Run, Satin, and Fill: The Only 3 Stitch Types You Need to Digitize (and Stitch) Almost Anything

The Foundation of All Designs: The 3 Main Stitch Types

If you have ever looked at a “wow” embroidery file—shading, texture, tiny details—and thought, “I could never digitize that,” here is the reality: most machine embroidery effects are built from only three stitch families.

Machine embroidery is not magic; it is engineering. It is the physical act of pushing a needle through fabric and locking it with a bobbin thread. To master it, you must understand the three fundamental building blocks:

• Run stitch (A single line; the skeleton of your design).
• Satin stitch (A zigzag column; the borders and bold text).
• Tatami / Fill stitch (A structured fill; the floorboards covering large areas).

Once you understand how each one behaves under the physical stress of high-speed stitching—and which settings actually matter—you can start building designs that stitch reliably, without breaking needles or puckering your fabric.

Why this matters beyond the software

Digitizing choices directly affect the physics at the machine: stitch count, snag risk, puckering, and how hard the fabric is being pulled inside the hoop. Thread bas tension. If you are learning the nuances of hooping for embroidery machine operations, realize that stitch mechanics are often the hidden culprit. If a design has poor stitch pathing, even the tightest hooping technique won't save it from shifting.

Software note (from the comments)

Several viewers asked what program is shown in the reference visuals. The creator confirmed it is Embroidery Legacy Digitizing Software, but the physics principles apply to Wilcom, Hatch, Embrilliance, and all major platforms.

The Running Stitch: More Than Just Outlines

A run stitch is the simplest stitch type: you place points, the software connects them, and the machine stitches a continuous line. Think of this as drawing with a pen, but the pen lifts and drops at specific intervals.

Step-by-step: Create a basic run stitch (and control the one setting that matters)

Core action: Plot points to create a line, then adjust Stitch Length.

1. Digitize the line by clicking points along your intended path (Left click for straight points, Right click for curves in most software).
2. Locate Stitch Length: Open the Properties panel.
3. Find the Sweet Spot: Start with the industry standard: 2.5 mm.
4. Observe the Change: Increase to see the effect (the video demonstrates 6.7 mm).
   • Sensory Check: On screen, the gaps between needle penetrations become visibly wider.
5. Avoid the Danger Zone: Do not go below 1.5 mm for standard outlining (the video mentions 0.1 mm as an extreme example).
   • Why? Extremely short stitches (under 1mm) act like a perforation stamp on a postage stamp. They will cut your fabric, causing it to tear or the needle to jam.

Checkpoints (what to look for on-screen):

• The “dots” (needle penetrations) should be evenly spaced.
• Curves should look smooth, not choppy (requires shorter stitch lengths on tight curves).

Expected outcomes:

• At 2.5 mm – 3.0 mm, you get a clean, continuous line suitable for outlining, underlay, and fine detail.
• At very large spacing (over 4mm), the line serves as a "basting stitch" to hold fabric down temporarily.

Run styles: Single vs Double vs Bean

The video shows three practical run styles that change the visual "weight" of the line:

• Single Run: One pass. Very thin. Used for underlay (the hidden foundation).
• Double Run: The machine stitches forward, then stitches backward on the exact same path. Used for connecting parts of the design invisibly.
• Bean Stitch (Triple Run): A heavy, hand-stitched look created by a "Forward-Back-Forward" sequence. This is bold and decorative.

Pro tip (from common viewer confusion): If you saw the timestamp comment calling out “6 7,” that refers to the stitch-length demonstration where spacing becomes remarkably wide. This is for educational visualization only; do not digitize detailed outlines at 6.7mm, or the loops will be loose enough to catch on a button.

Where run stitches shine in real designs

The tutorial’s examples show run stitch doing more than “connecting” objects:

• Redwork: A vintage style built to stitch continuously with minimal jumps/trims. It uses double run or bean stitch effectively.
• Abstract sketch effects: Multiple colors of run stitches layered to create an artistic, low-stitch-count look.
• Texture (fire/chaos effects): Short, randomized run stitches placed to simulate intensity without the bulk of a fill.

Commercial Context: If you are trying to scale production, run-stitch-heavy designs (like Redwork) are incredibly profitable. They have low stitch counts and run fast.

Practical hooping note (physics you’ll feel at the machine)

Run stitches do not "lock" fabric down the way fills do. They "walk" across the surface. On soft or stretchy garments (like performance wear), a run-only design can distort if the fabric shifts.

