Table of Contents
Video reference: “Adventures in Machine Embroidery - The Gnome” by Gentleman Crafter.
A bold, textured gnome is the perfect playground for digitizing fills and effects. In this hands-on guide, you’ll create the pom-pom, hat, boots, nose, mustache, and beard—and make them stitch efficiently with smart overlap removal and stitch-direction control.
What you’ll learn
- How to build each gnome element with appropriate stitch types and effects
- When to use radial fill, hand stitch effects, and tatami patterns
- How to curve stitches with Florentine and mirror shapes for symmetry
- How to remove overlaps to reduce density and stitch count
- What to tweak after a test stitch-out for better real-world results
Introduction to Gnome Digitizing
What is Machine Embroidery Digitizing? Digitizing converts artwork into precise stitch instructions for your embroidery machine. In Hatch Embroidery Digitizer, that means drawing shapes, picking fills (tatami, satin, etc.), and setting stitch directions, effects, and sequencing. The payoff is control: you decide how texture, sheen, and density appear on fabric. embroidery magnetic hoops
Why Digitize a Gnome? A gnome’s simple shapes and distinct parts are a great canvas for combining stitch types. In this project you’ll use:
- A radial hand-stitched pom-pom for a soft, fluffy look
- A tatami-filled hat with refined stitch direction
- Tatami boots for clean, even coverage
- A standout nose (initially 3D satin, later improved with tatami)
- A Florentine mustache and a vertically flowing, textured beard
Tools You’ll Need
- Computer with Hatch Embroidery Digitizer
- Gnome artwork (SVG)
- Embroidery machine for stitch-out
- Fabric, thread, and needle for your test sew
Quick check - Artwork imported and locked? You’re ready to digitize shapes without shifting the reference.
Prep
Files and workspace
- Load the gnome SVG into Hatch, then lock the artwork so it won’t move.
- Zoom where you’ll digitize first; keep object properties visible while you work.
Materials
- Fabric, thread, needle for test stitch-out on your machine.
Pro tip Use layers and the sequence panel to keep parts organized; hide/unhide groups to prevent accidental selections while focusing on a single element. hoop master embroidery hooping station
Prep checklist
- Gnome SVG loaded and locked
- Sequence panel visible
- Effects/object properties panels open
- Zoom and grid/snaps set to your preference
Step-by-Step Gnome Digitization
Creating the Pom-Pom with Radial Hand Stitch The pom-pom is a circle filled with stitch character. Use the Circle tool (Fill) with Hand Stitch + Radial effects, then Satin fill. Set center, drag to size, press Enter twice. Adjust as needed.
- Hand Stitch length: 5 mm
- Feather edge: medium, max width 3 mm
- Underlay: zigzag (twice) to resist edge pull-in
Watch out Radial fill sometimes needs reapplying after adjustments—double-check the preview. If it drops out, reapply in effects.
Outcome expectation A round, textured pom-pom with a softer edge from feathering and underlay support.
Checklist
- Circle positioned correctly
- Radial + Hand Stitch visible
- Feather edge softness is even around
Designing the Hat with Tatami Patterns Switch to Digitize Blocks for the hat and start with a tatami fill (pattern 28). Trace with right-clicks for smooth curves. Press Enter to close. If the texture isn’t ideal, try alternate tatami patterns until the flow suits the hat. Then refine with Reshape (H) to accentuate stitch direction along the curve. Finally, apply a subtle Hand Stitch effect: length 2 mm, angle 3°, count 1, randomness 2, variation 3.
Pro tip Reshape before adding effects. Getting stitch direction right reduces the temptation to over-randomize later. magnetic hoops
Outcome expectation A smoothly curved hat with a tatami texture and just a hint of hand-stitch character.
Checklist
- Hat outline closed and fills correctly
- Tatami pattern suits the shape
- Stitch direction flows with the hat curve
Adding Boots and a Nose Boots: Use Freehand Closed Shape with a simple tatami fill (pattern 1). Trace loosely; tidy with Reshape. Use Mirror Copy Horizontal to duplicate the second boot, and merge overlaps when prompted. Move boots to the top of the sequence so they stitch first.
Nose: Use the Circle tool, choose a pink color, and set 3D Satin. Place center, size the oval, press Enter, and nudge into position if needed.
Watch out Trace boots confidently but not perfectly. It’s faster to correct with Reshape than to over-click while drawing. brother embroidery machine
Outcome expectation
- Two symmetrical boots with even tatami coverage
- A raised, shiny nose standing out against the beard and mustache
Checklist
- Both boots align and merge cleanly
- Nose sits properly between mustache halves
Mastering Textures: Mustache and Beard
Florentine Effect for the Mustache Digitize one half of the mustache with Freehand Open Shape. Close it via “Close Shape with Curved Line” so it can accept a fill. Apply the Florentine effect and drag its control points to create a smooth, arcing stitch flow. Mirror copy horizontally, merge, and position the mustache above the nose in the stack.
Pro tip Small Florentine adjustments can add big dimensionality—nudge the center line for a soft S-curve rather than a dramatic bend. brother 5x7 magnetic hoop
Outcome expectation A symmetrical mustache with graceful, curved stitches that echo the gnome’s whimsy.
Creating the Beard with Custom Stitch Angles Use Freehand Closed Shape to draw one side of the beard. Choose tatami pattern 65 to give the beard a distinct texture. Clean stray points with Reshape. Set stitch angles: remove any defaults, add a single 90° angle line so stitches drop vertically from top to bottom. Mirror copy, merge, and place behind the mustache and nose.
