Kimberbell Mummy Tie-On (6x10 Hoop): The Clean, Fast In-the-Hoop Method—Plus the Trimming & Hooping Traps That Ruin It

If you have ever pulled a finished project out of the hoop, turned it over, and whispered, “Please don’t let me have cut the ribbon…,” you are in the right place. The Kimberbell Mummy Tie-On is a delightful, forgiving Halloween stitch-out—but mechanically, it is a minefield of potential errors. It involves raw edges that love to snag the presser foot, multiple layers of density, and a finish that requires surgical trimming.

This is not just a recap of a video; this is a reconstruction of the workflow based on industrial best practices. We will rebuild the process to prioritize safety, clean edges, and stress reduction—especially focusing on how to manage the physics of stabilizer, felt, and compression.

Supplies for the Kimberbell Mummy Tie-On Design (Medium Size) That Actually Matter in the Hoop

When preparing for an In-The-Hoop (ITH) project, amateurs look at the colors; professionals look at the mechanics. This project is built around the Kimberbell Mummy design in the Medium size, which dictates a minimum physical field area of a 6x10 hoop (approx. 160mm x 260mm).

Note: Some machines with specific effective stitching areas may require you to jump up to an 8x12 hoop. Always check the file properties against your machine’s actual stitch limits, not just the hoop label.

The Material Physics

• Thread: White embroidery thread (40 wt polyester is standard) for the body; Black embroidery thread for pupils and high-contrast placement lines.
• Stabilizer: Heavy-weight Tear-Away. (Recommendation: Look for a stabilizer that feels stiff like cardstock, not soft like tissue. It needs to support felt compression).
• Ribbon: Two pieces, 12 inches each. Texture matters here—grosgrain holds the tape better than satin.
• Black Felt: Two pieces, 6 x 7.5 inches. Use a dense craft felt or wool blend; cheap acrylic felt can thin out under stitching.
• White Background Fabric: Fused with Shape-Flex SF101. The directions call for two layers. Why? Because white fabric over black felt turns gray. The interfacing acts as an opacity shield.
• Iridescent Mylar: Folded to create two layers. This reflects light through the stitching for that "spooky" eye effect.
• Water-Soluble Topper: Essential. This is your "shield" against presser foot snags.
• Tape: Paper tape (Kimberbell/medical) or RNK pink tape. Avoid standard unexpected office tape as it leaves residue on the needle.

One keyword that trips people up: if you’re working with an embroidery machine 6x10 hoop, verify the design orientation on your screen before you stitch the first placement marks. The number one cause of "wasted felt" is loading a rotated design into a non-rotated hoop.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Stitch: Stabilizer Tension, Tape Strategy, and Why Felt Behaves Differently

This project starts with only stabilizer hooped—no fabric yet. This is standard for ITH projects, but it is also the source of 80% of registration errors (where outlines don't match the fill).

Here is the principle: Tear-away stabilizer is your temporary foundation. If it is loose, the first placement stitches will distort. When you later add heavy felt and fabric, that weight will pull on the loose stabilizer, dragging your design off-center.

The "Drum-Tight" Sensory Test

How do you know if your hoop is tight enough? Do not trust your eyes; trust your ears and fingers.

1. Tactile: Push the center of the stabilizer. It should have almost zero give.
2. Auditory: Tap it with your fingernail. It should make a sharp, high-pitched "thump" or "ping," similar to a drum skin. If it sounds dull or thuds, tighten it.

Tape strategy matters more than people think. Tape isn’t just about holding materials down; it is about deflecting the presser foot. Pam repeatedly tapes outside placement lines. This ensures the foot glides over the tape rather than hooking the edge of it.

Prep Checklist (Do this before the hoop goes on the machine)

• Hoop Tension: Stabilizer is "drum-tight" (passed the tap test).
• Ribbon Prep: Ends heat-sealed (if synthetic) to prevent fraying during handling.
• Felt Sizing: Cut exactly to 6 x 7.5 inches. (Too small = gaps; Too large = waste/bulk).
• Opacity Shield: White fabric fused with two layers of SF101.
• Tape Staging: Tape torn into 2-inch strips and stuck to the table edge. Don't fight the roll mid-process.
• Blade Check: Are your applique scissors sharp? (New blades cut; dull blades chew).

