From Crayon to Keepsake: Scanning a Child’s Drawing on the Baby Lock Destiny II (Without the Usual Gotchas)

You’re not imagining it: the first time you try to preserve a kid’s drawing as embroidery, it can feel emotionally high-stakes and technically slippery at the same time. You aren't just stitching a pattern; you are trying to permanentize a memory. You don’t want to “ruin” the artwork, and you definitely don’t want to fight your machine for an hour just to get a clean line.

As someone who has taught thousands of students to master their machines, I know that fear comes from the "unknowns" between the paper drawing and the started stitch. This post rebuilds the full workflow demonstrated on the Baby Lock Destiny II—from paper drawing to a stitched keepsake pillow—using the machine’s built-in camera, scanning frame, and IQ Designer tools. I’ll fill in the practical gaps (especially the “what happens between scan and stitch-out?” moment), and I’ll point out the traps that waste the most time.

The Calm-Down Moment: What the Baby Lock Destiny II Camera + IQ Designer Can (and Can’t) Do for Kids’ Art

The Destiny II is one of those machines that can genuinely “wow” you because it scans a drawing under the built-in camera and converts it into stitches right on the screen—no computer required. In the video, Barb uses it to preserve her grandson’s stick-figure family drawing as a stitched pillow, and the result is exactly what most of us want: the charm of the original lines, but in thread.

Here’s the reality check I give every new Destiny owner: The machine is a translator, not a psychic. If the drawing is faint, reflective, smudgy, or full of broken pencil texture, the scan will look patchy—and the stitches will follow that patchiness. That’s why the “prep” matters more than people expect.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Never Skip: Make the Drawing Scan Like a Pro (Sharpie Contrast Wins)

Barb’s best tip is also the most old-school: she traces the pencil drawing with a black Sharpie because graphite pencil reflects light. To a camera sensor, shiny graphite looks like "broken" data. Those gaps become broken lines in the scan, forcing you to do hours of editing later.

If you only remember one thing, remember this rule of optics: the scanner loves matte, high-contrast, non-reflective lines.

A practical way to think about it is this: the camera is trying to separate “line” from “background.” Pencil is a gray, shiny, inconsistent signal; Sharpie is a bold, consistent signal.

Prep Checklist (do this before you touch the machine)

• Source Material: Choose a clean line drawing on paper (simple outlines scan best).
• Hidden Consumable: Locate a Fine-Tip Black Permanent Marker (Sharpie or equivalent).
• The Trace: Retrace the drawing with the marker. Aim for solid, continuous lines.
• Dry Time: Let the ink dry fully (wait 60 seconds) so you don’t smear it onto the scanning frame glass.
• Pre-Edit: Decide what you don’t want stitched (random marks, shadows, notebook lines), because you’ll either crop or erase them later.
• Text Plan: If you plan to add a word or signature, decide whether you’ll write it on paper first or add it digitally on-screen.

Warning: If you break a needle during embroidery, stop immediately. Do not keep stitching “to see if it’s fine.” A missing needle tip can end up in the hook area or bobbin race. If you can’t find the end of the needle, remove the hoop/frame, turn the machine off, and carefully inspect the needle plate area and bobbin/hook area per your machine manual. A $2 needle can cause $500 in damage if it jams the gears.

Lock the Paper Down Flat: Using the Destiny II Scanning Frame + Magnetic Strips Without Drift

In the video, Barb places the paper drawing onto the dedicated scanning frame and secures it with the provided green magnetic strips. This matters for one reason: movement equals blur, and blur equals ugly stitches.

The scanning frame is doing two jobs at once:

1. Planarity: It keeps the paper perfectly flat so the camera focus stays sharp.
2. Reference: It gives the camera a stable, known area to scan.

If you’re coming from regular hooping where you wrestle with screws and inner rings, this will feel incredibly fast. It effectively uses clamping force rather than friction.

If you enjoy this ease of use, you aren't alone. This is why many professionals eventually switch to a magnetic frame for embroidery machine for their actual fabric work. The concept is identical: consistent holding force, zero fabric distortion, and no "hoop burn" (the shiny ring left by tight standard hoops).

