Digitize a Hat Pot Holder in Hatch: Motif Fill, Tack-Down, 5mm Satin Border, and a Clean PES Export

Setting Up the Circular Base Shape

A clean pot holder (or “hat pot holder”) file starts with one thing: a perfectly controlled base shape. In this tutorial, you’ll build a circle in Hatch, then reuse that exact geometry for every later layer—so your tack-down, satin border, and finishing run stitch all register perfectly.

But here is the reality of embroidery that software tutorials often miss: Digital perfection does not guarantee physical perfection. A perfect circle on your screen can easily become an oval on your machine if verify the physics of push and pull. In this guide, we will bridge the gap between clicking buttons and running a machine.

What you’ll learn (and why it matters)

You’ll create a circular design using Hatch’s digitizing tools, then stack stitches in a production-friendly order. We aren't just drawing lines; we are engineering a structure that survives the physical stress of a moving needle.

• Draw a circle accurately (creating a "Master Shape" so every copy/paste aligns mathematically).
• Convert the fill to a circle motif pattern and open it up with specific spacing to prevent fabric "bulletproofing" (stiffness).
• Add a separate-color tack-down outline to force the machine to pause, giving you a safe control point.
• Build a thick 5.00 mm satin border that acts as a "forgiveness zone" for manual trimming.
• Add a final single-run line over the satin to stabilize the edges and increase abrasion resistance.
• Save the native working file first, then export a PES.

If you’re planning to stitch this on real items (not just on-screen), the file structure you’re building here is exactly the kind of structure that reduces re-hooping, reduces edge fraying, and makes your results more repeatable—especially when you’re doing multiples.

Step 1 — Draw the circle (the master shape)

1. In Hatch, go into the digitize tools and select the Circle shape.
2. Click the center point on the grid.
3. Drag outward until the circle is as large as you need. Expert Tip: If your final product is 100mm, digitize it at 100mm. Resizing later changes density.
4. Press Return once to set the diameter.
5. Press Return again to generate stitches.

Checkpoint: You should see a blue outline first (the vector), then the circle instantly fills as a stitched object.

Expected outcome: One clean circular object that you can reuse as the “template” for every later layer.

Why this “master shape” approach prevents headaches

In embroidery digitizing, the fastest way to create tiny misalignments is to redraw shapes for each layer manually. The "Master Shape" method uses Copy/Paste to ensure the geometry is identical.

Also, keep in mind that stitch layers behave like controlled tension bands: a border can slightly pull the edge inward (Pull Compensation), while an open motif fill exerts less force. Building from one master shape helps you predict and manage those forces. If you draw them separately, you introduce "drift" before the needle even moves.

Customizing Motif Fills and Spacing

Now you’ll turn that circle into an airy motif fill made of circles. This is where the design goes from “solid fill” to “decorative texture.” This is critical for pot holders or stiff items where you don't want a solid "bulletproof" patch of thread.

Step 2 — Convert to Motif fill and set the circle pattern

1. Select the circle object.
2. Right-click and open Object Properties.
3. Change the stitch type to Motif.
4. For the motif selection, choose Circles (or a similar geometric shape if you are experimenting).

Step 3 — Set motif size and spacing (the exact values from the video)

In Object Properties, enter the following empirical values. These are chosen to provide coverage without density:

• Pattern Width: 24.00 mm
• Pattern Height: 24.00 mm (auto-adjusts when width is set)
• Column Spacing: 24.00 mm
• Row Spacing: 24.00 mm

Checkpoint: The fill should change from a dense Tatami or Satin look to a separated pattern of small circles with significant negative space between them.

Expected outcome: An open, less-dense motif fill that still reads as a complete circular design.

Expert note: spacing is a “fabric decision,” not just a style decision

The 24.00 mm spacing creates a lot of open fabric between stitches. This looks great on screen, but physically, it changes how the fabric behaves.

• On stable, non-stretch materials (Canvas, Denim, Felt): Open motifs stitch cleanly because the fabric supports itself.
• On stretchy or loosely woven materials (Knits, T-shirts): Open motifs can distort. Why? Because there is no solid thread base to lock the fabric fibers together. The fabric can ripple in the gaps.

The Solution: If you’re stitching this open design on a finished item, the hooping method matters as much as the digitizing. You need the fabric to be as flat as a drum skin, but not stretched. When traditional hooping is slow or leaves "hoop burn" marks (crushed velvet or shiny polyesters), many shops move to magnetic embroidery hoops because they clamp consistently with vertical pressure, resulting in less fabric distortion and zero "burn" marks on sensitive materials.

