Stop Fighting the BabyLock Ellure Multi-Position Hoop: Split a .PES in HoopWorks So “Top” and “Bottom” Actually Match

Multi-position hoops are supposed to feel like a cheat code: one hooping, two stitch-outs, and a design that looks like it was done in a bigger field.

But when the “Top” file doesn’t land on the “Bottom” file, it’s not just annoying—it’s the kind of mismatch that makes you question your hoop, your software, and your sanity. We call this the "Heartbreak Gap," and it usually happens right in the middle of a customer's logo.

This post rebuilds the exact HoopWorks workflow shown for BabyLock Ellure/Ellure Plus (and the same concept applies to Sofia owners using a multi-position hoop). I’ll also add the practical alignment checks I’ve learned over 20 years on the production floor—especially for tricky cases like appliqué letters that get duplicated across the split.

The Calm-Down Truth About the BabyLock Ellure Multi-Position Hoop: You’re Not “Bad at Hooping”—You’re Missing One Key Setup

If you’re doing hooping for embroidery machine projects and you’re trying to manually re-hoop for the second half of a large design, you’re setting yourself up for a nightmare. Physics is working against you.

The whole point of a BabyLock multi-position hoop (often the 5" x 12" or "Jumbo" frame) is that you do one hooping and then the hoop itself snaps into the machine in two different attachment positions—a top position and a bottom position. The fabric and stabilizer act as a single, unified bridge. You move the frame, never the fabric.

HoopWorks is valuable here because it acts as a translator. It takes a design that fits inside the total multi-position area and mathematically slices it into two stitch files that share a specific coordinate system.

What HoopWorks is not (in this video): a fun way to split a gigantic design into many sections across multiple hoopings. That’s possible, but it’s tedious and easy to mess up without a camera system.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Open HoopWorks: Make Sure Your Design Is Eligible to Split Cleanly

Before you click anything, you need one reality check: HoopWorks can only split what already exists. It cannot invent pixels.

In the video, the design was created earlier in Designer’s Gallery EmbroideryWorks (simple lettering), then opened in HoopWorks as a .PES.

That means your prep is less about “software magic” and more about making sure the design:

• Fits within the total multi-position hoop area (usually 130mm x 300mm for this class of machine).
• Won’t create a weird overlap at the split line.
• Won’t force you into risky trimming or repositioning mid-process.

A common comment-thread pain point was appliqué lettering (example: “BIG”) where a letter (like “I”) appears in both halves and still won’t align. That’s a clue that the design structure may not be friendly to splitting—even if the hoop size is correct.

Prep Checklist (do this before you touch the hoop icon)

Successful splitting starts with the right ingredients. Don't skip these "Hidden Consumables":

• Fresh Needle: A size 75/11 Sharp (for wovens) or Ballpoint (for knits). A dull needle deflects, causing micro-shifts.
• Temporary Adhesive: A light mist of 505 spray to bond fabric to stabilizer prevents "creep" during the long stitch time.
• Marker: A water-soluble pen to mark your physical center crosshairs.

The Pre-Flight Check:

• Field Limits: Confirm your machine’s embroidery field limits (Ellure is shown as 5x7; Sofia is shown as 4x4) and remember the multi-position hoop extends the usable length, not width.
• Test File: Start with a simple test design (outline lettering or low-stitch design) before you burn time on dense fills or appliqué.
• File Format: Make sure you already have a finished embroidery file to load (the video loads a .PES).
• Storage: Decide where you’ll save output (USB flash drive / “Removable Disk” is demonstrated).
• Stitch Order Strategy: Plan your stitch order: you can sew Top then Bottom, or Bottom then Top—but you must be consistent.

Warning: Mechanical Hazard. Keep fingers, hair, and loose sleeves away from the needle area when you later stitch the Top/Bottom files. Multi-position work tempts people to "hover and watch" the connection point, and that is when accidental needle strikes and scissor slips happen.

Open a .PES in Designer’s Gallery HoopWorks Without Guessing: The Folder Icon With the Green Arrow

In HoopWorks, the video shows opening the design using the toolbar icon that looks like a folder with a green arrow. This is your import trigger.