• The Fix: You must use a stabilizer that matches the fabric's stretch (e.g., Cutaway for knits). If you notice the outline doesn't meet the start point perfectly, your fabric moved in the hoop.

Mastering the Satin Stitch: Density and Width Rules

A satin stitch is a zigzag that travels from one side of a column to the other, producing a smooth, glossy, rope-like effect. It is the most beautiful stitch, but also the most prone to issues like "puckering."

Step-by-step: Build a satin column that stitches cleanly

Core action: Define the column rails (width), then tune density (coverage).

1. Create the Column: Use the Classic Satin tool to digitize a column by placing points (Rail A) and counter-points (Rail B).
2. Check Angles: Rotate or curve the object as needed—the stitch angle creates the "shine" by reflecting light.
3. Set Density: Set Density to the industry baseline: 0.40 mm.
   • Translation: This means there is 0.4 mm of space between each thread loop.
   • Sensory Check: Stitches should look solid. If you see the background grid validly through the preview, it is too loose.
4. Test Variations: Test a looser density (the video demonstrates 1.5 mm) to see gaps appear. This is used for creating "open" shading.

Checkpoints:

• Zoom In: You should see the “accordion” zigzag rail-to-rail.
• Touch Test (Mental): A good satin stitch should feel slightly raised and smooth, like a ribbon.

Expected outcomes:

• Smooth, clean edges (perfect for text and borders).
• High sheen (due to long, uninterrupted threads).

The two satin rules from the tutorial (and why they exist)

The video gives clear width guidance. Memorize these Safe Zones:

• Minimum satin width: 1 mm (Absolute Minimum).
  • Real World Advice: Aim for 1.5 mm or wider. A 1 mm satin often sinks into the pile of towels or fleece, disappearing completely.
• Maximum satin width: 12 mm (Absolute Maximum).
  • Real World Advice: Most machines slow down drastically around 10 mm.

Why this matters:

• Too Narrow: Breaks needles and creates a hard "knot" feel.
• Too Wide: Creates long, loose loops that snag on jewelry or wash out poorly.

Auto Split: the safety net for wide satins

What if you need a shape wider than 12 mm? Do not force a long satin. Instead, enable Auto Split.

• The video shows an Auto Split value of 7.0 mm.
• This instructs the software: "If a stitch is longer than 7mm, drop a needle point in the middle to tack it down." This preserves the look of satin but adds durability (Tatami texture).

Pro tip (from the comments): Automation helps, but it is not a cure-all. Auto-splitting is excellent for wide lettering or logos, preventing them from becoming "snag hazards."

Warning: Mechanical Hazard. Satin columns that exceed the machine’s practical width limits (usually >12mm without splitting) can cause the needle bar to hit the presser foot or the hoop frame, potentially shattering the needle. Always preview your design.

Hooping + satin: where puckering and “hoop burn” show up

Satin stitches effectively convert your thread into a "cinch strap." As the satin stitches, it pulls the fabric inward (Pull Compensation). If your hooping is loose, the fabric will pleat and pucker around the satin column.

The "Hoop Burn" Dilemma: To fight puckering, people often tighten traditional hoops so much that they crush the fabric fibers, leaving a permanent ring known as "hoop burn."

The Solution Path:

1. Technique: Ensure your hoop tension mimics a "drum skin"—taut but not stretched.
2. Tool Upgrade: If you are struggling with delicate fabrics, magnetic embroidery hoops are the professional solution. They hold the fabric firmly using magnetic force rather than friction, significantly reducing hoop burn while maintaining the tension required for crisp satins.
3. Production Scale: For repeat jobs, pairing these hoops with a magnetic hooping station ensures you hoop the garment in the exact same spot every time, cutting setup time in half.

The Tatami Fill: Adding Texture and Bases

A tatami/fill stitch (or Ceider stitch) is simply a run stitch laid down in rows to cover a solid area. The tutorial calls fills “the bassist of the band”—they provide the stable background rhythm that lets the satin "solos" shine.

Step-by-step: Use fill stitches for coverage and texture

Core action: Apply a fill, then explore patterns and angles.

1. Select the Shape: Apply a Tatami/Fill stitch type to a closed shape.
2. Browse the Library: Open the Fill Pattern library. Standard Tatami is smooth, but you can choose patterns like "brick," "wave," or "snake skin."
3. Adjust Density: Controls coverage using the same logic as Satin (Standard = 0.40 mm).
4. Adjust Stitch Length: Controls the texture. A longer stitch length (e.g., 4.5mm) creates a glossier fill; a shorter one (3.0mm) creates a matte, durable fill.