Stitch Ribbon Placement Marks on Tear-Away Stabilizer (and Don’t Rush This Part)

Load the design and stitch step one. The machine will fire two small hash marks onto the bare stabilizer.

Why this matters: These marks dictate the symmetry of the tie-on. If your stabilizer shifted during hooping, these marks will be crooked, and your mummy will hang sideways on the jar/bottle.

Checkpoint: Look closely at the stitch quality on the stabilizer. If the stabilizer is "tunneling" (puckering up) where the needle hit, your hoop tension is too loose. Stop and re-hoop now. It is cheaper to waste a sheet of stabilizer than the felt and ribbon later.

Tape the Ribbon Like a Production Stitcher: 1/2" Inside the Marks, Tape Outside the Stitch Zone

Pam places each ribbon about 1/2 inch inside the placement marks. This geometry is critical. The "inside" placement ensures the ribbon is caught deeply enough by the tack-down stitch to prevent it from pulling out later.

The Danger Zone: The next stitching passes will occur very close to where the ribbon enters the design area.

• Risk: If you tape inside the stitch zone, the needle will perforate the tape, making it hard to remove and gumming up the needle eye.
• Risk: If the tape is loose, the presser foot (which lifts and lowers rapidly) can catch the edge of the tape, lifting the ribbon into the needle path.

Action: Tape the ribbon down outside the horizontal placement lines. Press the tape down firmly with a fingernail or seam roller. It should look like part of the stabilizer.

Build the Felt Base: Placement Line + Zigzag Tack-Down Over the Ribbon Zone

Next, switch to black thread momentarily if you need high visibility (or stick with white if you trust the file). The machine will stitch a placement box. Cover this box with your black felt.

The machine will perform a zigzag tack-down. Why a zigzag? A straight stitch on soft felt can sometimes act like a perforation line (like a stamp), allowing the felt to tear. A zigzag distributes the tension across a wider area—crucial for the points where the ribbon is anchored.

Checkpoint: Ensure the felt covers the placement box with at least a 1/8 inch margin on all sides.

If you are doing volume production of these items, this step is where fatigue sets in. Wrestling thick felt into standard hoops often leads to "hoop burn" (permanent creases) on the material or wrist strain for you. This is a scenario where professionals often realize that standard hoops are the bottleneck. Improving your hooping for embroidery machine workflow—perhaps by checking alignment tools or ergonomic stations—can save significant time here.

The “Cut-a-Hole First” Trick for the White Background Fabric (It Saves Your Felt)

While the machine stitches the placement line for the white fabric, prepare your fabric sandwich (White cotton + 2 layers SF101).

The Expert Move: Cut a small slit or hole in the center of the white fabric stack before placing it.

The "Why": Later, you will need to trim the fabric inside the mummy’s diamond-shaped opening to reveal the black felt underneath.

• Without the pre-cut hole: You have to pinch the fabric to separate it from the felt, insert scissors blindly, and pray you don't snip the black felt base.
• With the pre-cut hole: You already have an entry point for your scissors. Zero risk to the base layer.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Appliqué trimming places your fingers millimeters from the needle bar. Always delete the entry/exit command or ensure the machine is fully stopped. Do not trim while the machine is "resting" if your foot is near the pedal.

Trim the Inner Opening and Outer Edge Without Nicking the Black Felt

After the white fabric is tacked down, you must trim:

1. The inner diamond opening (revealing the black face).
2. The outer perimeter.

Precision Technique: Do not lift the fabric straight up. Pull it slightly away from the stitches while resting the blade of your duckbill (appliqué) scissors flat against the stitches.

Old-Pro Tip: When trimming an inner circle or diamond, rotate the hoop, not your scissors. Keep your hand in a comfortable, stabilized position and spin the hoop like a steering wheel. This prevents jagged "hack marks" on the curve.

The Mylar Eye Hack: Keep White Eyes Bright Over Black Felt

White thread over black felt often looks dull because the black absorbs the light. To get those "cartoon bright" eyes, we need a barrier.

Solution: Place two layers of folded iridescent Mylar over the eye zone. Tape both horizontal ends securely. Mylar is slippery; if it shifts, the needle will hit the edge and shatter the film or shred the thread.

Stitch the white sclera, then the black pupils. Tear the excess Mylar away gently.

Checkpoint: Look for tiny bits of Mylar poking out. If you see them, use tweezers to remove them.