1. Locate: Click the folder/green-arrow icon.
2. Navigate: Go to your working directory.
3. Selection: Select your embroidery file (the example is “Hoopworks.pes”).
4. Execute: Click Open.

Visual Check: The design should appear centered in the main workspace. If it opens huge and falls off the screen, your original file scaling is likely wrong.

The Make-or-Break Click: Selecting the “130 x 300 Jumbo Hoop” (Even Though It Doesn’t Say “Ellure”)

This is where most people get burned and why they end up searching for babylock hoops compatibility charts. The software hoop list likely will not show your specific machine name.

In the video, the instructor is blunt about it—you have to “magically know” which hoop profile matches your machine’s multi-position hoop. If you pick a standard 5x7 hoop here, the software will not split the file.

For the BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop shown, the correct selection is:

• 130 x 300 Jumbo Hoop

To select it:

1. Click the hoop icon in the top toolbar (hover text shows “Hoops available”).
2. In the “Hoop Descriptions” list, scroll down to find 130 x 300 Jumbo Hoop.
3. Select it and click OK.

Success Metric: The workspace updates. You should now see the design overlaid on a hoop template that has distinctive dashed/pink split indicators running horizontally.

Setup Checklist (your alignment insurance policy)

• Dimension Verification: Match hoops by dimensions (mm), not by machine name. Confirm 130 x 300 is selected.
• Visual Confirmation: Verify you see the split zones (dashed/pink lines) in the workspace. If the lines cut through a crucial detail (like an eye or small text), move the design slightly up or down.
• Note Taking: If you regularly do large lettering, write "Use 130x300 Profile" on a sticky note on your monitor.
• Control Group: If your design includes appliqué, plan a quick “non-appliqué control test” first (outline text) to confirm your workflow is correct before blaming the hoop.
  

Read the Hoop Template Like a Pro: What the Split Lines and Attachment Brackets Are Really Telling You

The video pauses to explain what looks confusing at first. This isn't just a drawing; it's a map of your machine's physical limits.

• The Field: One section represents a single stitch field (for Ellure, think “one 5x7 area”).
• The Frame: The full multi-position hoop is physically longer (approx 12 inches), but your machine can't reach all of it at once.
• The Magic: The hoop has attachment points/brackets on the side. These let you mount it in a top position and a bottom position.

HoopWorks uses that physical reality to split your design into two files. You stitch one file with the hoop attached in Position A. Then, without un-hooping the fabric, you unclip the hoop from the machine arm and snap it back onto the machine arm using the Position B brackets.

This is why multi-position hooping is so powerful for multi hooping machine embroidery: the alignment is mechanical (fixed plastic brackets), not “eyeballed” (human guessing).

Save the Split Files to a USB Flash Drive: The Floppy Disk Icon (and the Weird “Select” Button)

Once the hoop is set and the split lines look safe, the video shows saving via the floppy disk icon.

1. Click the floppy disk icon.
2. A folder selection dialog appears.
3. Drive Hygiene: Use the drive dropdown/arrow to find your USB flash drive (usually Removable Disk). Pro Tip: Ensure your USB is 4GB or smaller and formatted to FAT32 for older BabyLock machines.
4. Choose the destination folder.
5. Click Select (Note: the program confusingly uses “Select” where you’d expect “Save”).

Expected outcome: HoopWorks generates two completely new files automatically.

Verify HoopWorks Output Before You Leave the Computer: You Should See “Top” and “Bottom” .PES Files

Never walk to the machine without checking your payload. The video demonstrates a simple verification trick: open the file browser and look in the folder you saved to.

You should see:

• One file ending in Top (e.g., design_top.pes)
• One file ending in Bottom (e.g., design_bottom.pes)

In the example, the filenames appear like “Hoopworks Top_#2.PES” and “Hoopworks Bottom_#1.PES.” Pay attention to the numbers! Sometimes the software suggests stitching the Bottom first (#1) based on optimizing the split. Follow the numbered order.