Creating the Perfect Tack-Down and Satin Border

This section is the heart of the file structure: you’ll create a tack-down outline that creates a Mandatory Stop, followed by a thick satin border that hides trimming imperfections.

Step 4 — Create the tack-down stitch (duplicate + outline + color change)

1. Copy the original circle shape (Ctrl+C).
2. Paste it (Ctrl+V) so you have an identical duplicate on top.
3. Convert the duplicate stitch type to Outline / Single Run.
4. Change the outline color to Red (or any contrasting color).

Checkpoint: You should see a red outline around the motif fill in the sequence view.

Expected outcome: A dedicated tack-down run that acts as its own color block.

Warning: A single-run outline is deceptive. It looks simple, but it is a needle-moving operation. Keep fingers clear. Do not "hover-hand" near the needle area to hold fabric down while it runs. Use a pencil or a specific "holding stick" if you must intervene.

Why the color change is more than “just organization”

In production, your machine sees a Color Change as a "Stop Command." Even if you’re not truly changing thread color, separating the tack-down into its own color block forces the machine to pause. This allows you to:

• Confirm placement: Is the circle centered?
• Trim: If you are doing applique, this is when you cut the fabric.
• Physics Check: Is the fabric puckering? Smooth it out now before the heavy border locks it in forever.

If you’re running a multi-needle setup, this kind of structured stop can be the difference between saving one item and scrapping a whole batch.

Step 5 — Create the satin border (duplicate again + satin + 5.00 mm width)

1. Copy the circle again.
2. Paste it.
3. Change the stitch type to Satin.
4. Set Satin Width to 5.00 mm.

Checkpoint: The outline should transform into a wide, thick satin border.

Expected outcome: A “fatter” satin border that covers raw edges. 5.00 mm is significantly wider than a standard 3.5 mm border, offering maximum coverage.

Expert note: why a 5 mm satin border is forgiving (and when it isn’t)

A 5mm satin border is a double-edged sword.

• The Pro: It is incredibly forgiving. If your manual trimming is staggering or uneven, this wide border hides the mess perfectly.
• The Con: A 5mm satin stitch puts a lot of tension on the fabric. It wants to pull the fabric toward the center (the "tunneling" effect).

The Reality Check: If you see rippling around this wide satin, the fix is rarely “tighten the hoop harder.” Tightening too much causes hoop burn. The fix is usually better stabilization.

If you’re doing this as a repeat product (e.g., 50 patches), evaluate your workflow around machine embroidery hoops and how consistently they hold tension across different operators. Inconsistent hooping shows up instantly on wide satin borders as "waves" or "puckers."

Adding Finishing Stitches for Durability

This final stitch layer is subtle but crucial for longevity: a single run placed over the satin border helps hold the long satin threads down (preventing snagging) and defines the edge.

Step 6 — Add the finishing run stitch over the satin

1. Take the initial single run stitch (the outline style).
2. Paste it back over the satin border so it runs through the center of the satin.

Checkpoint: You should see a thin line running through the middle of the satin border.

Expected outcome: A cleaner-looking border that is visually “tied down.”

Practical durability insight

On items that get handled (pot holders, patches, bag tags), edges take the most abuse. Long satin stitches (like 5mm) are prone to snagging on jewelry or washing machine agitators. The center run acts as an anchor.

• Sensory Note: When stitching this layer over a thick 5mm satin, you might hear a "thump-thump" sound as the needle penetrates the dense thread. This is normal, but if you hear a sharp "click" or "snap," stop immediately—it usually means a needle deflection or tip damage.

Exporting Your Design to PES Format

The simulation ends with a workflow that prevents one of the most common digitizing mistakes: exporting the machine code before saving the editable master file.

Step 7 — Save the working file first

1. Use Save Design As (or your normal save workflow).
2. Navigate to the exact folder where you want the working file stored.
3. Save with a clear name (e.g., Circle_Master_v1.EMB).

Checkpoint: The save dialog closes and your file is stored where you intended.

Expected outcome: You have a native Hatch working file you can edit later. PES files are not easily editable. Always save the native file.

Warning: Hatch (and many other programs) may default to a generic “My Designs” directory deep in the C: drive. Always confirm the folder path before clicking Save, or you’ll waste hours hunting for files later.

Step 8 — Export to PES

1. Choose Export Design.
2. Navigate again to the folder where you want the embroidery file saved.
3. Confirm the filename.
4. Save/export as PES (or DST/JEF depending on your machine).

