Build a Neapolitan Ice Cream Bar in Baby Lock IQ Designer (Solaris 2): Clean Lines, Smooth Fills, Zero Puckers

If you’ve ever watched a “cute quick project” turn into puckered fabric, shifting layers, and a design that suddenly looks… not so cute—take a breath. Embroidery is physics, not magic.

The humble ice cream bar project is the perfect laboratory to master IQ Designer (or My Design Center) on your Baby Lock or Brother machine. Why? Because it forces you to practice the three disciplines that separate "homemade" from "professional": Shape Control, Boundary Discipline, and Stabilization Physics.

Jan’s project is built on the Baby Lock Solaris 2, but the logic applies to any machine with on-screen digitizing. You’ll build a Neapolitan ice cream bar from basic shapes, create "No Sew" zones, and—crucially—learn why stitching a background first is the secret weapon against puckering.

The “Don’t Panic” Primer: What This IQ Designer Ice Cream Bar Actually Teaches You

This isn't just a summer motif; it’s a masterclass in how your machine "thinks." Before we touch the screen, understand the four rules of IQ Designer:

1. Shapes are just containers: They only become stitches when you pour properties into them.
2. Lines can be ghosts: A line can exist as a "No Sew" barrier that stops color from bleeding, without ever stitching thread on your fabric.
3. Outlines are dangerous: If an outline cuts through a fill (like a stick entering ice cream), it looks amateur. We must erase intersections.
4. Stabilization is non-negotiable: On a loose item like a banner, if you don't stabilize, the fill stitches will shrink the fabric, ruining the outline registration.
   

The “Hidden” Prep: Banner Fabric, Stabilizer, and the Physics of Puckering

Dense fill stitches pull fabric inward on X and Y axes. On a banner or table-topper, this pull creates ripples (puckering) and causes outlines to misalign. Jan’s fix is a proven industry standard: Fuse + Float + Anchor.

The Professional Stabilization Stack:

1. Hoop the stabilizer only: Use a No-Show Mesh (Poly-mesh). It’s soft but strong. Sensory Check: It should feel like a soft fabric, not crunchy paper.
2. Fuse the fabric: Iron Shape Flex (SF101) to the back of your banner fabric. This adds necessary thread count and structure.
3. Float: You will place the fabric on top of the hooped mesh, rather than forcing the thick fabric into the hoop rings.
4. The Anchor: Jan stitches a stipple background first. This effectively bastes the fabric to the stabilizer before the heavy lifting begins.

**Prep Checklist: The "Go/No-Go" Pre-Flight**

(Do not proceed until all boxes are checked)

• Hoop Size: Confirmed 5x7 hoop selected on screen.
• Consumables: Fresh 75/11 Embroidery Needle installed (prevents fabric punctures).
• Stabilizer: No-show mesh is hooped drum-tight (listen for a deep thud when tapped).
• Interfacing: SF101 is fused to the wrong side of the target fabric.
• Thread Plan: Pink, Cream, Chocolate, Almond, Black, and a color for the stipple background.
  

Set Your Canvas in IQ Designer (5x7 Hoop)

Start in IQ Designer / My Design Center. Immediately select the 5x7 hoop on your screen background.

Pro Workflow Tip: In production environments, we always save a "Master File" (the clean art) before adding specific elements like stippling or lettering. This allows you to re-use the ice cream cone on a t-shirt or towel later without picking apart the stipple stitches.

Nail the Ice Cream Body with Shape 14 (4.00" H × 3.00" W)

Precision early saves frustration later. Don't eyeball this.

Action Steps:

1. Navigate to Shapes -> Shape 14 (the arch/tombstone shape).
2. Tap Size.
3. Unlock the aspect ratio (if linked) and enter:
   • Height: 4.00"
   • Width: 3.00"
4. Tap OK.
   

Add the Stick with Shape 15 (1.72" × 0.45")

Now, let's add the stick using Shape 15 (rounded rectangle).

Action Steps:

1. Select Shape 15.
2. Go to Size:
   • Length/Height: 1.72"
   • Width: 0.45"
3. Visual Alignment: Use the red alignment arrows to move the stick to the bottom center. It should overlap the bottom of the ice cream body slightly.
   

The Clean-Join Trick: Erase the Overlap at 400% Zoom

This step separates pros from amateurs. We need the stick and the body to merge into one silhouette, not look like stickers stacked on top of each other.