Sewing Out the Top/Bottom Files on a BabyLock Multi-Position Hoop: The One Rule That Prevents 90% of Misalignment

Here’s the clean operational sequence described, optimized for safety:

1. Hooping: Hoop your fabric once in the multi-position hoop. Ensure it sounds like a drum when tapped.
2. Load: Load the file marked #1 (usually Bottom or Top).
3. Attach: Snap the hoop onto the machine using the corresponding brackets. You should hear a firm 'click'.
4. Stitch: Run the first file.
5. Move: Unhook the hoop. Do not remove fabric. Move the hoop to the other set of brackets.
6. Load: Load the file marked #2.
7. Stitch: Run the second file.

Expected outcome: The two halves link up automatically. The software usually builds in a tiny overlap (0.5mm - 1mm) to ensure no gaps appear.

Operation Checklist (what I’d watch like a hawk in a real shop)

• File Match: Confirm you loaded "Top" when the hoop is in the "Top" brackets. (Top File = Top Brackets).
• Cable Management: Ensure the fabric isn't bunching behind the needle bar, which is common with long hoops.
• Hands Off: Don’t “help” the fabric feeding. Pushing or pulling creates "flagging," which ruins alignment.
• Organization: If you’re using embroidery machine hoops for production batches, create a subfolder on your USB for each job so Top/Bottom pairs never get mixed up.
  

When Top and Bottom Don’t Line Up: The Fast Troubleshooting Map (Including the Appliqué Letter Trap)

Misalignment is usually one of three categories: wrong hoop profile, wrong physical position, or a design structure that doesn’t split cleanly.

Symptom → Cause → Fix

The "Appliqué Trap" Detail: If you see the "I" appearing in both files, the design’s stop commands are confusing the splitter. Use the "Sizing" or "Move" tools in HoopWorks to shift the design up or down by 10mm so the pink split line lands in the white space between your letters.

The “Why” Behind Clean Alignment: Hooping Physics, Fabric Stability, and Why Multi-Position Hoops Beat Manual Re-Hooping

Even though this video is software-only, the stitch-out success depends on physics.

1) Hooping physics: distortion is the silent killer

Fabric under tension is alive. It wants to shrink. When you use a multi-position hoop, you maintain constant tension across the Whole design. If you tried to re-hoop manually, the tension on the Top half would never match the Bottom half, causing puckering.

If you routinely fight "hoop burn" (white rings on dark fabric), inconsistent clamping, or hand fatigue, that’s the moment to look at tools like magnetic embroidery hoops. These use strong magnets instead of friction to hold fabric, reducing the "burn" marks and making it easier to slide long fabric sections without un-hooping.

2) Material choices still matter

A multi-position hoop is huge. That means there is more surface area for the fabric to bounce (flagging).

• The Rule: Stabilize more than you think you need.
• The Fix: For knits, use a fusible Cut-Away mesh. For terry cloth, use a heavy Tear-Away plus a water-soluble topper (Solvy).

3) Production mindset: the real win is repeatability

If you’re doing one gift, you can fidddle. If you’re doing 50 shirts, you need a process. This is where a hooping station for machine embroidery keeps your placement consistent from shirt #1 to shirt #50, reducing the physical strain on your wrists.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. If you upgrade to magnetic frames/hoops, respect the magnet power. They can pinch skin severely and snap together with force. Pacemaker Warning: Keep strong magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.

A Simple Decision Tree: Stabilizer + Hooping Choices for Multi-Position Success (So You Don’t Waste a Whole Shirt)

Use this logic flow before you press start:

1. Is the fabric stable (Canvas, Denim, Twill)?
   • Yes: Use Tear-Away stabilizer. Hoop normally.
   • No: Go to Step 2.
2. Is it Stretchy (T-shirt, Performance Knit)?
   • Yes: You MUST use Cut-Away stabilizer (fusible preferred). Do not float; hoop the stabilizer and fabric together for maximum rigidity in the large hoop.
   • No: Go to Step 3.
3. Is it Thick/Plush (Towels, Fleece)?
   • Yes: Use a Magnetic Hoop (if available) to avoid crushing the pile (hoop burn). Use a water-soluble topper.
   • No: Standard hoop is fine.
4. Are you splitting a dense design ( > 20,000 stitches)?
   • Yes: Slow your machine speed down (500-600 SPM) near the split line to ensure accuracy.