Checkpoints:

• Stitch Angle: Ensure the angle of the fill contrasts with any satin text on top of it (e.g., Fill at 45°, Text at 90°) to prevent the text from sinking in.
• Coverage: Depending on fabric color contrast (e.g., white thread on black fabric), you may need slightly higher density (0.38 mm).

Expected outcomes:

• A stable, uniform field of color.
• A "floor" that prevents fabric from shifting, ideal for stabilizing stretchy materials before adding detail.

Decision tree: Choose stitch type + stabilizing mindset

Use this logic flow before you digitize or setup your machine:

1. Is the area a thin line or detail?
   • Yes → Run stitch
     • Need boldness? → Bean stitch
     • Vintage look? → Double run
2. Is the area a border, text, or clean edge (< 10 mm wide)?
   • Yes → Satin stitch
     • Is it wider than 7mm? → Enable Auto Split (set to ~7 mm) to prevent snags.
3. Is the area large coverage or a background?
   • Yes → Tatami/Fill
     • Want texture/fur? → Choose a directional pattern.
4. Does the fabric distort easily (knits, thin tees)?
   • Crucial: Use Fills as a base to lock the fabric, then layer details. Use Cutaway stabilizer. Consider magnetic frames to hold the knit without stretching it during the hooping process.

Comment-driven “watch out”: natural-looking fur

A viewer asked how to digitize realistic dog fur. The answer lies in manipulating Tatami Fills.

• Method: Use a Tatami fill with a "random" or "jagged" edge profile.
• Direction: Use multiple fill objects with different stitch angles to mimic the way fur grows on an animal's body.
• Detail: Layer selective Run Stitches on top for whiskers.

Combining Stitches for Complex Digitizing Results

Professional digitizing is not about using complex tools; it is about layering these three simple tools effectively.

Example 1: Redwork horse (Efficiency)

The redwork example is a masterclass in pathing. It uses double run stitches planned so the machine almost never trims or stops.

• Why stick to this? Speed. A low stitch count (video notes 2,000 stitches) design can run in 3-4 minutes.
• Checkpoint: Watch the simulator. The line should flow continuously like handwriting, not jump around.

Example 2: Artistic run-stitch layering (Expressive)

The abstract horseman example uses only running stitches of different colors. It achieves high visual impact with low stitch count (3,600 stitches). This style is profitable because it looks high-end but stitches quickly.

Example 3: Satin shading + run details (Anime Eye)

This breakdown shows the "Layering Rule":

1. Base: Tatami (Whites/Iris base).
2. Shading: Satins with lower density (gradient effect).
3. Detail: Run stitches for sharp outlines (eyelashes/pupil).

Production-minded workflow: hobby mode vs shop mode

If you stitch one-off gifts, efficiency matters less. But if you are filling an order for 50 shirts, seconds add up.

The Efficiency Ladder:

1. Skill Level: Optimize stitch paths to reduce trims.
2. Tool Level: If loading garments is your bottleneck, a hooping station for embroidery standardizes placement, reducing "re-hoops" caused by crooked loading.
3. System Level: For standardized logos (left chest), a template-based hoop master embroidery hooping station workflow eliminates measuring tapes.
4. Machine Level: If you are hitting the limit of a single-needle machine, moving to a Multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH’s high-value models) allows you to queue colors without manual thread changes, drastically increasing output.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Powerful magnetic frames are game-changers for production, but they pinch hard. Keep fingers clear of the snapping zone. Keep magnets away from pacemakers, credit cards, and computerized machine screens.

Prep

Digitizing is "software work," but clean results depend on physical preparation. Here is the pre-flight check to prevent frustration.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (The items novices forget)

• Needles: Are they sharp? A dull needle pushes fabric down, causing "flagging" and skipped stitches. (Standard: 75/11 Ballpoint for knits, Sharp for wovens).
• Adhesives: Temporary spray adhesive (like KK100) helps float fabric.
• Oiling: Has your machine been oiled recently? A dry hook assembly creates noise and tension issues.
• Thread: 40 wt polyester is standard. Ensure your bobbin tension is balanced (drop test).

Comment-driven pro tip: file formats and machine compatibility

Viewers asked about formats like .JEF and .PES. The software shown exports to all major machine formats.