If you are struggling to keep these slippery toppers flat, consider your workstation. A stable surface is key. Many users find a hooping station for embroidery machine allows them to tape toppers with two hands before bringing the hoop to the machine, ensuring consistent tension on these delicate layers.

Raw-Edge “Bandage” Strips: Mark 3/4", Clip 1", Rip for the Perfect Worn Look

The "mummy" look comes from textured, raw edges.

1. Mark your white fabric every 3/4 inch.
2. Clip about 1 inch up with scissors.
3. Rip the rest of the way.

Material Science: Ripping fabric follows the grain line perfectly, simpler than cutting, and leaves that fuzzy, fibrous edge that looks authentic. You need 10 usable strips (5 for layer one, 5 for layer two). Discard the clean-cut selvage ends.

“Pam’s Method” vs the Safer Method: Holding Strips One-by-One Without Getting Bitten

The instructions may suggest placing one strip, stitching it, lifting the foot, placing the next, and repeating. Pam calls this her "cheating" method.

Risk Assessment: This requires your hands to be constantly entering and exiting the needle zone. The Safer Protocol:

1. Place Strip 1. Tape it.
2. Place Strip 2. Tape it.
3. (Repeat for all 5).
4. Run the stitch sequence.

If you choose the "one-by-one" method for speed:

• Sensory Cue: Listen for the machine to fully stop.
• Visual Cue: Wait for the green button (on Brother/Babylock) or screen prompt.
• Action: Keep fingers at least 2 inches away from the foot. Use a stiletto or the eraser end of a pencil to hold the strip if needed—never your finger.

For those running a business, consistency is key. Using a system like a hoopmaster hooping station teaches you to stage materials identically every time, reducing the chaotic energy of fumbling for strips mid-stitch.

The Topper Shield Move: Stop the Presser Foot from Catching the First Layer of Raw Edges

This is the most critical technical tip in the article.

After stitching the first 5 bandages and roughly trimming them, you have a minefield of raw, lifted fabric edges. When the foot moves to stitch the next layer, it can easily catch a lifted edge, flipping the bandage over or causing a bird's nest.

The Fix: Tape a layer of water-soluble topper (like Solvy) over the entire first layer of bandages.

• Physics: The topper presses the raw edges flat and provides a smooth, slippery surface for the metal foot to glide over.
• Result: Zero snags.

Tape the topper at the top and bottom. Do not skip this.

Stitch the Second Diagonal Layer, Then Trim Like You Mean It (Clean Edges Read “Professional”)

Repeat the strip placement for the second layer (over the topper). Stitch, then remove the topper (it tears away easily) and trim the bandage ends.

Aesthetic Note: Trim close to the outline, but don't stress about perfection. It’s a mummy. A little raggedness adds character. However, insure you do not clip the functional stay-stitches that hold the mummy together.

The In-the-Hoop Backing Felt Finish: Hide Bobbin Stitches Without Unhooping Anything

This step converts the project from "embroidery" to "finished product."

1. Remove the hoop from the machine (Do NOT unhoop the material).
2. Flip the hoop over.
3. Tape the second piece of black felt to the back of the hoop, covering the stitch area. overlap the placement lines by 1/8 inch.
4. Tape all four corners securely. Painters tape or masking tape is good here; it needs to hold against gravity.

Trigger Point: This is the moment stitchers hate. Flipping a standard hoop, trying to tape the back without the front popping out, or having the inner ring slip... it is frustrating.

The Solution Path: If you find yourself dreading the "flip and tape" because the hoop feels unstable or the layers slip:

• Level 1: Use more tape.
• Level 2: This is the specific pain point magnetic embroidery hoops solve completely. The strong magnetic hold clamps thick sandwiches (Stabilizer + Felt + Fabric + Fabric + Felt) without the "screw-tightening" struggle, and the flat profile makes back-taping significantly easier.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Magnetic hoops use industrial-grade neodymium magnets. They are powerful.
* Pinch Hazard: They can snap together with enough force to bruise or break fingers. Handle with respect.
* Medical Devices: Keep them at least 6 inches away from pacemakers and insulin pumps.
* Electronics: Do not place them directly on your computerized machine screen or laptop hard drives.

Tear Away Stabilizer First, Then Trim to 1/8"—This Order Prevents a Lot of Swearing

Sequence matters.