The Upgrade Path (Without the Hard Sell): When Tools Actually Pay for Themselves

If your current pain is “I can do it, but it’s slow and stressful,” you don’t need more willpower—you need fewer failure points.

Here’s a practical upgrade ladder used in professional shops:

1. Level 1: The "No-Burn" Upgrade
   If standard hoops are leaving permanent rings on your delicate garments, consider a babylock magnetic embroidery hoop. They hold fabric without the "crush," essential for velvet or performance wear.
2. Level 2: The "Wrist-Saver"
   If you are doing repeat orders (team jerseys), a hooping station combined with magnetic frames reduces the force needed to hoop. It turns a wrestling match into a 5-second slide-and-snap. This is often where semi-pros start researching how to use magnetic embroidery hoop videos to speed up workflow.
3. Level 3: The "Volume Breaker"
   If you are outgrowing single-needle pace (e.g., spending more time changing thread colors than sewing), a multi-needle machine (like our SEWTECH multi-needle line) changes the game. It handles larger fields natively (often without splitting!) and automates color changes.

Final Reality Check: What HoopWorks Does Perfectly—and What You Still Have to Control

HoopWorks (as shown) does one job extremely well: it handles the coordinate math.

Your job is the physical execution:

• Pick the 130 x 300 profile.
• Save to USB.
• Verify Two Files.
• Hoop Tightly and stabilize heavily.

If you’re still not lining up, don’t start by blaming yourself. Test with a simple distinct shape (like a square) first. Once that aligns, you’ll know exactly where the real problem lives—usually in the fabric movement, not the machine.

