraying.
This approach keeps the construction tidy and reduces the chance that woven edges loosen or unravel during handling.
Troubleshooting speed round
- Stitches look tangled or loose: Re-thread in the correct 1034D order; reseat tension discs until they “snap.” Confirm no knots or frayed thread ends.
- Fabric accidentally nicked: Knife likely on with stray fabric under it. Practice with the knife off; keep extra fabric flat and out of the cutting path.
- Chain won’t form: Turn the handwheel toward you, confirm all paths are threaded through the correct hooks/dots, and test a short chain before feeding fabric.
- Thick fabric struggles: Stay at or under denim-level bulk; for canvas or heavy stacks, serge one layer at a time and sew layers together afterward.
Care and confidence checklist
- Take a reference photo of “perfect stitch” settings.
- Clean lint with a vacuum after each session.
- Practice with the knife down until feeding and speed feel natural.
- Keep a neutral cone set loaded; swap only the needle threads if you want color matching that shows.
- Always check the manual if your model is not the 1034D.
A note on related gear and search terms This tutorial focuses on serging edges for garment sewing rather than embroidery or hooping systems. If you also explore embroidery in your studio, you might come across terms like brother embroidery machine, brother sewing machine, or combo units marketed as a sewing and embroidery machine. Accessory hunting can lead to items such as brother accessories for brand-specific add-ons, or general concepts like a magnetic embroidery hoop used on embroidery-capable models. Some crafters look for brand-agnostic info with phrases like magnetic embroidery hoops or machine-specific frames such as a brother magnetic frame. These are separate from serger use, but it’s helpful to know the vocabulary if you branch into embroidery later on.
Wrap-up The Brother 1034D shines when it’s threaded correctly and kept clean. Start with the color order shown in the video, form a short chain before feeding fabric, and practice with the knife off. Once you’re comfortable, engage the knife for that magically tidy edge. And when stitches go sideways, re-thread, reset, and you’re back to smooth, durable seams.
Credits and source All steps and tips in this guide are drawn from “A Beginner’s Guide to Serging: Brother 1034D” by Rooney Patterns and reinforced by viewer questions and experiences shared in the comments.