1. Tear Away: Remove the stabilizer from the stitching before you do the final trim.
   • Why? The stabilizer provides a handle to grip. If you trim the felt small first, you have nothing to hold onto to rip the stabilizer out of the crevices.
2. Trim: Use long, sharp shears to cut the felt outline, leaving a 1/8 inch border.

The Ribbon-Saving Trim Technique: Stop, Lift, Flip—Don’t “Just Cut Through”

You are at the finish line. Do not sprint and trip. You have two ribbons hanging out the sides, sandwiched between the front and back felt.

The Error: Cutting the perimeter and slicing right through the ribbon.

The Technique:

1. Trim the felt perimeter until you reach the ribbon. STOP.
2. Lift the top layer of felt. Slide your scissors under it (over the ribbon) and snip only the top felt.
3. Flip the project over. Lift the bottom backing felt. Snip only the bottom felt.
4. The ribbon remains uncut and securely anchored in the middle.

If you are running lots of these (say, 50 for a craft fair), the repetitive stress of unhooping and trimming adds up. While technique helps, consider if magnetic hooping station setups or compatible magnetic frames for your specific machine model would reduce the physical toll. Saving 30 seconds per hoop adds up to hours of profit.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer + Topper Choices for Felt-and-Appliqué ITH Projects

Use this logical flow to determine exactly what consumables you need.

• 1. Is the base layer Felt?
  • YES: Use Heavy Tear-Away. (Must be drum-tight to prevent compression distortion).
  • NO: Check your manual (Standard cutaway might be needed for knits).
• 2. Is the thread color high contrast (e.g., White on Black)?
  • YES: Mandatory Topper/Barrier. Use Mylar (shiny) or a permanent topping.
  • NO: Standard thread coverage is sufficient.
• 3. Are there Raw Edges (applique strips) involved?
  • YES: Water-Soluble Topper Shield. Tape it over the first layer to prevent foot snags during the second pass.
  • NO: Proceed normally.
• 4. Is the Hooping/Re-hooping process causing wrist pain or hoop burn?
  • YES: Evaluate an upgrade. For example, babylock magnetic hoops (or equivalent for your brand) reduce the physical force needed to clamp thick layers.
  • NO: Continue with standard hoops, but check screw tension regularly.

Troubleshooting the Mummy Tie-On: Symptoms → Causes → Fixes

Setup Checklist (Right before you press Start)

• Design: Correct size (Medium) loaded; orientation checked.
• Hoop: Stabilizer is drum-tight (Auditory check: "Ping").
• Thread: White bobbin thread loaded (for reversible finish).
• Tools: Applique scissors and seam ripper within arm's reach.

Operation Checklist (Keep this manual by the machine)

• Ribbon Safety: Watch the foot as it approaches the ribbon tape—stop if it catches.
• Eye Barrier: Mylar taped down on both sides.
• Edge Shield: Topper applied over Bandage Layer 1.
• Finishing: Trim Top Felt -> Stop -> Trim Bottom Felt (Save the Ribbon!).

