Table of Contents
- Understanding Your Juki Computerized Machine
- Essential Tools for Juki Machine Cleaning
- Step-by-Step Cleaning of the Bobbin Area
- Lubricating Key Components for Smooth Operation
- Maintaining the Needle Bar and Threader Mechanism
- Final Reassembly and Important Reminders
- From the comments: real-world Q&A
Watch the video: “How to Clean Your Juki Computerized Machine” by Juki Junkies
If your Juki has started to sound a little clanky, stitches aren’t as consistent as they used to be, or you’ve never looked under the needle plate—this is your friendly nudge. In this hands-on walkthrough, Juki Junkies shows exactly how to clean and oil key areas so your computerized machine hums again.
What you’ll learn
- How to remove the needle plate, bobbin, and bobbin case safely.
- What to inspect on a bobbin case—and when to replace it.
- Where to apply exactly one drop of oil in the hook area.
- How to lightly lubricate the needle bar and threader shaft.
- The safe way to remove lint (vacuum, not canned air) and avoid fragile parts.
Understanding Your Juki Computerized Machine Juki computerized models like the HZL-F600, DX7, DX5, and DX2000 share a common maintenance rhythm: routine lint removal and a few precise oiling points. The lower hook system, bobbin case, and the area under the needle plate are the lint magnets; the needle bar and threader shaft benefit from light lubrication over time. The steps below apply broadly to Juki’s computerized family, and the video demonstrates them clearly on an HZL-F600.
Why maintenance matters: small deposits of lint or a slightly damaged bobbin case can cascade into tension issues and noisy operation. A little attention here prevents bigger headaches later. embroidery sewing machine
Essential Tools for Juki Machine Cleaning Here’s the minimalist toolkit used in the video and why each item earns a place on your table:
- Cleaning swabs: These lift lint and residue out, instead of sweeping it deeper. They also “polish” oil exactly where you need it.
- Oiling pen (Tri-Flow): The fine tip lets you place exactly one drop in the hook area.
- Refill oil bottles (a 6 oz option is mentioned for heavier-oil machines like TL models).
- T-screw: To remove those short, stubby screws on the needle plate.
- Phillips head screwdriver: To remove the side cover near the needle threader.
- Vacuum with a skinny nozzle: Extract lint; do not blow.
Pro tip If you’re tempted to reach for a brush, use it only to loosen lint in the feed dogs—then immediately vacuum it out. Swabs still win for picking up the gunk.
Watch out Avoid canned air. Blowing lint deeper can push debris into places meant to stay clean, especially around sensors and electronics. Stick with a vacuum and swabs.
Quick check Machine off and unplugged? Presser foot raised? Needle up? If yes, you’re ready to open things up.
Step-by-Step Cleaning of the Bobbin Area Removing the Needle Plate and Bobbin Case
- Lift the presser foot and snap off the foot if it’s in your way.
- Turn the handwheel to bring the needle fully up.
- Using the T-screw, loosen the two short plate screws; finish unscrewing with your fingers.
- Park those tiny screws in a tray or magnet—guard them with your life.
- Remove the bobbin cover and use the T-screw to gently pry up the needle plate.
- Take out the bobbin and remove the bobbin case. This exposes the hook area and surrounding lint traps. Keep movements light and controlled.
Thoroughly Cleaning Your Bobbin Case Use a cleaning swab to sweep inside the bobbin case. Turn it over and work into the back-side channels. Swabs grab lint and residue—often more than you realize.
Inspecting for Damage and Tension Issues Now examine the bobbin case in good light. Common red flags:
- Punctures or fractures from needle strikes.
- Scratches or burrs, especially on the top edges and sides where thread glides.
- Missing pieces along the rim.
Any burrs can catch thread and wreak havoc on tension and consistency. If you find damage, replace the bobbin case—don’t try to “make do.” The video shows dramatic examples of damaged cases that will not stitch well.
From the comments Several sewists report that a bobbin-case burr can be the root cause of knocking or noisy stitches. Before you chase other gremlins, inspect your case for rough spots. sewing and embroidery machine
Lubricating Key Components for Smooth Operation Oiling the Hook Area: A Critical Step Under the needle plate is a small brush-like part near the hook area. It belongs there—do not remove it. It helps the thread cutter reduce bunching at the start of a seam.
With a precision oiling pen, place exactly one drop of oil in the indicated hook spot, then spread it lightly with the tip or a swab. This is not a “more is better” moment—one drop, spread thin, is the rule. Over-oiling attracts lint.
Next, lubricate the outer ring of the hook unit by dabbing a tiny amount of oil onto a swab and “polishing” the ring. This reduces dryness and can quiet a slightly louder machine. Rotate the handwheel toward you to access all angles.
Clean Around the Feed Dogs and Needle Bar Use swabs to clean lint from the channels between the feed dogs. This is a common source of drag and uneven feeding if neglected. Then sweep away any fluff around the needle bar area that’s accessible from the throat plate opening.
Quick check
- The small brush near the cutter is intact.
- No visible lint remains in the hook area or feed-dog channels.
- Surfaces look lightly polished, not wet.
- You’re set up for a quick test sew on scrap after reassembly. magnetic embroidery hoop
Maintaining the Needle Bar and Threader Mechanism Accessing and Cleaning the Side Compartment If your machine feels dry or slightly hesitant at the needle area—and especially if you haven’t serviced it in a year—remove the side cover:
- With a Phillips screwdriver, remove one screw on the back side of the head.
