Table of Contents
- Primer: What this in-the-hoop block achieves (and when to use it)
- Prep: Fabric, wadding, bobbins, and files
- Setup: Hooping wadding as your stabilizer
- Operation: Stitch, place, and trim your first appliqué
- Quality checks: Validate each milestone
- Results & handoff: Sizes, trimming, and reversible options
- Troubleshooting & recovery
- From the comments
Video reference: “In The Hoop SDS 1238 Dragonfly” by the creator.
A clean, cozy block, stitched almost entirely in the hoop—that’s the charm of the SDS 1238 Dragonfly. This guide distills the start of the project so you can get from fabric pile to crisp first appliqué in one focused session.
What you’ll learn
- How to select and load the Dragonfly 12A design file and verify it fits your hoop.
- Why hooping bamboo wadding (instead of stabilizer) works for this project and how to do it.
- The exact order of the first stitch sequences: tackdown and moon outline, then moon appliqué.
- Trimming technique for a tidy appliqué: scissor angle, hoop rotation, and safety.
Primer: What this in-the-hoop block achieves (and when to use it) The SDS 1238 Dragonfly block is built as an in-the-hoop appliqué: your machine stitches a tackdown for the main fabric and outlines placement for the first appliqué (a moon shape), then you add the appliqué fabric, stitch it down, and trim it in the hoop. It’s a beginner-friendly entry point to making quilt blocks that can be finished to a consistent size.
This approach also lays the groundwork for reversible quilting: the presenter shows a layered build where the back looks neat because the bobbin matches the top thread, and where extra batting can be added behind the back fabric for warmth. If you prefer simpler construction, you can skip the extra back batting and keep it single-layer on the back—a point echoed by quilters in the community who find fewer layers less confusing when starting out.
From the community: One viewer shared a product link labeled SDS1238 at Stitch Delight, confirming the specific design set name. Another called out how helpful the trimming technique is—more on that below.
Watch out
- If you plan a reversible look, keep top and bobbin threads the same color. This avoids contrast outlines showing on the back.
- The project scales around design fit and hoop area—before you stitch, confirm the file fits your hoop in software. embroidery hoops magnetic
Prep: Fabric, wadding, bobbins, and files You’ll set yourself up for success with a short list of materials and a couple of precise cuts.
What you need - Design: Dragonfly 12A. Print the PDF instructions so the step labels are handy.
- Machine: The walkthrough uses a Janome embroidery machine; the process is general to in-the-hoop projects as long as your hoop accommodates the design.
- Thread: Choose one main color for outlines; wind at least three bobbins in that same color so the back looks tidy on reversible builds.
- Fabrics: 100% cotton is used. Pick a feature fabric for the background and two accent fabrics for appliqués (blue is used for the moon; others appear later).
- Wadding/Batting: Bamboo wadding is used as the hooped “stabilizer.” One side is fluffy; you’ll hoop it fluffy side up.
Cuts to make
- Top fabric: 13 inches square.
- Front wadding (hooped): 13 inches square.
- Backing fabric: 12 inches square.
- Backing wadding (if using extra warmth at the back): 12 inches square.
Why these sizes? Starting larger (13 inches) lets you stitch without crowding the hoop edges. When the block is complete, you’ll trim all blocks down consistently to 10.5 inches.
Quick check
- Design file loads into your software and fits your hoop size.
- At least three bobbins wound in your chosen outline color.
- Top fabric and hooped wadding cut to 13 inches square; backing pieces (if preparing now) at 12 inches.
Pro tip Choose a single outline thread color you love front and back, then match your bobbin to it. Consistency is the secret to reversible polish.
Optional gear that helps
- If you like to streamline placement and trimming, consider a hooping station or magnetic frames that fit your machine. They’re not required for this project, but many embroiderers find them helpful for in-the-hoop work. hoop master embroidery hooping station
Setup: Hooping wadding as your stabilizer Instead of hooping a separate stabilizer, the presenter hoops bamboo wadding directly and builds on top of it. This keeps the block warm and soft while providing sufficient support for the sequences shown.
Why wadding instead of stabilizer?
- You avoid a layer you would otherwise trim away.
- It contributes to warmth and loft for quilts.
- Bamboo wadding has a soft hand; the fluffy side up gives a friendly surface for the top fabric.
How to hoop the wadding 1) Find center: Fold the 13-inch wadding in half, then half again. Lightly crease to mark center. 2) Orient: Place the wadding in the hoop with the fluffy side facing up. 3) Tension: Smooth outward with your hands and tighten the hoop so the wadding is taut and evenly tensioned.
Quick check
- Wadding is centered in the hoop and drum-tight with no ripples.
- Fluffy side is facing up. magnetic hoops for janome embroidery machines
Pro tip (from the comments) Community feedback affirms bamboo wadding performs well under embroidery in this context.
Watch out If you switch back to a traditional cutaway stabilizer, don’t also hoop wadding at this stage. You would float the batting on top later—and you’ll need to adjust your sequence expectations accordingly.
Operation: Stitch, place, and trim your first appliqué With the wadding hooped and tensioned, you’re ready for the first sequences. In this project, Sequence 1 both tacks the main fabric and outlines the moon shape.
Step 1 — Place top fabric and run Sequence 1
- Lay the 13-inch top fabric square over the hooped wadding, smoothing wrinkles.
- Mount the hoop on the machine and start Sequence 1. This stitches a tackdown around the area and also draws the moon outline you’ll fill next.
Outcome expectation You should see a neat tackdown of the background fabric and a visible outline of the moon.
Quick check
- Fabric stayed flat—no puckers or drag marks.