Checkpoint: The export completes.

Expected outcome: A machine-readable file that matches your latest saved version.

Pro workflow tip: versioning prevents “mystery edits”

In a busy shop, it is easy to mix up files. Use this simple naming convention:

• DesignName_Working.EMB (For you)
• DesignName_Export_v1.PES (For the machine)

If you edit the design, save it as v2. Never overwrite the original until the final product is tested and approved.

Prep

Digitizing is only 50% of the job. The other 50% is physics. Your stitch results depend entirely on what happens before you press the start button.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (don’t skip these)

• Needle(s): For a 5mm satin, use a sturdy needle. A 75/11 Ballpoint (for knits) or 75/11 Sharp (for woven/felt) is standard. Bends or burrs will shred your satin thread.
• Thread: Ensure the top thread path is smooth. Check the bobbin—you want about 70% full, not overfilled.
• Bobbin Case: Remove the faceplate and blow out lint. A tiny dust bunny can alter tension by 20g-30g, causing loops.
• Maintenance: A drop of oil on the hook race (if your manual says so) can quiet the machine for dense satin work.
• Stabilizer: This is non-negotiable for a 5mm satin border.

If you’re producing physical pot holders or patches, your hooping workflow bottlenecks fast. Many shops add a hooping station for embroidery when they start doing repeats because it standardizes placement (saving accurate measurements) and reduces operator fatigue/wrist strain.

Stabilizer decision tree (fabric → backing choice)

A 5mm satin border pulls hard. Use this logic to choose your "foundation."

1. Is the fabric stretchy (knit, rib, performance wear)?
   • Decision: You MUST use Cut-Away (2.5oz or 3.0oz).
   • Why: Tear-away will disintegrate under the satin needles, causing the border to detach and "tunnel."
2. Is the fabric thin or prone to puckering (light cotton, linen blends)?
   • Decision: Use a Medium Cut-Away or a Fused Poly-mesh.
   • Technique: Hooping must be "drum tight" without stretching the grain.
3. Is the item thick or layered (quilted pot holder, heavy canvas, denim)?
   • Decision: A strong Tear-Away (2.0oz+) is usually sufficient because the fabric itself has stability.

Prep checklist (before you stitch the exported PES)

• File Check: Confirm the PES loaded is the latest export (v1, v2, etc.).
• Needle Check: Run your fingernail down the needle checking for burrs.
• Bobbin Check: Is the bobbin area lint-free? Is the bobbin seated correctly?
• Stabilizer: Matched to fabric (Stretch = Cutaway; Stable = Tearaway).
• Stop Points: Did you confirm on the screen that the machine sees the Red/Blue color change as a defined stop?
• Test: Do a quick test stitch on similar scrap if this is a new material stack.

Setup

This is where digitizing decisions meet real-world hooping and machine handling. Your file is structured to help you pause at the right time; now you need a setup that keeps the circle true.

Hooping and alignment: what matters for this design

• Tension: Tap the hooped fabric. It should sound like a dull thud (like a watermelon), not loose paper.
• Alignment: Use the grid on your hoop template. A circle with a border has zero tolerance for being oval.
• Structure: If you’re stitching on awkward items (bags, caps, small pre-made pieces), choose a hoop that holds securely without crushing the material's fibers.

If you’re stitching on caps, you’ll need the correct cap system; a cap hoop for embroidery machine is designed specifically to maintain tension on the curved surface (the "crown") so the circle doesn't distort into an egg shape.

Warning: Strong magnets (used in magnetic frames) can pinch skin severely. They can also affect sensitive electronics. Keep magnetic frames away from pacemakers/medical implants, magnetic-stripe cards, and handle them with deliberate two-handed control. Never let two magnets "snap" together uncontrolled.

Tool upgrade path (when setup is the bottleneck)

If you find yourself spending 5 minutes hooping for a 2-minute stitch out, your business is losing money. Use this decision logic:

• Scenario A: Occasional One-Offs. Standard plastic hoops are fine. Focus on technique.
• Scenario B: Production Runs (50+ shirts). Manual alignment is too slow. A placement system like hoopmaster creates a physical jig for consistent left-chest placement every time.
• Scenario C: "Impossible" Garments (Thick jackets, pockets, bags). If you struggle to close the hoop bracket or get "hoop burn" marks, look into magnetic frames. For Brother users working with compatible frames, a hoop for brother embroidery machine upgrade to a magnetic version can eliminate the need to wrestle with thumbscrews.