FAQ

• Q: How do I verify drum-tight hooping for heavy Tear-Away stabilizer on an In-The-Hoop felt project like the Kimberbell Mummy Tie-On?
  A: Hoop only the heavy Tear-Away stabilizer and tighten until it passes the “drum test” before stitching any placement marks.
  • Push-test the center: almost zero give.
  • Tap-test with a fingernail: listen for a sharp high “ping/thump,” not a dull thud.
  • Re-hoop immediately if the first stitches make the stabilizer pucker or “tunnel.”
  • Success check: the stabilizer sounds tight and stays flat after the first hash marks stitch.
  • If it still fails, stop and re-hoop with a fresh sheet—wasting stabilizer is cheaper than wasting felt, ribbon, and time.
• Q: How do I prevent presser foot snags on raw-edge “mummy bandage” strips during the second stitching pass on an ITH applique project?
  A: Cover the entire first layer of bandage strips with water-soluble topper taped at the top and bottom to create a smooth glide surface.
  • Tape the topper so it presses lifted raw edges flat (do not leave loose corners).
  • Stitch the second diagonal layer over the topper.
  • Tear away the topper after stitching, then trim bandage ends.
  • Success check: the presser foot travels over the first layer without flipping strips or creating a bird’s nest.
  • If it still fails, stop and re-tape the topper tighter; lifted edges are usually the root cause.
• Q: How do I keep white embroidered eyes bright when stitching white thread over black felt in an ITH felt design?
  A: Add a light-reflecting barrier by taping down two layers of folded iridescent Mylar over the eye area before stitching the eyes.
  • Fold Mylar to create two layers and position it only over the eye zone.
  • Tape both horizontal ends firmly because Mylar is slippery and can shift.
  • Stitch the white sclera first, then the black pupils; gently tear away excess Mylar.
  • Success check: the white eyes look clean and bright instead of gray/dull, with no black felt fiber showing through.
  • If it still fails, check for Mylar shifting during stitch-out and re-tape more securely before re-running the eye step.
• Q: How do I stop ITH ribbons from pulling out after finishing the Kimberbell Mummy Tie-On tie points?
  A: Place each ribbon end about 1/2 inch inside the stitched placement marks and tape outside the stitch zone so the tack-down stitches catch the ribbon deeply.
  • Position ribbon ends inside the marks (too far out = stitches barely grab the ribbon).
  • Tape the ribbon down outside the horizontal placement lines to avoid stitching through tape.
  • Press tape firmly so the presser foot cannot hook the tape edge and shift the ribbon.
  • Success check: after completion, tug the ribbon firmly and it stays anchored without sliding out.
  • If it still fails, re-check ribbon geometry first; shallow placement is the most common cause.
• Q: What is the safest way to trim the inner opening and outer edge on an ITH applique step without nicking the black felt base layer?
  A: Pre-cut a small slit/hole in the center of the white fabric stack before placement, then trim by rotating the hoop rather than twisting your scissors.
  • Cut a small entry slit in the fabric sandwich before placing it so scissors can enter without digging toward the felt.
  • Pull fabric slightly away from the stitches and keep duckbill/appliqué scissors flat to the stitch line.
  • Rotate the hoop like a steering wheel for smooth curves/diamonds.
  • Success check: the black felt face area is cleanly revealed with no accidental snips or gouges.
  • If it still fails, slow down and re-check that the machine is fully stopped before hands enter the needle area.
• Q: What mechanical safety steps should be followed when trimming appliqué fabric close to the needle area on an embroidery machine?
  A: Only trim when the embroidery machine is fully stopped and the start/stop control is not in a state where accidental motion can occur.
  • Stop the machine completely before placing fingers or scissors near the needle bar area.
  • Avoid trimming while the machine is “resting” if there is any chance of activation (for example, a nearby pedal).
  • Keep hands a safe distance and use tools (appliqué scissors) deliberately rather than rushing.
  • Success check: trimming is done with zero needle movement and no unexpected machine motion.
  • If it still fails, pause the job and confirm the machine is in a fully stopped state per the machine’s operating method.
• Q: When thick ITH felt “sandwich” layers cause standard embroidery hoops to pop open during stitching, what is the step-by-step upgrade path from technique to magnetic hoops to a multi-needle setup?
  A: Start by adjusting technique and hoop setup, then move to a magnetic hoop for thick assemblies if hoop stability remains the bottleneck, and only then consider a production-focused multi-needle workflow.
  • Level 1 (Technique): loosen/adjust hoop screw appropriately and ensure heavy Tear-Away stabilizer is drum-tight before adding layers.
  • Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): switch to a magnetic hoop designed to clamp thick stacks more evenly and reduce screw-tightening struggle.
  • Level 3 (Capacity Upgrade): if volume production makes hooping/trimming fatigue the limiting factor, evaluate a production-oriented machine setup for throughput.
  • Success check: the hoop remains closed and registration stays consistent through tack-down and finishing steps.
  • If it still fails, reduce variables first (re-hoop stabilizer, re-check tape placement), then test a magnetic hoop to confirm the clamp strength solves the popping issue.
• Q: What safety precautions are required when using industrial-strength magnetic embroidery hoops near electronics and medical devices?
  A: Handle magnetic hoops as pinch-hazard tools and keep them away from sensitive medical devices and electronics.
  • Keep fingers clear when magnets snap together to avoid bruising or injury.
  • Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers and insulin pumps.
  • Avoid placing magnetic hoops directly on computerized screens or near devices that could be affected.
  • Success check: magnets are controlled during handling with no sudden snapping onto fingers or nearby devices.
  • If it still fails, store magnets separated and move them to a dedicated, cleared surface before hooping.