- The moon outline is complete.
Decision point If your fabric shifted during stitching: stop and evaluate whether a light reposition and a repeated tackdown is needed. For heavier workflow convenience, some embroiderers float and secure larger fabrics with a light temporary method; use judgment with your machine and materials. dime snap hoop
Step 2 — Place moon fabric and run Sequence 2
- Cut a piece of your chosen moon fabric (blue in the walkthrough) slightly larger than the outline.
- Float it directly over the stitched moon outline, ensuring complete coverage.
- Re-mount the hoop and run Sequence 2 to tack the appliqué.
Outcome expectation The machine tacks around the moon shape, firmly securing the appliqué.
Quick check
- The tackdown encloses the entire appliqué area—no raw gaps.
- The blue fabric hasn’t shifted.
Step 3 — Trim the moon appliqué
- Remove the hoop from the machine.
- Using sharp scissors, trim the excess blue fabric close to the tackdown stitches.
- Technique matters: hold your scissors at a 45° angle and rotate the hoop as you cut. This gives you control, especially around curves.
Outcome expectation A cleanly trimmed moon appliqué with an even reveal just outside the tackdown stitches.
Watch out
- Keep the tips of your scissors angled away from the background fabric to avoid nicks.
- Don’t cut the tackdown stitches. If you do, restitch the outline before continuing. magnetic hoop for janome 500e
Pro tip (Nana’s rule) Rotate the hoop, not your scissors. This alone improves accuracy and reduces hand strain.
Step 4 — Prepare for the dragonfly outline
- Return the hoop to the machine.
- Run the next sequence to stitch the outline for the dragonfly element. You’ll add and trim those fabrics later in the project’s flow.
Quality checks: Validate each milestone After hooping
- Wadding is smooth and centered; no slack zones.
- Hooped layer passes a light finger tap without rippling.
After Sequence 1
- Background fabric is tacked evenly.
- Moon placement line is complete, visible, and unbroken.
After Sequence 2
- Tackdown fully encloses the appliqué.
- No bubbles or lifts under the moon fabric.
After trimming
- Clean, close trim without clipped stitches.
- Smooth curve around the moon with consistent margin.
Quick check If the trim looks ragged in tight curves, practice on a scrap with the same angle technique and slower cuts. hooping station for embroidery
Results & handoff: Sizes, trimming, and reversible options Block sizing
- Start size: Work on 13-inch top fabric with 13-inch hooped wadding.
- Finish size: Trim to 10.5 inches after all stitching is complete. This uniform size simplifies assembly.
Reversible construction
- Front stack (now): background fabric over hooped wadding.
- Back stack (later): backing fabric 12 inches square; optional extra batting 12 inches if you want added warmth and a cushioned feel.
Community note Some quilters found the extra back batting confusing on a first pass. If simplicity is the goal, omit the additional back batting and stick with a straightforward backing fabric piece.
Thread strategy
- If reversible: match bobbin to your top thread color.
- If not reversible: you have more flexibility, but the matched bobbin still looks tidy inside.
Pro tip Print the PDF and annotate it with your own checkpoints (e.g., “Sequence 1 = tack + moon outline”) so your notes reflect what you actually see on your machine.
Troubleshooting & recovery Symptom: Fabric shifted during Sequence 1
- Likely cause: Insufficient smoothing or friction on the top fabric.
- Fix: Pause, smooth the fabric, and consider securing the edges more deliberately before restarting the tackdown.
Symptom: Puckering on the background
- Likely cause: Wadding not taut in the hoop.
- Fix: Re-hoop the wadding with more tension; smooth from center out before tightening.
Symptom: Clipped tackdown stitches while trimming
- Likely cause: Scissors too flat or cutting too close on a tight curve.
- Fix: Re-run the tackdown line; re-trim with scissors at 45°, rotating the hoop to steer curves.
Symptom: Back shows contrasting outlines
- Likely cause: Bobbin color differs from top thread.
- Fix: Wind bobbins to match the top color before starting.
Quick isolation tests
- Run a short tackdown on a test sandwich (fabric + wadding) to confirm tension and trim technique before committing to your block.
- Trace the outline movement (no needle) to confirm the design fits your hoop path. janome 500e hoops
From the comments
- Pattern source: A viewer shared a product link labeled “SDS1238” at Stitch Delight.
- Fabric specifics: The floral fabric name wasn’t specified.
- New to embroidery? Machines vary in how they pause and step through sequences, but the key workflow here is universal: load the design, confirm fit, then run the sequences in order while placing and trimming appliqué where indicated.
- Material choice: Several community members praised bamboo wadding for behaving well during stitching.
- Favorite tip: Rotate the hoop, not the scissors, when trimming around curves—credited by multiple readers as a game-changer. magnetic embroidery hoops for janome 500e
Prep checklist
- Printed PDF instructions.
- Dragonfly 12A design file transferred to your machine.
- Three bobbins minimum, wound to match top thread.
- Top fabric and hooped wadding at 13 inches; optional back pieces cut to 12 inches.
Setup checklist
- Wadding hooped fluffy side up; centered and taut.
- Machine threaded with chosen outline color (matching bobbin loaded).
Operation checklist
- Sequence 1: Background tackdown + moon outline complete.
- Sequence 2: Moon fabric placed, tacked, and cleanly trimmed.
- Next sequence: Dragonfly outline stitched.
Pro tip If you’re assembling multiple blocks, cut all top fabrics and waddings to 13 inches at once. Batch work speeds you up and keeps sizing consistent across the quilt. magnetic embroidery hoops for janome 500e