Operation

Below is the full stitch-plan logic implied by the digitizing steps, translated into a practical run order with checkpoints.

Step-by-step run order (from your PES)

1. Motif fill stitches (The open circle motif pattern).
   • Sensory Check: Listen for a smooth, rhythmical hum.
   • Visual Check: Watch the fabric. Is it pushing a "wave" in front of the foot? If so, stop and re-hoop tighter.
   • Expected outcome: A decorative interior that stays round.
2. STOP -> Tack-down single run (Red).
   • Action: The machine stops. You check the placement. If this is an applique, you trim the fabric now.
   • Visual Check: Does the outline land exactly where needed? If it's off-center, adjust your hoop position now before the border stitches.
   • Expected outcome: A clean placement outline that acts as the "skeleton" for the border.
3. Satin border (5.00 mm).
   • Sensory Check: The sound will change to a deeper, faster stitch. Watch for thread shredding (fringing) at the needle eye.
   • Expected outcome: A bold border that wraps the edge.
4. Finishing run stitch over satin.
   • Visual Check: Ensure this line is centered. If it drifts to the left or right, it indicates the fabric has pulled (distorted) during the satin phase.
   • Expected outcome: A neater, more durable edge.

Operational checklist (during the run)

• Motif Roundness: After step 1, pause and check: Is the circle still a circle? (If it's an oval, your stabilizer is too weak).
• The "Pause": At the tack-down stop, did you physically inspect the alignment?
• Satin Tension: During the wide border, watch the bobbin thread underneath (if visible). You should see a 1/3 strip of white bobbin thread. If you see only top thread, tension is too loose.
• Thread Breaks: If the thread breaks more than twice in the same spot, change the needle immediately. It likely has a burr or sticky adhesive on it.
• Finishing: After the final run, does the border look solid/opaque?

Quality Checks

Use these checks to decide whether the file and setup are production-ready.

Visual checks

• Roundness: Use a physical ruler. Measure height vs. width. They should be equal. If the height is less than the width, the grain tension pulled it in.
• Registration: Is the "Finishing Run" (Step 6) dead center? Or did it "fall off" the satin?
• Puckering: Look at the fabric closely surrounding the outer 5mm border. Is it smooth, or does it look like a ruffled potato chip?

Handling checks (real-world durability)

• The "Scratch Test": Run your fingernail vigorously over the satin border. Does it snag? (The finishing run should prevent this).
• The "Crunch Test": Scrunch the patch/fabric. Does it bounce back? If it feels like cardboard, the motif density might be too high for the stabilizer used.

Efficiency check (time is money)

If you’re making these as a product, track:

• Hooping Time: (Ideal: < 45 seconds).
• Stitch Time: (Fixed by machine speed).
• Failure Rate: How many did you throw away due to hoop burn or crooked borders?

When hooping time dominates your workflow, upgrading your embroidery frame approach—specifically moving to magnetic systems that snap on in seconds—yields the highest ROI (Return on Investment).

Troubleshooting

Real-world embroidery is messy. Here are the symptoms that occur when "perfect digital files" hit "imperfect physical fabric."

Symptom: Satin border ripples or waves ("The Bacon Effect")

• Likely Cause: The fabric was stretched too tight in the hoop (drum tight is good, stretched is bad). When you remove the hoop, the fabric shrinks back, but the thread doesn't.
• Software Fix: Increase "Pull Compensation" in Hatch properties.
• Physical Fix: Use a Cut-Away stabilizer and verify you aren't over-stretching the fabric during hooping.

Symptom: Border doesn’t fully cover the raw edge

• Likely Cause: Manual trimming was sloppy, OR the fabric shifted during the machine run.

Symptom: The circle looks like an egg (Oval)

• Likely Cause: "Push and Pull." Stitches pull fabric in the direction the needle moves and push it in the perpendicular direction.

Symptom: You can’t find your exported file

• Likely Cause: Saving to the default system folder.

Results

You now have a structured Hatch design built from one master circle: an open circle motif fill (24mm spacing for flexibility), a controlled tack-down stop, a 5.00 mm forgiveness border, and a durability run stitch.

But more importantly, you have the process to execute it. You know that a 5mm border requires strong stabilizer. You know that open motifs distort on knits without cut-away backing. And you know that if you plan to stitch this repeatedly, your quality leap will come from consistency outside the software—using tools like magnetic frames to ensure every circle starts (and stays) round. Digital precision is the start; physical control is the finish line.