• Compatibility Note: If you are a Brother user looking for upgrades like magnetic embroidery hoops for brother, always cross-reference your specific machine model (e.g., PE800 vs NQ1600) with the hoop's bracket type. Hoop attachment points vary even within the same brand.

Prep Checklist (Do not skip)

• Needle Check: Is the needle new and appropriate for the fabric?
• Bobbin Check: Is there enough bobbin thread for the full design?
• Stabilizer Choice: Cutaway for stretch, Tearaway for stable woven.
• Hoop Check: Confirm the hoop fits the design size (leaving 10-20mm buffer).
• Clearance: Ensure the machine arm has space to move freely.

Setup

Step-by-step setup inside the software

1. Assign Stitch Types: Map your design art to Run, Satin, or Fill.
2. Configure Run Stitch:
   • Set length to 2.5 mm.
   • Select style (Single for underlay, Beam/Triple for visible outlines).
3. Configure Satin:
   • Set density to 0.40 mm.
   • Check widths (Safe Zone: 1.5 mm – 7.0 mm).
   • Enable Auto Split if >7.0 mm.
   • Critical: Add "Underlay" (Center Run or Edge Run) to stabilize the column.
4. Configure Fill:
   • Select pattern.
   • Add Tatami Underlay (perpendicular to top stitch) to prevent shifting.

Setup Checklist (Software to Drive)

• Underlay: Verified that all Satins and Fills have underlay enabled.
• Density: Confirmed no objects have dangerous density (<0.30 mm).
• Pathing: Reviewed the "Slow Redraw" / Simulator to minimize jump stitches.
• Export: File saved in the correct format (.DST, .PES, etc.) for your machine.

Operation

This is where the rubber meets the road. Watch your machine; do not walk away during the start.

Step-by-step: Test stitch-out workflow

1. The Scrap Test: Always stitch on a scrap of similar fabric first.
2. The First Layer: Watch the first 500 stitches (usually underlay).
   • Sensory: Listen for a smooth, rhythmic "chug-chug." If you hear a sharp "click-click," your needle may be hitting the needle plate or a burr.
3. Tension Check: Look at the back of the embroidery. You should see 1/3 bobbin thread in the center column.
4. The Pause: Inspect after the base fill is done. Is it puckering? If yes, stop. Your stabilization or hooping is too loose.

Checkpoints & expected outcomes

• Run stitch: No looping on top (tension good); no tunneling (hooping good).
• Satin stitch: Edges are straight. No fabric showing through (density good).
• Fill stitch: Flat and smooth. No "waffle" texture (which indicates fabric shifting).

Operation Checklist (During Start-up)

• Thread Path: Thread is seated deep in the tension disks (floss it in!).
• Hoop Security: Hoop is locked firmly into the machine arm.
• Clearance: Fabric is not bunched under the hoop (a common error that sews the shirt shut).

Quality Checks

What “good” looks like (Tactile Inspection)

• Feel: Run your fingers over the embroidery. It should feel pliable, not like a bulletproof vest (unless that was the goal).
• Edges: Satin borders should register perfectly with the fill. No gaps (white space) between border and fill.
• Backside: The back should be neat. Avoid "bird's nests" (tangles).

Efficiency check (For business owners)

If you are quoting jobs, stitch count is only half the cost equation. The other half is labor. If you spend 5 minutes hooping a shirt and 5 minutes stitching it, you have cut your profit in half.

• The Adjustment: Professional shops use tools like hoopmaster systems or magnetic frames to drop hooping time to under 30 seconds.

Troubleshooting

Use this decision matrix when things go wrong. Always start with the physical (Machine/Thread) before changing the digital (Software).

Specific Note on Puckering

If the design looks great in software but puckers on fabric, the issue is almost always Stabilization or Hooping.

Results

You can simplify nearly every digitizing challenge by asking one question: “Am I drawing a line, building a border, or covering a floor?”

• Run stitch: The pencil. Draws lines and details. Keep stitch length >2.0 mm.
• Satin stitch: The marker. Builds borders and text. Keep width 1.5–7.0 mm and density around 0.40 mm.
• Tatami/Fill: The paint roller. Covers areas. Provides the stability for everything else.

Once you start combining these building blocks intentionally—and respecting the physical limits of your fabric—you will stop fighting your machine and start producing professional-grade embroidery.

If you are stuck on a specific design (e.g., "My satin lettering is sinking into the towel"), check your topping (solvy), check your density, and ensure your hoop is not crushing the pile. Happy stitching