Hatch Tutorial: Digitize Holes, Fill Them Cleanly, and Control Gaps with Overlap Settings

Introduction to Digitizing Holes in Hatch

Stitching a clean hole inside a filled shape is one of the first "reality checks" a beginner faces in machine embroidery. On your screen, a hole is just negative space—a pure void. But in the physical world of embroidery, holes are high-risk zones. They are where fabric relaxes, where registration errors show up as glaring white gaps, and where the dreaded "push-pull" mechanics can distort a perfect circle into a wobbly oval.

Mastering holes is essential for creating eyelets, badge borders, appliqué windows, and counters in lettering (the empty space in A, O, or R). If you skip the fundamentals here, you will fight an endless battle against gaps and misalignment.

In this deep-dive walkthrough, we will decode the exact Hatch workflow used by Sue (an experienced educator) and overlay it with 20 years of production floor wisdom. We will cover:

• The Base Object: Creating a stable closed shape.
• The Cut: Using correct input sequences (the "Double Enter" rule) to void coordinates.
• The Intelligent Fill: Using Fill Holes to generate new objects automatically.
• The Safety Net: Mastering Overlap settings to compensate for physical physics.

Think of software as the blueprint, but understand that the machine is the contractor. We will teach you how to draw blueprints that the contractor can actually build.

How to Create a Hole in a Closed Shape

Step 1 — Digitize a closed shape (your base object)

Sue starts with a clear, simple foundation. In the software, this is geometry; on the machine, this is your "anchor."

1. Navigate to the Digitize toolbox.
2. Select Digitize Closed Shape.
3. The Sensory Input: Place your curve points using right-clicks.
   • Expert Note: Left-clicks create straight lines (hard corners); right-clicks create curves. Imagine you are tracing a coffee mug; you want the smooth flow of right-clicks.
4. Press Enter to seal the shape.

Checkpoint: On screen, you should see a solid, filled object (Sue uses a Tatami fill) sitting on the grid. Sensory Check: It looks like a solid patch. There are no gaps.

Expected outcome: A standard embroidery object that is now ready to receive modification.

Step 2 — Cut a hole inside the object (the “Enter twice” moment)

This is the specific sequence that trips up 90% of beginners. The software needs to know when you are done drawing the hole and when you are done using the tool.

1. Select (highlight) your base object.
2. Click Digitize Holes in the toolbox.
3. Draw the boundary of your hole inside the object using right-clicks for curves.
4. Crucial Sequence:
   • Press Enter (1st time): This closes the shape you just drew (connects start to end).
   • Press Enter (2nd time): This executes the "Cut" command.

Checkpoint: The center fill should vanish instantly, revealing the grid background through the object. Visual Anchor: It should look like a donut or a tire.

Expected outcome: A single object with a void in the center.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. While focusing on software, never forget the physical machine context. Keep hands clear of the needle bar and pantograph (moving arm) when the machine is active. Always power down before changing needles. A needle puncture is a traumatic injury that can end your embroidery career.

Pro tips pulled from viewer questions

• Can I do complex shapes? A viewer asked about a heart-shaped hole. Absolutely. The machine follows coordinate points, not geometry rules. You can cut a star, a complex silhouette, or a jagged tear just as easily as a circle.
• What about text? A viewer asked about a lettering hole. The principle is universal. The inside of an 'O' or 'P' is technically just a hole boundary inside a column.

Watch out: “Not centered” is not a software bug

If your hole isn't perfectly centered, it is rarely a glitch—it is usually human input error.

Using the Fill Holes Tool for Automatic Objects

Step 3 — Fill the hole (auto-create a new object)

Once a hole exists, Hatch offers a powerful shortcut to create an object that fits perfectly inside that void. This is faster than manually tracing a new shape.

1. Select the donut/base object.
2. Click Digitize > Fill Holes.

The "Invisible" Problem: Sue highlights a critical behavior: The new object inherits the exact stitch properties (color, angle, density) of the parent object.