FAQ

• Q: How do I select the correct hoop profile in Designer’s Gallery HoopWorks for the BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop so the design will split?
  A: Select the 130 x 300 Jumbo Hoop profile by dimensions, because HoopWorks may not list “BabyLock Ellure” by name.
  • Click the hoop icon (“Hoops available”) and choose 130 x 300 Jumbo Hoop, then click OK.
  • Confirm the workspace shows the hoop template with the dashed/pink split indicators.
  • Move the design slightly up/down if the split line cuts through critical details (small text, eyes, satin edges).
  • Success check: the split zones are visible and the design sits inside the full hoop template (not a standard 5x7 view).
  • If it still fails, re-open the file and verify you did not accidentally select a standard 5x7 hoop profile.
• Q: What “hidden prep” items prevent BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop Top/Bottom misalignment before opening HoopWorks?
  A: Use a fresh needle, light temporary adhesive, and physical center marks to prevent micro-shifts that look like software errors.
  • Install a fresh 75/11 needle (Sharp for wovens, Ballpoint for knits).
  • Mist 505 temporary spray to bond fabric to stabilizer and reduce fabric “creep” during long stitch time.
  • Mark center crosshairs with a water-soluble pen before hooping.
  • Success check: after hooping, the fabric feels drum tight when tapped and the fabric/stabilizer behave like one bonded layer.
  • If it still fails, run a simple low-stitch test design first to prove the workflow before blaming the design.
• Q: How do I confirm HoopWorks created the correct BabyLock Ellure split files before walking to the machine?
  A: Verify the USB folder contains exactly two new .PES files labeled Top and Bottom (often with #1 and #2).
  • Save using the floppy disk icon, choose the USB (often “Removable Disk”), then click the program’s Select button.
  • Open the destination folder and confirm you see one Top file and one Bottom file.
  • Follow the numbered order if HoopWorks labels one as #1 and the other as #2.
  • Success check: filenames clearly show Top/Bottom and the pair was saved to the intended USB location.
  • If it still fails, re-save to a known folder and avoid mixing multiple jobs in the same USB directory.
• Q: What is the #1 rule to prevent BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop “Heartbreak Gap” misalignment when stitching the Top and Bottom files?
  A: Match the Top file to the Top brackets and the Bottom file to the Bottom brackets, without un-hooping the fabric between runs.
  • Hoop the fabric once, then stitch file #1 with the hoop snapped into the correct bracket position.
  • Unhook the frame from the machine and move the frame to the other brackets (do not remove fabric from the hoop).
  • Load file #2 and stitch the second half.
  • Success check: you hear a firm click when attaching, and the join area shows a tiny intentional overlap (typically ~0.5–1 mm) rather than a gap.
  • If it still fails, double-check you didn’t stitch “Top” while mounted in “Bottom” brackets (or vice versa), which causes a consistent shift.
• Q: How do I troubleshoot BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop Top/Bottom misalignment when there is a consistent shift versus a gap in the middle?
  A: Use the symptom to pick the fastest fix: consistent shifts are usually bracket/file mismatch; gaps are usually fabric slip.
  • Re-check bracket logic for consistent shift: load Top only when the hoop is in Top brackets (same for Bottom).
  • Re-hoop tighter for a gap: tighten until drum tight and stabilize more (cut-away + light spray bonding is a common fix).
  • Clear table space and manage excess fabric so the long hoop doesn’t bump or drag during stitching.
  • Success check: the second half lands predictably in the same direction (shift issue) or closes the center join (slip issue) after the change.
  • If it still fails, verify the hoop profile is 130 x 300 Jumbo and confirm the split indicators appear in the template view.
• Q: Why does appliqué lettering (for example “BIG”) duplicate a letter in both HoopWorks Top and Bottom files on a BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop, and how do I fix the split?
  A: Do not split through appliqué elements; move the design so the split line falls in empty space between letters.
  • Look for the clue: a letter (often a narrow one like “I”) appears in both Top and Bottom outputs.
  • Use HoopWorks move tools to shift the design up/down (a small move like 10 mm is often enough) so the pink split line avoids appliqué stops.
  • Re-save and re-check that each letter belongs to only one half.
  • Success check: the split line runs through blank area, and the appliqué sequence for each letter stays in a single file.
  • If it still fails, test with a non-appliqué outline text file to confirm the hooping/bracket workflow is correct.
• Q: What safety rules should be followed when stitching BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop Top/Bottom files and when using magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Keep hands and loose items away from the needle area during split-point monitoring, and treat magnetic hoops as pinch hazards with pacemaker distance precautions.
  • Keep fingers, hair, and sleeves away from the needle zone—multi-position work tempts close watching at the join.
  • Avoid hovering with scissors near the needle path; stop the machine fully before trimming.
  • Handle magnetic hoops slowly: magnets can snap together and pinch skin severely.
  • Success check: you can observe alignment without placing hands near the moving needle bar, and magnets are separated/closed under control (no sudden snaps).
  • If it still fails, pause and re-position fabric management behind the needle area to prevent accidental snags while staying clear of moving parts.
• Q: When BabyLock Ellure multi-position hoop alignment problems keep happening, what is a practical upgrade path from technique fixes to magnetic hoops to a multi-needle machine?
  A: Start by reducing failure points in order: stabilize/hoop correctly first, then consider magnetic hoops for fabric handling, then consider a multi-needle machine for volume and fewer splits.
  • Level 1 (technique): increase stabilization, use light spray bonding, slow down near the split on dense designs, and test with a simple shape to confirm the process.
  • Level 2 (tool): consider magnetic hoops if hoop burn, clamping inconsistency, or long-hoop handling fatigue is causing repeat misalignment.
  • Level 3 (capacity): consider a multi-needle machine when production time is dominated by thread changes or frequent splitting stress.
  • Success check: the same design aligns repeatedly across multiple runs with fewer re-hoops, fewer gaps, and less operator “babysitting.”
  • If it still fails, isolate the variable by running a low-stitch control test; once the control aligns, the remaining issue is usually design structure or fabric movement.