The On-Screen Path That Matters: IQ Designer → Camera Icon → “Create Line Image”

At about 3:22 in the video (a helpful viewer even timestamped it), Barb goes into IQ Designer and taps the Camera icon, then chooses Create Line Image.

That choice is critical. Here is the logic:

• Create Line Image: For line drawings (kids’ art, handwriting, simple outlines). The machine looks for edges.
• Create Fill Image: For colored illustrations where you want solid blocks of stitching.

Once you start the scan, the embroidery arm moves the scanning frame back and forth. Auditory Check: Listen for the smooth, rhythmic motor sound. If you hear grinding or the paper crunching, stop immediately—the magnets may not be flush against the frame edges.

Crop Like You Mean It: Staying Inside the 11.81" × 8.66" Scan Area and Avoiding “Junk” in the File

After the scan, Barb crops the image using the red arrow handles on the screen. She also calls out a very real issue: you want to crop out edges where magnets might be visible or where there’s empty space.

The Destiny II’s scanning area limit shown in the video is 11.81" × 8.66". Technically, the machine sees everything, but you must tell it what to ignore.

Cropping is not just about aesthetics—it’s about processing power:

• Less empty space = Less data for the processor to crunch.
• Tighter crop = Fewer "artifacts" (random specks) that you have to manually erase later.
  
  
  
  
  

The Slider That Saves You: Gray-Scale Detection Level (Get the Lines, Not the Shadows)

Barb adjusts the Gray-Scale Detection level slider so the machine picks up faint lines. This is the "Goldilocks Zone" of digitization.

• Too Low: Lines look broken, like a dotted road.
• Too High: The screen fills with "noise" (specks), capturing the texture of the paper itself.

The Expert's Visual Anchor: Watch the screen preview. Slowly increase the slider until the main lines connect into solid strokes. The moment you see "fuzz" or tiny dots appearing in the white background, stop and back the slider down one notch. That is your sweet spot.

Clean It Up on the Machine: Eraser Tool + Pencil Tool (Finger Works, Stylus Wins)

Barb opens the palette and uses the Eraser tool to remove part of the drawing (she demonstrates erasing a hand). She notes that she’s using her finger, but a stylus would be more precise.

That’s not a small detail. The "Fat Finger Problem" is the #1 reason users get frustrated with on-screen editing. Using a fingertip often obscures the very pixels you are trying to erase.

Pro Workflow for Clean Edits:

1. Tool Upgrade: Use the included stylus (or a high-quality capacitive stylus).
2. Zoom First: Always zoom in to at least 200% or 400% before erasing near a line.
3. Tap, Don't Scrub: Tap unwanted specks to remove them. scrubbing often accidentally deletes parts of the line you wanted to keep.

Then Barb uses the Pencil/Draw tool to write “LOVE” directly on the screen.

Setup Checklist (right before you commit to stitching)

• Function Check: Did you select Create Line Image? (If it looks like a blob, you selected Fill).
• Crop: Handles are pulled tight to the design, excluding frame edges.
• Detection: Lines are solid, background is clear of "static/noise."
• Cleanup: All "trash" data (pencil smudges, paper crease marks) is erased using the stylus.
• Integration: Any added text (e.g., "LOVE") is positioned correctly.
• Sanity Preview: Look at the screen one last time. If it looks messy here, it will stitch messy.

“Okay… But How Do I Get From Scan to Stitch-Out?” (Filling the Gap Viewers Asked About)

Several viewers wished the video showed the transition from "Editing" to "Sewing." The video jumps to the result, leaving a process gap.

Here is the bridge:

1. The "Set" Button: Once your image is cleaned up in IQ Designer, look for a button labeled "Set" or "Next" (depending on firmware). Pressing this converts the image data into stitch data.
2. Stitch Settings: You may get a prompt to choose line type. For kids' art, a Bean Stitch (Triple Stitch) or a standard Running Stitch is best. Avoid Satin Stitch for thin pencil lines unless you want a bold, heavy look.
3. Embroidery Mode: The machine transfers the file to the embroidery queue.
4. Hoop Up: This is when you remove the Scanning Frame and attach your standard embroidery hoop with fabric and stabilizer.