• Result: on screen, it looks like nothing happened. The hole just "disappeared."

Checkpoint: The hole is technically patched. Action: Immediately change the color of the new object (Sue uses red). This is the "Eyeball Test."

Expected outcome: Two distinct objects: an outer ring and a separate inner circle.

Why this matters in real stitch-outs (expert context)

Why separate them? Why not just stitch a solid circle? Because Push and Pull. When embroidery thread penetrates fabric, it displaces fiber (push) and tightens the fabric (pull).

• The Outer Ring: Will likely pull inward, making the hole larger.
• The Inner Fill: Will pull inward, becoming smaller.
• The Result: If you don't manage this, you get a "gap"—a white line of visible fabric between the red center and the surrounding ring.

This separation is where novice work often fails. If you are stitching logos where registration (alignment) is critical, simply relying on software perfection isn't enough. The physical fabric must be held immovable. This is why high-volume shops often upgrade from standard hoops to a machine embroidery hooping station; it ensures that the fabric tension is identical on every single shirt, reducing the variable distortion that causes gaps.

Understanding Overlap Settings: Preventing Gaps

Step 4 — Find the Overlap setting

To fight the "Gap," we use Overlap. This is your safety margin.

• Go to Software Settings > Embroidery Settings.
• Locate the Overlap tab/field.

Sue demonstrates setting Overlap to 0.20 inches.

• Note: 0.20 inches (approx 5mm) is a large overlap, likely used here for clear demonstration.
• Beginner Sweet Spot: For standard production work on polo shirts or caps, a safer, subtler overlap is typically 0.015" to 0.03" (0.4mm - 0.8mm). This hides the gap without creating a bulky ridge of double-density thread.

Important limitation: This is a preset. Changing this number does not retroactively fix objects on screen. It only affects the next time you use the Fill Holes tool.

Checkpoint: Confirm the settings dialog is open.

Expected outcome: We are programming the software to add a "bleed margin" to our future objects.

What “Overlap” is really doing (expert explanation)

Think of Overlap as "Pull Compensation's Cousin."

• Zero Overlap: The software edges match perfectly. (High risk of gaps in reality).
• Positive Overlap: The inner object expands slightly underneath the outer object.
• Negative Overlap: The inner object shrinks away, leaving a deliberate gap.

The Physics of Failure: If you stitch on a stretchy pique knit (polo shirt fabric) using standard tear-away stabilizer, the fabric will distort. Even a 0.02" overlap might not be enough. Before you dial up the overlap to extreme numbers (which creates bulletproof stiffness), look at your hardware. Is the fabric "drum-tight"? Are you experiencing "hoop burn" (shiny ring marks) because you overtightened the screw to prevent movement? This is a common trade-off. Many professionals utilize magnetic embroidery hoops in this scenario. They hold thick or slippery garments securely without the mechanical twisting force of a screw hoop, reducing the fabric distortion that makes massive overlap settings necessary.

Step 4A — Visualize a small positive overlap

Sue shows the result of the setting.

Checkpoint: Switch to Wireframe View or close-up TrueView. You should see the red inner object extending slightly past the boundary of the hole, tucking underneath the outer ring.

Expected outcome: A mechanically sound junction that will cover fabric manufacturing variances.

Creative Digitizing: Using Negative Overlap

Step 5 — Create a deliberate gap (negative overlap)

Sometimes, you want a gap—for example, a "floating" pupil in an eye, or to avoid mashing two dense fills together on a leather patch.

1. In Embroidery Settings, set Overlap to -1.000 inches (Demonstration value).
2. Delete the old red fill object (remember, settings aren't retroactive!).
3. Select the base object.
4. Click Fill Holes again.

Checkpoint: The new fill appears significantly smaller, floating in the center of the void.

Expected outcome: A stylized effect where the background fabric becomes a design element (the white of the eye).