- Remove the second screw by the needle threader. Hold the cover as you remove the last screw; it can drop suddenly.
- Clean the inside of the cover and visible interior areas with swabs or a vacuum. Do not touch grease or connections; they’re for technicians.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needle; this exposes more of the needle bar shaft and alignment points. You’re just creating access—not going deeper into mechanisms.
Oiling the Needle Bar and Threader Shaft Apply two to three tiny drops of oil to a swab. Wipe the needle bar shaft lightly—think “sheen,” not “wet.” If your needle threader feels dry or sluggish, pull it down and gently wipe a hairline of oil on its shaft using the swab. Avoid dripping. Refrain from touching other parts or electronics.
Watch out Inside the head there are greased gears and electrical connections. Leave those alone. If a deeper service is needed, a professional tech will handle it. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines
Final Reassembly and Important Reminders Putting Your Machine Back Together
- Reinstall the cleaned bobbin case. Align the opening toward the back; seat the black nub against the metal stopper. You’ll feel it magnet into place.
- Slide the needle plate on, align it, and reinstall the two screws (finger tight first, then snug with the T-screw).
- Replace the bobbin and the cover.
- For the side cover, slide and seat it, then reinstall the threader-side screw first, followed by the rear screw.
Test Sewing and Ongoing Maintenance Tips
- Run a quick test seam on scrap fabric after oiling to be sure there’s no excess oil on the stitch path.
- Listen: a dry clank often softens after the light “polish” in the hook area.
- Clean under the plate regularly; frequency depends on what and how much you sew.
- Inspect the needle plate for burrs. If you see them, they can snag thread and affect tension.
- Feed dogs: keep those channels lint-free for consistent feeding.
- Needles: swapping to a fresh needle after projects helps stitch quality.
- Hook oiling cadence: the video suggests every six months to a year, depending on use; the needle bar is typically a once-a-year touch-up, or when it feels dry/noisy.
From the comments: real-world Q&A
- “Can I use canned air?” No—use a vacuum with a narrow nozzle or swabs to extract lint. Several viewers stress this, and the host demonstrates vacuuming as the preferred method.
- “I pulled out the little fuzzy/brush by the bobbin—did I ruin the cutter?” The small brush helps with lint and start-bunching after cutting. It isn’t the cutter. If your cutter stalled, carefully look for threads or lint obstructing its movement.
- “How often should I service?” A yearly pro service is recommended in the comments; diligent at-home cleaning can help you stretch the interval.
- “Knocking on the F600—oil?” One commenter pointed to a bobbin-case burr as the likely culprit. Check for scratches or punctures first.
- “Presser foot down not recognized (F300)?” This wasn’t addressed with a fix in the thread. If cleaning and reseating parts doesn’t help, consult a technician.
- “Sharpening the cutter?” Not covered; no user procedure is provided in the video or thread.
Watch out Under the needle plate is a purpose-built brush-like piece near the thread cutter. Do not remove it. If it has fallen off in your machine, you may notice more bunching at the start of seams when using the cutter; it is not a user-replaceable part per the video.
Pro tip Use swabs to apply oil: place a drop on the swab, not directly on parts, when you want extra control. This is especially helpful for lightly “polishing” the outer ring of the hook.
Quick check Before your next project: re-confirm the bobbin case orientation (opening to back, nub aligned), stitch a few test seams, and wipe away any trace oil on the plate.
Note on offers and resources The video mentions a limited-time 10% accessories offer using code “YOUTUBE,” initially through the end of August 2022 (later extended in replies through September). If you’re watching after those dates, the promotion may be expired.
Who benefits from this routine? Anyone sewing regularly on a Juki computerized model will see steadier tension, quieter operation, and fewer surprises mid-seam after this 20–30 minute refresh. If you stitch on quilts or dense fabrics that shed lint, you may want to do the quick lint sweep more often between projects. embroidery machine for beginners
If you also embroider Embroidery generates fine lint fast. The same cleaning cadence applies between long stitch-outs—especially if you pair your Juki with an embroidery setup. Keeping the hook and feed-dog areas clear helps avoid thread nests during trims and tie-offs. machine embroidery hoops
Care crossovers for hybrid setups If you run a hybrid sewing-and-embroidery workflow, the maintenance steps above support smooth trimming and precise feed—whether you’re piecing, topstitching, or stabilizing dense designs. Many readers who rotate between garments and decor projects say a quick bobbin-area sweep after refilling the bobbin keeps things on track. embroidery hoops
Future-proofing your stitch quality Make “clean, inspect, one-drop oil, test sew” your mantra. It’s a short ritual that prevents setbacks during deadline projects and keeps computerized features behaving as designed. If something sounds off or feels rough after cleaning, stop and re-check the bobbin case and needle plate for burrs; if the issue persists, it’s time to call a technician. magnetic embroidery frames
Essentials recap
- Unplug the machine before opening covers.
- Lift presser foot and bring the needle up before removing the plate.
- Vacuum lint; don’t blow it in.
- Clean and inspect the bobbin case; replace if scratched or fractured.
- One drop of oil in the hook area; lightly polish the outer ring with an oiled swab.
- Clean feed-dog channels.
- If needed, lightly oil the needle bar and threader shaft via the side cover.
- Reassemble, test sew, and enjoy smoother stitching. magnetic embroidery hoop