Action Steps:

1. Select the Eraser Tool.
2. Set Size to Small (15) and shape to Square.
3. Zoom to 400% (Max Zoom). This is critical for visibility.
4. Carefully erase the bottom boundary line of the ice cream body where it crosses the stick.
5. Sensory Check: Lift your finger. The line should vanish, leaving a continuous open path between the ice cream and the stick. If you see "pixel dust" (tiny leftover dots), erase them.

Warning: Needle Safety. During these screen edits, keep your hands away from the Start/Stop button. When stitching later, never hold the fabric near the needle bar to "help" it smooth out—that is the #1 cause of finger injuries in embroidery shops.

Split the Neapolitan Sections with Straight Lines

We need three flavors. We will draw lines to create the boundaries.

Action Steps:

1. Select Line Properties.
2. Choose Straight Line tool. Color: Black (for visibility).
3. Draw two horizontal lines across the body of the ice cream.
4. The "Undo" Rule: If your line is crooked or off-center, hit Undo immediately. Do not try to "fix it later." Get the geometry right now.
   

Turn Lines into “No Sew” Boundaries (The Double Knock)

This is the most critical concept in IQ Designer. We want these lines to contain the color fill, but we do NOT want the machine to stitch a black line across the middle of our ice cream.

Action Steps:

1. Open Line Properties.
2. Select the "No Sew" icon (usually a circle with a slash or the word "REGION").
3. Select the Bucket (Pour) tool.
4. Tap the two horizontal lines you just drew.
5. Sensory Anchor: Listen for the specific "Double Knock" or "Clunk-Clunk" sound the machine makes. This auditory cue confirms the property has been applied. If you don't hear it, it didn't happen.
6. Optional: You can also tap the outer boundary line to make it "No Sew" for now, ensuring the fill goes right to the edge.
   

Fill the Colors: The Thread Recipe

Now that our "No Sew" boundaries are set, the shape acts like a paint-by-numbers canvas.

Action Steps:

1. Open Fill Properties.
2. Select Pink -> Bucket Tool -> Tap Top Section.
3. Select Cream -> Bucket Tool -> Tap Middle Section.
4. Select Chocolate -> Bucket Tool -> Tap Bottom Section.
5. Select Almond/Tan -> Bucket Tool -> Tap Stick.

Note: If the color bleeds into the whole shape, your divider lines didn't touch the edges completely. Undo and lengthen your lines.

Add a Bean Stitch Outline—And Erase the "Bad" Segment

We want a decorative outline around the perimeter only.

Action Steps:

1. Open Line Properties.
2. Select Bean Stitch (a bold, triple-pass running stitch). Color: Black.
3. Bucket Tool -> Tap the outer boundary of the ice cream and stick. Listen for the Double Knock.

The Pro Refinement: Currently, the machine thinks there is an outline cutting across the neck of the stick.

1. Zoom to 400% at the join.
2. Select Eraser.
3. Erase the black bean stitch line just where the stick meets the ice cream.
4. Result: The outline should trace the outside of the treat continuously without cutting across the stick.
   

Lock In Quality: Chain Link ON, Density 30%, Under Sewing ON

Default settings on many machines are too dense for banners, leading to "bulletproof" stiff embroidery. We need to soften it.

Action Steps:

1. Click Next to generate stitch data.
2. Open Fill Settings.
3. Tap the Chain Link Icon (this links all fill regions so you change them all at once).
4. Density: Change from Auto (100%) to Manual 30%. Why? This provides coverage without warping the fabric.
5. Under Sewing: Set to ON. Why? This lays a foundation grid to support the top stitches, preventing the "corduroy effect."

Expert Data: For fills on a single layer of banner fabric, a standard density often creates ~12,000+ stitches. Reducing to 30% keeps visual coverage but reduces pull force significantly.

Center the Design (Don’t Trust Your Eyes)

Never manually drag the design to the center. It’s inaccurate.

Action Steps:

1. Go to Edit -> Move.
2. Tap the Center Dot icon.
3. Allow the machine to snap the design to true (0,0) center.
   

The Stipple-First Workflow: Anchoring the Float

This is Jan's "Secret Sauce." We are floating the fabric, which is risky because fabric can shift. The stipple stitch solves this.

The Workflow:

1. Save your ice cream design to memory.
2. Add Stippling: Use the IQ Designer background fill tool to add stippling around the design (assign it a different color, e.g., Blue, so the machine stops).
3. Stitch Order Manipulation: In the embroidery screen, use the Edit or Sequence keys to ensure the Stipple stitches first.