When negative overlap is useful (expert use-cases)

Negative overlap is a professional efficiency hack.

• Mascot Eyes: Create the black pupil inside the white sclera without manual tracing.
• Layer Reduction: If stitching on a heavy jacket, you don't want three layers of thread. A small negative overlap can help butt-join shapes (though risky).

However, reliance on precise gaps requires precise hooping. If your hoop is slightly loose, that 1mm calculated gap becomes a 3mm messy hole. Standardizing your prep with a dedicated hooping station is often the easiest way to ensure that the gap you distinguish on screen is the gap you get on the finished garment.

Step 5A — Reset overlap back to zero (perfect match)

Sue resets Overlap to 0.000 inches. Process loop:

1. Delete current fill.
2. Fill Holes tool.

Checkpoint: The edges kiss perfectly on screen. Reality Check: Only use 0.00 overlap on non-stretch fabrics (denim, canvas) or when using very strong adhesive stabilizer.

Expected outcome: Theoretical perfection.

Step 5B — Demonstrate an exaggerated positive overlap

Sue sets Overlap = 1.000 inches. This creates a massive overlap where the inner object nearly covers the outer one. This is functionally useless for standard embroidery but excellent for understanding the tool's logic.

Digitizing Multiple Holes Simultaneously

Step 6 — Remove holes (fast revert)

Did you mistrace?

1. Select the object.
2. Click Remove Holes.

Checkpoint: The object "heals" instantly, returning to a solid block.

Expected outcome: A clean slate.

Step 7 — Digitize multiple holes in one sequence

Efficiency is key. You don't need to exit the tool for every hole.

1. Start Digitize Holes.
2. Draw Hole #1 boundary -> Press Enter.
3. Draw Hole #2 boundary -> Press Enter.
4. Draw Hole #3 boundary -> Press Enter.
5. Final Execution: Press Enter one last time to cut all of them at once.

Checkpoint: Swiss cheese effect. All voids appear simultaneously.

Expected outcome: A complex base shape created in seconds.

Comment-driven “watch out”: merging holes together

A viewer asked about merging holes. Imagine cutting a "Figure 8" hole. Hatch struggles if you draw two overlapping circles and try to cut them as separate holes. The Fix: If holes need to touch, draw them as one continuous complex shape rather than two overlapping shapes.

Also, complex holes destabilize fabric. If you are stitching a design with many cuts (like lace effect) on a Left Chest, the fabric integrity is compromised. This is where the hooping for embroidery machine technique must change. You may need to "float" additional stabilizer under the hoop or verify your alignment aids, as the fabric will try to collapse inward.

Prep

Success is 80% preparation, 20% digitizing. Before you test your new hole design, you must stabilize variables.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (The "Mystery Gap" Killers)

Beginners often focus on the software and ignore the consumables. Check these:

• Needles: A dull needle pushes fabric down before piercing it (Flagging). This creates registration gaps instantly. Use a fresh 75/11 Sharp for wovens or Ballpoint for knits.
• Adhesives: Temporary Spray Adhesive (KK100/505) is mandatory if you are floating fabric or dealing with slippery synthetics.
• Bobbin: Is the tension correct? (Drop test: holding the thread, the bobbin case should slide down slightly when jerked).

Decision tree — choose a stabilization approach

Do not use software overlap to fix a physics problem. Use this tree:

• Scenario A: Stretchy Knit (Polo/T-shirt)?
  • Risk: High distortion. Gaps likely.
  • Rx: Cut-away Stabilizer (2.5oz). Do not use Tear-away. Overlap setting: +0.02".
• Scenario B: Stable Woven (Denim/Cap)?
  • Risk: Low distortion.
  • Rx: Tear-away Stabilizer. Overlap setting: +0.01" or 0.00".
• Scenario C: Slippery Nylon (Windbreaker)?
  • Risk: Fabric sliding in hoop.
  • Rx: Sticky Backing or strong clamping. Overlap setting: +0.03".