Quick check Toggle the artwork off to judge texture alone—does the beard’s vertical flow read as “hanging”? If yes, you’re ready for subtle effects.
Applying Hand Stitch Effects for Detail Apply the Hand Stitch effect to the beard (default settings) to add organic irregularity without overwhelming the tatami. For the mustache, experiment with hand stitch parameters (e.g., length around 2 mm, angle around 3°, multiple counts) if you want more body—then refine back to taste. The creator ultimately used a richer hand-stitch look for the mustache and left boots plain for contrast.
Checklist
- Mustache curves look continuous post-mirror
- Beard stitches flow vertically
- Effects enhance texture rather than compete with tatami
Optimizing Your Design: Overlap Removal
Understanding Stitch Overlaps Stacked fills under foreground elements create dense layers, add stitch count, and increase the risk of needle breaks. The gnome has several overlapping zones: pom-pom/hat, mustache/beard, and the high-density nose area. magnetic hoop for brother
The “Remove Overlaps” Tool Explained Hide your reference art. Then, working front to back, select each overlapping object and use Edit > Remove Overlaps. The process trims away hidden material under top elements:
- Pom-pom: small but helpful reductions
- Beard: trims hat underlayer where covered
- Mustache: cleans up intersections with beard
- Nose: removes dense stitches under the satin/tatami oval
Benefits for Density and Stitch Count
- Less bulk where parts stack
- Smoother needle travel and fewer deflections
- Shorter stitch time with a cleaner finish
Watch out Don’t skip overlap removal on super-dense areas—this is where needle stress spikes.
Checklist
- All key overlaps removed (pom-pom, beard, mustache, nose)
- Sequence panel shows logical front-to-back order
- Stitch Player preview runs cleanly without dense “hot spots”
Preparing for Stitch Out & Real-World Adjustments
Previewing with the Stitch Player Use Stitch Player to simulate the sequence and identify thread travel, trims, and any areas that look too intense. If preview looks clean, you’re ready to export to your machine. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines
Addressing Common Stitching Issues During the real-world stitch-out, the designer discovered the mustache was too dense and caused a needle break. Two practical fixes emerged from the test sew:
- Reduce density on the mustache
- Change the nose from 3D satin to a tatami fill for smoother stitching
Learning from Needle Breakage Needle breaks often point directly to avoidable density or layering. In this case, trimming overlaps and dialing back mustache density solved the issue. Switching the nose to tatami also improved sewability without sacrificing the look.
Pro tip If something stitches “too hard,” lower density or swap to tatami for a more accommodating texture in small areas. dime snap hoop
Operation checklist (pre-stitch-out)
- Overlaps removed for all stacked elements
- Stitch angles verified (hat curve; beard vertical)
- Florentine and Hand Stitch effects applied tastefully
- Stitch Player run shows no dense clumps
Results & Handoff
Expected outputs
- A gnome design whose textures read distinctly: fluffy pom-pom, curved-grain hat, crisp boots, dimensional mustache, and a draped beard
- Optimized layers with fewer hidden stitches and a smarter production sequence
Saving and stitching
- Send the file to your embroidery machine and stitch your test sample
- Evaluate density, coverage, and texture under real conditions
From the comments A reader praised the design and demo for its charm—a reminder that playful subjects are ideal testbeds for combining stitch effects with confidence.
Troubleshooting & Recovery
Symptom → likely cause → fix
- Needle breaks in mustache → density too high → reduce density; ensure overlaps are removed
- Nose too raised or “hard” → 3D satin pushing bulk → switch to tatami for even coverage
- Pom-pom edges look harsh → feather edge too low → increase feather edge width; confirm zigzag underlay
- Hat looks flat → stitch direction not following curve → reshape nodes and angle guides; try a different tatami pattern
- Beard lacks “hang” → wrong stitch angle → set a single 90° line, top to bottom
Quick tests to isolate issues
- Toggle individual effects (Hand Stitch, Florentine) to see which adds excess density
- Run Stitch Player after each fix to validate improvements
Setup checklist (before final export)
- Overlaps trimmed in all critical regions
- Density set conservatively for small, detail-heavy parts
- Angle lines placed intentionally (hat, beard)
- Final preview clean and efficient
Conclusion: Your Completed Gnome Design With a disciplined sequence—shape, fill, direct stitches, mirror for symmetry, and remove overlaps—you’ve built a textured, efficient gnome ready to stitch. The final test sew validated the approach and revealed two smart adjustments: lighten the mustache density and convert the nose to tatami for reliability.
Pro tip Mirror copy is faster than re-drawing—but adjust nodes after mirroring to perfect alignment and flow.
Where to go next
- Try alternate tatami patterns on the hat for subtle grain changes
- Test different Hand Stitch settings on the beard for varying “woolly” looks
- Practice overlap removal on other multi-layer designs to build instinct
Gear side note (for your broader toolkit) If you explore hooping solutions for future projects, many embroiderers experiment with magnetic and station-based systems to speed setup and improve stability. Choose what matches your machine and project scale. brother magnetic hoop
Figure references -
Overview of the finished digitized gnome in Hatch -
Loading the gnome SVG -
Pom-pom circle with Hand Stitch + Radial -
Radial curve fill and feather edge tuning -
Selecting hat tatami options -
Tracing the hat with curved nodes -
Reshape to refine direction and flow -
Boot setup with freehand closed shape -
Mirroring boots -
3D satin nose setup -
Florentine mustache controls -
Mirrored mustache halves merged -
Beard with 90° stitch angle line -
Remove Overlaps in action -
Final stitched gnome in the hoop