Expert Tip on Speed: When stitching these jagged, organic lines, slow your machine down. A speed of 400-600 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) yields much sharper corners than running at full throttle (1000 SPM).

The “Why” Behind the Results: Hooping Physics, Line Density, and Why Simple Drawings Stitch So Sweetly

A child’s drawing works beautifully as embroidery because it’s naturally “digitizing-friendly”: it’s mostly outlines, not heavy fills. This means fewer stitches (low density), less pull on the fabric, and less chance of puckering.

However, physics still applies:

• The Tugs: Every needle perforation pulls the fabric slightly inward.
• The Hoop: Standard hoops use friction (inner ring vs. outer ring) to hold fabric. If you pull too tight, you stretch the fabric before you stitch. When you unhoop it, the fabric snaps back, and your simple line drawing becomes a puckered mess.

The "Drum Skin" Test: When hooping, tap the fabric. It should sound like a dull thud—taut and flat, but not stretched like a trampoline. If you see the fabric weave distorted (curved grid lines), you have over-tightened.

This friction-battle is why pros often upgrade. If you find yourself avoiding embroidery because hooping hurts your hands or marks your fabric, researching hooping for embroidery machine alternatives is smart. Magnetic systems clamp straight down, eliminating the "stretch-and-screw" distortion completely.

Troubleshooting the Real-World Problems Viewers Mentioned (and the Fixes That Actually Work)

Below are the confirmed solutions for the most common roadblocks in this workflow.

Symptom: “My drawing isn’t scanning clearly.”

Likely Cause: Low contrast. Graphite reflects scanner light. The Fix: The Sharpie Method. Retrace it. No shortcuts.

Symptom: “My edits look messy / I erased the wrong thing.”

Likely Cause: Using a finger on a resistive or capacitive screen without zooming. The Fix: Use a stylus and zoom to 400%.

Symptom: “Data volume is too large for the pattern.”

Likely Cause: The scan captured thousands of tiny "noise" dots from the paper texture. The machine thinks you want to stitch 5,000 tiny specks. The Fix:

1. Crop tighter.
2. Lower the Gray-Scale Detection slider.
3. Use the Eraser to wipe clear the empty space.

Symptom: “Can I scan a colored image and make it an embroidery file?”

Likely Cause: Misunderstanding "Line Scan" vs "Fill Scan." The Fix: You can, but use "Create Fill Image." However, for beginners, trace the color blocks onto a separate sheet as lines first to get a cleaner result.

Symptom: “I broke a needle and I don’t know where the end went.”

Likely Cause: Hitting a pin, hoop edge, or tangled thread. The Fix: Stop. Find all pieces. Magnetic telescoping wands are great for finding metal shards in the bobbin case.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you choose to upgrade your tools, treat powerful magnets with respect. Keep magnetic strips and high-force embroidery magnetic hoops away from pacemakers/ICDs. Also, watch your fingers—industrial magnets can snap together with enough force to cause a painful blood blister.

A Simple Stabilizer Decision Tree for Keepsake Pillows (So the Lines Stay Crisp)

The video implies success, but stabilizer is the invisible hero. Without it, the "Love" text will sink and disappear.

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer Approach

1. Is your pillow fabric stable woven cotton (Quilting Cotton/Canvas)?
   • YES: Use Medium Tear-Away (convenient) or Poly-Mesh Cut-Away (softer feel).
   • NO: Go to step 2.
2. Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirt knit) or loose?
   • YES: You must use Cut-Away Stabilizer (2.5oz or 3.0oz). Tear-away will result in broken lines and gaps.
   • NO: Go to step 3.
3. Is the fabric textured (Fleece, Minky, Terry Cloth)?
   • YES: Use Cut-Away on the back AND a Water Soluble Topper on top. The topper prevents the stitches from sinking into the fluff.