The Hooping Variable: If you cannot tighten the hoop screw enough to hold a thick hoodie without causing "hoop burn" (crushed velvet/fabric), you have hit a hardware limit. It is safer to switch to magnetic embroidery frames. These use vertical magnetic force rather than radial friction, securing thick items without damage and preventing the shifting that ruins your specific hole alignments.

Prep checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Visual: Base object is closed; hole boundary is verified closed.
• Differentiation: Center fill color is changed to contrast with outer ring.
• Hardware: Needle is fresh; Bobbin is checked.
• Structure: Stabilizer matches the Decision Tree above.

Setup

Software setup: make overlap changes intentionally

Sue’s workflow highlighted the trap: Changing the setting does not change the screen.

The Loop:

1. Set Overlap in Embroidery Settings.
2. Delete the failed/old fill.
3. Select Base.
4. Run Fill Holes.

Checkpoint: Did the shape verify against the grid?

Setup checklist (Apples-to-Apples Testing)

• Record the Overlap value for this test run (e.g., "Test A: 0.02 inches").
• Ensure Fabric Assist or Auto Fabric settings are either off or consistent, as these add their own hidden compensation.
• Use TrueView (T key) to visualize the final thread coverage.

Operation

Step-by-step test workflow

1. Create Base.
2. Digitize Hole (Enter x2).
3. Fill Hole.
4. Adjust Overlap -> Delete -> Re-Fill.
5. Export to machine format (DST/PES).

Quality checkpoints

• The Sound: When stitching the transition from Outer Ring to Inner Fill, listen. A sudden change in sound ("thudding") can mean the needle is hitting a bulky overlap ridge.
• The Sight: Watch the registration. Does the Outline stitch land exactly next to the Fill?

If you are a commercial operator doing runs of 50+ shirts, manual hoop screws are a liability for Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI). Speed and safety align when you use an embroidery magnetic hoop. The "snap" closure is faster, reduces wrist strain, and guarantees the exact same tension on Shirt #1 and Shirt #50, keeping your overlap settings valid for the whole run.

Operation checklist (Go/No-Go)

• Design exported with positive overlap (unless effect is desired).
• Hoop tension check: "Drum skin" feel when tapped.
• Machine threaded; hands clear of start area.

Quality Checks

What to look for in a real stitch-out

Inspect the finished patch under good light.

• The White sliver: If you see base fabric between the fill and the hole edge, your pull compensation was insufficient, or your hoop was loose.
• The Ridge: If you feel a hard lump where they meet, your overlap was too aggressive.

If you struggle to get the hoop tension consistent on items like backpacks or heavy canvas, consider the tool itself. Standard plastic hoops struggle here. Professional shops often use a hoop master embroidery hooping station for placement, but increasingly pair it with magnetic frames to handle the difficult clamping physics.

Troubleshooting

Use this table to diagnose issues fast. Start at the top (low cost) before changing software (high cost).

Warning: Magnet Safety. If upgrading to Magnetic Hoops, be aware they generate strong pinch forces. Keep fingers clear of the snap zone. PACEMAKER WARNING: Keep strong magnets at least 6 inches away from implanted medical devices.

Results

You now possess the complete workflow for managing holes in Hatch:

1. Draft the shape.
2. Cut with the precise "Enter... Enter" cadence.
3. Fill with intent.
4. Overlap for safety.

But remember: Digital perfection is only the blueprint. The "Perfect Stitch" is a marriage of your digitizing settings and your physical control of the fabric.

If you find yourself constantly battling gaps despite using correct overlap settings (e.g., 0.02" - 0.04"), the issue is likely your fabric movement. Stop fighting the software and look at your workstation. Upgrading to professional stabilization methods and considering workflow aids like hoopmaster compatible tools or magnetic framing systems will often solve the registration errors that no amount of digitizing can fix.

Trust the physics, verify the tension, and never fear the hole.