Construction Game Quilt, Part 2: Assemble Row 2 and Join Your First Rows

Primer: What this step achieves and when to do it

This stage of the project takes you from finished individual blocks to a wider, playable quilt section. You will assemble Row 2 (blocks 7–14) and then join Row 1 and Row 2. The result: your game path will read from the personalized/GO area through the numbers, continuing smoothly across both rows.

If you’re working with smaller hoops (4x4 or 5x5), you’re in the sweet spot—the project was designed to be approachable while building to an impressive final size.

Pro tip: This tutorial assumes your individual embroidered blocks are already stitched, removed from the hoop, and trimmed. The only appliqué you’ll meet in this series is the GO block at the beginning and a STOP sign on the very last row; everything else follows a simple hoop, stitch, remove, and trim flow. machine embroidery hoops

Quick check

• Finished Row 1? Great—you’re ready to build Row 2.

• All blocks for Row 2 (7–14) embroidered and trimmed?

• Ironing board and pins nearby?

Prep: Tools, materials, and what to finish first

You’ll need:

• Your embroidered quilt blocks for Row 2 (numbers 7–14)

• Row 1 already assembled

• Pins

• A sewing machine for piecing

• An iron and ironing surface

Work area

• A flat surface for laying out and numbering blocks

• Space to press from back and front

Prerequisites

• Completed blocks (hoop, stitch, remove, trim) as above

• Basic machine embroidery and sewing familiarity

Watch out: Avoid very thick batting at this stage of assembly. Thick layers plus dense stitching can make it hard for your machine to sew through intersecting seams later. magnetic hoops

Prep checklist

• Blocks 7–14 ready and labeled

• Row 1 on hand

• Pins and iron at the ready

Setup: Lay out Row 2 in the correct direction

This quilt is built like a game path. Rows alternate direction so the path “snakes” across the quilt:

• Row 1: left to right

• Row 2: right to left (7 at the right edge → 14 at the left)

• Row 3: left to right

• Row 4: right to left

Lay Row 2 out with 7 on the right and 14 on the left so it will read correctly once joined beneath Row 1.

Note on block methods: With the exception of the GO and final STOP blocks (appliqué steps), everything else is your simple hoop-and-stitch method, making the assembly rhythm consistent throughout.

Setup checklist

• Blocks 7–14 arranged right to left for Row 2

• Confirm numbering matches your intended path

• Right sides identified for each block embroidery magnetic hoops

Operation: Assemble Row 2 (blocks 7–14)

Follow this sequence for a tidy, square row:

1) Pair 7 and 8

• Place block 7 on top of 8, right sides together.

• Align edges and pin.

- Stitch the pinned edge to join.

Quick check: Seams are straight, edges aligned, no fabric creep.

2) Add 9

• Add block 9 to the joined unit (7–8): pin, then stitch.

• Keep the same seam allowances you’ve used throughout.

3) Continue across the row - Add 10 to 9, then 11 to 10, etc., until all blocks up to 14 are stitched into one continuous strip.

Watch out: The most common mistake here is assembling Row 2 left to right by habit. Confirm your orientation before pinning each time—Row 2 reads right to left for correct gameplay. hooping station for embroidery

4) Press as you go (back and front)

• After each join, press from the back and open the seam allowance.

• Give the front a quick press to smooth everything.

Operation checklist

• Row 2 fully assembled from 7 → 14 (right to left)

• Every seam pressed open and flat (back), then smoothed (front)

• No waves or cupping along the strip

Operation: Join Row 1 and Row 2

With both rows prepared, it’s time to create your first full-width section.

1) Stack and align

• Place Row 2 on top of Row 1, right sides together, aligning the long edges you plan to stitch.

- Ensure the “7” end of Row 2 is on the correct side so the path continues logically from Row 1.

2) Pin from one corner, then at every intersection - Start pinning at a corner, then place pins at each block-to-block seam intersection to keep the grid continuous across rows.

- Add additional pins along the entire length to prevent shifting.

Pro tip: Use plenty of pins—an extra minute here saves unpicking later. magnetic embroidery hoop

3) Stitch the rows together

• Sew along the pinned edge from end to end.

• Keep the row edges and intersections aligned as you go; if anything drifts, pause with the needle down, adjust, and continue.

Outcome: You now have Rows 1 and 2 joined with the game path flowing from your personalized/GO area through 14. Lay the unit flat and admire the continuity.

Operation (join) checklist

• Pins at intersections before sewing

• One continuous, secure seam connecting the rows

• Intersections meet neatly across the seam

The secret to flatness: Pressing every seam

Pressing is the difference between a good quilt and a polished one.

• After each seam: press from the back and open the seam allowance.

• Then flip and give the front a quick pass with the iron.

- Repeat after joining the rows so the long seam lies flat and won’t distort later.

Quick check: Seams lie open and flat; no ridges or “ghost” bulk telegraphing through to the front. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines

Quality checks: Alignment, direction, and flatness

Use these checks to validate your work before moving on:

• Directional layout

• Row 1: left → right

• Row 2: right → left (7 is at the right edge)

• Intersections

• Seams meet at each block junction across rows

• No noticeable stepping or misalignment

• Flatness

• All seams pressed open (back) and smoothed (front)

• No puckers; strip lies flat on the table

• Security

• Seam lines are continuous with no skipped areas

Results & handoff: Build the quilt row by row

With Rows 1 and 2 joined, you have a strong base to keep building. Continue the same rhythm for subsequent rows: assemble the next set of blocks, alternate the row direction for the “game snake,” press every seam open, and join the new row to the quilt top.

• Maintain the alternating direction pattern: Row 3 left → right, Row 4 right → left, and so on.

• Keep pressing after each stitch; this ensures future joins stay accurate.

Looking ahead: You’ll add sashing, backing, and binding at the end of the series, plus playful extras like dice and little game pieces.

Pro tip: Consistency beats speed. Repeat the same pin–stitch–press routine every time for identical results across all rows. embroidery hoops for tajima

Troubleshooting & recovery

Symptom → Likely cause → Fix

• Row feels wavy or cupped

• Cause: Uneven seam allowances or skipped pressing

• Fix: Repress the row from the back, opening allowances fully; if needed, unpick the worst section and re-stitch with careful pinning

• Intersections don’t meet

• Cause: Inadequate pinning at block junctions

• Fix: Unpick the affected section, add pins at each seam intersection, re-stitch

• Puckering while joining rows

• Cause: Fabric shifting or tension issues as layers accumulate

• Fix: Add more pins along the seam to stabilize; sew steadily and avoid pulling the fabric

• Machine resists stitching at thick areas later

• Cause: Bulk from dense embroidery plus batting

• Fix: Avoid thick batting; keep seams pressed open to minimize layers

Quick isolation test: Lay the joined rows on a hard, flat surface. If the unit lies flat without rippling, your pressing and seam allowances are on track. embroidery machine for beginners

From the comments

• The community emphasized the importance of pressing seam allowances open after each join and avoiding bulky batting near dense embroidery. Aligning and pinning at every intersection was repeatedly cited as the key to clean, matching seams.