Pro Standard: For a keepsake that will be washed, Cut-Away is always safer than Tear-Away. It supports the stitches forever.

The Finished Pillow Standard: What to Look For Before You Gift (or Sell) It

Barb’s final reveal shows a clean blue line drawing stitched on yellow fabric, and that’s the benchmark.

Quality Control (QC) Checklist:

• Continuity: Are the lines solid, or are there gaps where the bobbin thread shows through?
• Corners: Are they sharp, or bunched up? (Bunched corners often mean density was too high or speed was too fast).
• Flatness: Lay the pillow flat. Is there a "wave" around the embroidery? If yes, stabilizer was insufficient.
• Legibility: Is the "LOVE" text readable?
  
  
  
  
  

The Upgrade Path When One Pillow Turns Into Ten: Faster Hooping, Less Fatigue, Cleaner Results

A single keepsake pillow is a joy. But when you realize you can monetize this, and you have orders for ten pillows for Christmas, the standard process reveals its cracks.

Here is the "Tool Upgrade Logic" I apply in production studios:

Scenario Trigger: The "Hooping Bottleneck"

If you spend 5 minutes hooping perfectly for a 2-minute stitch-out, your ratio is off. You will feel this in your wrists and shoulders.

Judgment Standard: Consistency & Safety

If you are doing production runs, relying on manual screw-tightening is a variable you want to eliminate.

Options (The Solution Layers)

• Level 1 (Technique): Use spray adhesive or sticky stabilizer to "float" fabric to avoid hoop burn.
• Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): Switch to magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines. These allow you to slide fabric in, snap the magnets down, and stitch. It reduces hooping time by roughly 40% and eliminates hoop burn.
• Level 3 (Capacity): If you are consistently stitching faster than you can prep, look into hooping stations to organize your workflow, or consider moving to a multi-needle machine for true efficiency.

Operation Checklist (the “don’t regret it later” final pass)

• Scan: Only scan what you need; crop aggressively.
• Cleanup: Use a stylus to remove all digital "noise."
• Conversion: Set the line stitch type (Bean Stitch is durable for pillows).
• Stabilization: Match stabilizer to fabric (Cut-Away for knits!).
• Observation: Watch the first 100 stitches. If the fabric ripples, stop and re-hoop.
• Test: Stitch one sample on a scrap piece of similar fabric before committing to the final pillowcase.

If you follow Barb’s core workflow—Sharpie for contrast, magnets to hold the paper flat, Create Line Image for outlines, and careful on-screen cleanup—you’ll get the same kind of “heirloom quality” result she shows. The machine is capable; it just needs you to give it clean data.