Why: The stippling acts as a "tack-down" stitch. It creates a quilted plane that locks the floating fabric to the hooped stabilizer. Once stippled, the fabric cannot move when the ice cream fills begin.

**Setup Checklist: The Final Countdown**

(Perform these checks immediately before pressing Start)

• Hoop Check: 5x7 hoop is locked in. Stabilizer is tight.
• Fabric Check: Top fabric is floated smoothly over stabilizer; SF101 is fused.
• Needle Clearance: Press "Trace" to ensure the foot won't hit the hoop frame.
• Sequence Check: Confirm Stipple is Step #1.
• Speed Check: Reduce machine speed to 600-700 SPM. High speed (1000+) on floating fabric increases distortion risk.
  

Decision Tree: Choosing the Right Stabilizer & Hoop Strategy

Embroidery is not one-size-fits-all. Use this logic gate to determine your setup.

START: What is your project workflow?

1. "I'm making one banner for my kitchen."
   • Path: Standard Hoop + Floating.
   • Technique: Must use Stipple-First method to anchor fabric.
   • Risk: Moderate. If fabric isn't floated flat, you get wrinkles.
2. "I'm making a set of 4 placemats or 20 banners for a craft fair."
   • Path: magnetic embroidery hoop Upgrade.
   • Why: Floating with standard hoops is slow and allows shifting. A magnetic hoop clamps the fabric and stabilizer together instantly without "hoop burn" markings.
   • Search Intent: Look for babylock magnetic embroidery hoop compatible with your machine arm.
3. "I'm doing production runs (50+ items)."
   • Path: Multi-Needle Machine.
   • Why: Speed. Single-needle machines require you to stop and re-thread 5 times for this ice cream. Multi-needle machines (like SEWTECH models) hold all 5 colors and switch automatically.

Warning: Magnet Safety. High-quality embroidery hoops magnetic use industrial-strength magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep away from pacemakers. Never let the top and bottom frames snap together without fabric in between.

“Why It Works”: The Physics of Pull and Anchoring

Understanding the why makes you a better embroiderer.

• The Pull: Fill stitches are thousands of tiny loops pulling fabric toward the center. Without structure, your square becomes an hourglass.
• The Anchor: Floating removes hoop stress, but introduces "slip." The stipple stitch distributes tension across the entire surface area, essentially turning your banner fabric and stabilizer into a single, laminated board.
• The Tooling: Standard hoops rely on friction (inner ring vs outer ring). magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines rely on vertical clamping force. This vertical force holds layers flatter, reducing the initial "bubble" that often causes registration errors.
  

Troubleshooting: The 3 Problems Everyone Hits (and How to Fix Them)

Symptoms & Cures Table

The Upgrade Path: When to Buy Tools Instead of Time

You can stitch this perfectly with a basic setup and patience. But if you value your time or plan to sell, your bottlenecks will change.

• The Hobby Bottleneck: "I hate hooping straight."
  • Solution: Magnetic Hoops. They allow you to slide the fabric until it's perfect, then snap—it's locked. No unscrewing, no tugging.
• The Side-Hustle Bottleneck: "Changing thread takes longer than stitching."
  • Solution: Multi-Needle Machines. Moving from a Solaris (single needle logic) to a SEWTECH multi-needle production horse allows you to set up 15 colors and walk away while it works.

**Operation Checklist: Final Success Metrics**

• Audio Check: Machine sounds smooth, not "slapping" (slapping = loose hoop).
• Visual Check: White bobbin thread is visible only on the back (about 1/3 width).
• Tactile Check: The finished embroidery feels flexible, not like a stiff bulletproof patch (thanks to 30% density).

Mastering this ice cream bar isn't about dessert; it's about mastering control. Once you control the shapes and the physics, you can stitch anything. Happy stitching!

FAQ

• Q: How do I stop puckering on a Baby Lock Solaris 2 IQ Designer banner when stitching dense fill areas?
  A: Use the “Fuse + Float + Anchor” setup and stitch the stipple background first to lock the fabric before the fills pull it inward.
  • Fuse: Iron SF101 (Shape Flex) to the wrong side of the banner fabric to add structure.
  • Hoop: Hoop only no-show mesh (poly-mesh) drum-tight, then float the fabric on top.
  • Anchor: Add stippling and set the stitch sequence so stippling runs as Step #1 before the ice cream fills.
  • Success check: After stippling, the floated fabric should feel “tacked down” and not slide when lightly nudged.
  • If it still fails: Reduce speed to 600–700 SPM and confirm the correct hoop size (5x7) is selected on-screen.
• Q: What is the correct stabilizer and interfacing stack for floating banner fabric on a Brother My Design Center project to prevent shifting layers?
  A: Hoop no-show mesh, fuse SF101 to the fabric, then float the fabric and use a stipple-first tack-down to prevent slip.
  • Hoop: Hoop the no-show mesh only and tighten until it sounds like a deep thud when tapped.
  • Fuse: Apply SF101 to the fabric back so the fabric behaves more like an embroidery-ready ground.
  • Stitch: Run stippling first so the fabric bonds to the hooped stabilizer before the main design.
  • Success check: The hooped stabilizer should be drum-tight, and the fabric should lay flat with no bubbles before pressing Start.
  • If it still fails: Press “Trace” to confirm clearance and re-check that the stabilizer—not the fabric—is what is hooped.
• Q: How do I turn divider lines into “No Sew” boundaries in Baby Lock IQ Designer so Neapolitan sections do not stitch black lines?
  A: Apply “No Sew” to the drawn lines using Line Properties and confirm the machine’s audible confirmation before filling colors.
  • Draw: Create two straight horizontal divider lines across the ice cream body.
  • Set: Open Line Properties and choose the “No Sew” icon, then use the Bucket (Pour) tool on both divider lines.
  • Verify: Listen for the “double knock/clunk-clunk” sound that confirms the property was applied.
  • Success check: When using the Fill Bucket, each flavor region fills separately instead of flooding the whole shape.
  • If it still fails: Undo and redraw the lines so they fully touch the outer edges of the shape (gaps let fill bleed through).
• Q: How do I prevent a bean stitch outline from crossing the stick-to-ice-cream join in Baby Lock Solaris 2 IQ Designer?
  A: Add the bean stitch outline to the perimeter, then zoom in and erase only the “bad” segment where the stick meets the body.
  • Apply: Select Bean Stitch in Line Properties and bucket the outer boundary only.
  • Zoom: Magnify to 400% at the join so the overlap is clearly visible.
  • Erase: Use the small square eraser (size 15) to remove the outline segment that cuts across the “neck” of the stick.
  • Success check: The outline should trace the outside continuously without a line slicing across the join area.
  • If it still fails: Erase any tiny leftover “pixel dust” dots at max zoom so the boundary becomes clean and uninterrupted.
• Q: What fill settings should be changed in Baby Lock IQ Designer to avoid “bulletproof” stiff embroidery on banner fabric?
  A: Link the fill regions, reduce density to Manual 30%, and turn Under Sewing ON for support without excessive pull.
  • Link: Tap the chain link icon so all fill regions change together.
  • Set: Change density from Auto (100%) to Manual 30%.
  • Enable: Turn Under Sewing ON to support the top stitches and reduce surface ridging.
  • Success check: The finished embroidery should feel flexible, not rigid like a patch.
  • If it still fails: Increase density to 40% only if coverage is too light, and check bobbin area for lint if fills look inconsistent.
• Q: How can I diagnose and fix “outline misses the fill” registration on a Brother on-screen digitizing project when using a standard hoop?
  A: Tighten the hooped stabilizer to true drum tension and improve grip so the fabric/stabilizer stack does not drift during stitching.
  • Re-hoop: Hoop the stabilizer tighter until it gives a deep drum-like thud when tapped.
  • Stabilize: Keep using the float method with fused SF101 so the fabric is structured but not crushed by hoop rings.
  • Improve grip: Wrap the inner ring with bias tape (a common shop fix) if the stabilizer tends to slip.
  • Success check: The outline should land consistently on the edge of the fill all around, not “shadow” off to one side.
  • If it still fails: Switch from standard hoop friction to a magnetic hoop clamping method to reduce slip during dense stitch phases.
• Q: What safety rules should be followed for needle operation and industrial-strength magnetic embroidery hoops to prevent injuries and hazards?
  A: Keep hands clear of the needle area during stitching, and handle magnetic frames as pinch hazards that must be kept away from pacemakers.
  • Needle safety: Never hold fabric near the needle bar to “help” it smooth—use proper stabilization and sequencing instead.
  • Start/Stop safety: During on-screen edits, keep hands away from the Start/Stop control to avoid accidental starts.
  • Magnet safety: Never let magnetic hoop rings snap together without fabric between; magnets can pinch fingers severely.
  • Success check: The hoop closes in a controlled way (no slam), and hands stay outside the needle path for the entire run.
  • If it still fails: Stop immediately, re-seat the fabric/stabilizer calmly, and restart only after a full trace/clearance check.