FAQ

• Q: How do I make a kid’s pencil drawing scan cleanly on the Baby Lock Destiny II built-in camera in IQ Designer?
  A: Retrace the drawing with a fine-tip black permanent marker so the Destiny II camera captures solid, matte, high-contrast lines instead of reflective graphite.
  • Retrace: Go over pencil lines with a Fine-Tip Black Permanent Marker and aim for continuous strokes.
  • Dry: Wait about 60 seconds so ink will not smear onto the scanning frame surface.
  • Pre-edit: Decide what should NOT stitch (random marks, notebook lines) before scanning.
  • Success check: The on-screen scan preview shows connected lines with minimal “patchy” breaks.
  • If it still fails: Re-trace faint areas and re-scan with tighter cropping to exclude background clutter.
• Q: How do I stop paper drift and blur when scanning artwork on the Baby Lock Destiny II Scanning Frame with the green magnetic strips?
  A: Clamp the paper perfectly flat with the green magnetic strips so the scanning frame stays stable—any movement during the scan will create blur that turns into ugly stitches.
  • Align: Place the paper fully within the scanning frame’s scan area before adding magnets.
  • Clamp: Press the magnetic strips down flush so the paper cannot shift.
  • Listen: Start the scan and stop immediately if grinding or paper-crunching sounds occur.
  • Success check: The scanning motion sounds smooth and rhythmic, and the preview lines look crisp instead of fuzzy.
  • If it still fails: Re-seat the paper and magnets so no strip edge is lifted, then re-scan.
• Q: Which IQ Designer scan mode should I use on the Baby Lock Destiny II—“Create Line Image” or “Create Fill Image”—for kids’ drawings?
  A: Use Create Line Image for outlines (kids’ art, handwriting) and Create Fill Image only for colored artwork you want turned into filled stitch areas.
  • Choose: Tap IQ Designer → Camera icon → select Create Line Image for line drawings.
  • Verify: If the preview looks like a heavy blob, back out and re-scan using the correct mode.
  • Plan: For beginners scanning colored images, consider simplifying into clear line shapes first for cleaner results.
  • Success check: The preview shows recognizable outline strokes rather than solid filled masses.
  • If it still fails: Reduce background noise with tighter cropping and adjust the Gray-Scale Detection slider.
• Q: How do I set the Baby Lock Destiny II IQ Designer “Gray-Scale Detection level” slider to capture lines but not paper texture noise?
  A: Raise the Gray-Scale Detection level only until the main lines connect, then stop as soon as background “fuzz” specks appear.
  • Increase: Move the slider slowly upward while watching the preview.
  • Stop: The moment tiny dots appear in the white background, back down one notch.
  • Clean: Use the Eraser tool to remove any remaining specks before converting to stitches.
  • Success check: Lines look continuous, and the background stays clean without static-like dots.
  • If it still fails: Crop tighter first, then re-adjust the slider—extra blank space increases noise and data load.
• Q: How do I move from an edited scan in Baby Lock Destiny II IQ Designer to an actual stitch-out file for embroidery?
  A: Press Set (or Next, depending on firmware) to convert the cleaned image into stitch data, then choose a line stitch type before switching to embroidery mode and hooping fabric.
  • Convert: Tap Set/Next to generate stitch data from the edited image.
  • Select: Choose a Bean Stitch (Triple Stitch) or Running Stitch for kids’ art lines; avoid Satin for thin pencil-like strokes unless you want bold lines.
  • Hoop: Remove the scanning frame and attach a standard embroidery hoop with fabric plus stabilizer.
  • Success check: The design appears in the embroidery queue as stitches (not just an image) and previews as clean line paths.
  • If it still fails: Re-check that the scan was done with Create Line Image and that background noise was erased before conversion.
• Q: What should I do immediately after breaking a needle during embroidery on the Baby Lock Destiny II to avoid hook or bobbin damage?
  A: Stop stitching right away and locate all needle pieces before continuing—missing fragments can drop into the hook/bobbin area and cause expensive damage.
  • Stop: Do not “test stitch” after a needle break.
  • Power down: Remove the hoop/frame, turn the machine off, and inspect the needle plate area and bobbin/hook area per the machine manual.
  • Recover: Use a magnetic telescoping wand to help find metal fragments if needed.
  • Success check: All needle fragments are accounted for and the hook area is clear before restarting.
  • If it still fails: Do not run the machine—seek service guidance if a fragment cannot be found.
• Q: When should an embroidery business upgrade from standard hooping to magnetic hoops or a multi-needle machine for repeat kid’s-art pillows?
  A: Upgrade when hooping time and inconsistency become the bottleneck—start with technique tweaks, then consider magnetic hoops for faster, cleaner holding, and only then consider multi-needle capacity.
  • Diagnose: Time the workflow—if hooping takes ~5 minutes for a ~2-minute stitch-out, hooping is limiting output.
  • Level 1: Use spray adhesive or sticky stabilizer methods to reduce hoop burn and re-hooping.
  • Level 2: Switch to magnetic hoops to reduce hooping time and avoid fabric distortion/hoop burn from over-tightening.
  • Level 3: If stitching demand outpaces prep, consider workflow aids (like hooping stations) or a multi-needle machine for production efficiency.
  • Success check: Hooping becomes consistent and repeatable, with fewer puckers and less operator fatigue across multiple pillows.
  • If it still fails: Re-check stabilizer choice and reduce stitch speed (a slower pace often improves jagged line quality).