Mastering Machine Cutwork Embroidery: A Step-by-Step Guide

What is Machine Cutwork Embroidery?

Cutwork combines solid embroidery with areas where fabric is intentionally removed, leaving openwork framed by stitches. The hallmark move is cutting fabric precisely inside stitched boundaries, then enclosing the raw edge with dense satin stitches. The result is decorative, durable openings that elevate table linens, garments, and textile art.

From the workflow demonstrated here, you’ll stitch strong outlines, remove selected fabric sections with sharp scissors, and finish edges by machine before adding optional lattice infills for texture and depth.

Quick check

• A proper cutwork outline is dense and continuous. Before any cutting, every edge to be removed must be traced by stitches you can follow with confidence.

From the comments

• Several viewers asked about a downloadable machine file. The creator clarified the piece can be used as a model for making computer embroidery patterns.

Context note

• The project shows white thread building outlines and motifs, then gold thread for accent fills and lattice. That color choreography creates structure first, then embellishment.

Preparing Your Design and Fabric for Cutwork

This project begins with a paper pattern placed on the fabric to transfer the design. The fabric is secured in an embroidery hoop with even tension so the machine can lay down accurate outlines.

Pro tip

• Taut, wrinkle-free hooping is your insurance policy against distortion. If the fabric drifts during cutting or finishing, edges won’t meet your stitches.

Watch out

• Loose hooping leads directly to puckering and misaligned edges. If you see slack, pause and re-hoop before stitching.

Next, color setup: white thread is loaded first to establish the strong design outline. Confirm the thread is correctly threaded and seated.

From the comments

• One viewer asked which machine and frame were used and whether the fabric was framed. The creator noted using a SINGER machine, BAWA fabric, and a wooden frame for this piece.

• Another question asked which model and whether software was involved. The creator answered that they use an industrial SINGER 20U, worked manually without software.

Decision point: hooping aids

• If you already rely on modern hoop aids, you can continue to use them with cutwork. Some embroiderers favor magnetic embroidery hoops to keep layers steady during dense outlines.

• If you do not have aids, classic inner/outer hoop frames work well—as long as you maintain truly even tension across the field.

Checklist — Prep

• Paper pattern positioned for tracing

• Fabric hooped evenly; no wrinkles or slack

• White thread loaded and threaded correctly

• Design file prepared if using a computerized setup (the demo uses manually guided stitching)

Step-by-Step Guide to Machine Cutwork

1) Embroidering the Base Outlines (White)

Start the machine and stitch the thick, raised outlines that define the motif. These create the walls of your future cutwork windows. Continue to form smaller decorative elements (such as small flowers) with the same white thread.

Quick check - Lines should be dense, continuous, and follow your traced design. If you see skipped stitches or loops, pause.

Fix it fast

• Re-thread the machine and verify upper tension if outlines look loose.

• Re-hoop if you notice fabric shifting; drift now will magnify during cutting.

Expected outcome - Clean, substantial white outlines, with initial small accents completed.

Pro tip

• Finish all outline segments that will later contain cutting—no gaps. Missing a boundary now risks ragged cuts or unprotected raw edges later.

2) Add Accent and Fill Details (Gold)

Change to yellow/gold thread. Stitch inner leaf details and larger accents within (or adjacent to) your white framework. This deepens the design before you begin any cutting.

Quick check - Confirm the new thread color is correctly loaded and tension is smooth. Gold accents should sit neatly without looping or tunneling.

Fix it fast

• If gold thread doesn’t lay flat, fine-tune tension and reseat the spool.

Expected outcome

• Elegant contrast: white structure supporting gold details.

3) Reinforce Boundaries (White) Before Cutting

Return to white as needed to complete any remaining outlines—especially those that directly define the shapes you’ll cut. Reinforce clarity and continuity: you’re creating a map for safe cutting.

Watch out

• If any section that will be cut lacks a closed outline, do not proceed. Stitch it now. Cutting without a stitched fence invites fraying and tears.

Checklist — Setup

• All outlines for future cutwork are closed

• Stitching is dense enough to guide cutting and support satin edges

• Color/tension checked after each thread change

4) The Delicate Art of Cutting the Fabric

Unhoop is not shown; in this workflow, cutting is performed with the fabric supported. Using small, sharp, pointed scissors, carefully cut only the fabric inside your stitched boundary. Remove each cut piece to reveal a clean window.

Quick check

• You are cutting on the inside edge of the stitched outline—not outside it, not through it.

Pro tip

• Take tiny snips, especially near tight curves and points; let the stitched wall be your guide.

Expected outcome

• A crisp opening bordered by intact white stitching.

Decision point: tool control

• If you prefer stabilizing aids for delicate areas, some stitchers find an embroidery magnetic hoop helps maintain grip during precision work.

5) Finish Raw Edges with Satin Stitch

Return the hooped fabric to the machine. Stitch dense satin stitches directly over the raw edge, traveling around the full perimeter of the opening. The stitches must encapsulate the fabric edge completely.

Quick check

• Coverage is full—no raw fibers peeking through.

Fix it fast

• If a hairline of fabric peeks out, rerun a short segment to close the gap.

Expected outcome

• A smooth, durable border that prevents fraying and frames the window cleanly.

6) Repeat: Cutwork + Satin Edge for All Windows

Continue the sequence: stitch any additional outlines that support new cut-outs, then cut, then satin-finish the new raw edges. Maintain consistent cutting control and edge density for a harmonious look across the design.

Pro tip - Consistency is key: use the same pacing and scissor angle on every window. The machine’s satin stitch will unify the look if your cuts are even.

Checklist — Operation

• Outline stitched → fabric cut → satin edge stitched, in that exact order for each opening

• Raw edges fully enclosed by dense stitches

• Visual consistency across all windows

Adding Intricate Lattice and Filler Details

Once all primary cutwork openings are finished, switch back to gold thread to add lattice infill on larger windows. The lattice is a criss-cross stitch pattern that spans open areas, adding texture and complexity without sacrificing the airy feel.

Quick check

• Lattice lines should be even and centered in the open area. Confirm tension is balanced; lines should be clean and unbroken.

Fix it fast

• If spacing appears irregular, adjust the stitch density or speed and complete the motif cleanly.

Expected outcome

• A refined, decorative lattice that enriches the openness of the cutwork.

Decision point: equipment comfort

• If you typically use layout aids, many makers place their fabric with magnetic embroidery frames or a hooping station for embroidery for larger windows; stick with whichever gives you steadiness and sightlines.

Tips and Tricks for Flawless Cutwork Embroidery

Achieving crisp cuts

• Use sharp, fine-point scissors and make micro-snips to stay safely inside the outline.

• Cut gradually—never force a turn. Rotate the fabric as needed to keep the blade aligned with the inner edge.

Ensuring even satin stitch coverage

• Aim for dense, even edges that wrap the raw fabric fully.

• If you notice inconsistent coverage, stitch a corrective pass over the missed segment.

Thread changes with confidence

• After every change (white → gold → white), watch the first few inches of stitching to confirm tension. Slight adjustments now prevent widespread issues.

Pro tip

• If you routinely handle dense outlines and repeated rehooping, some embroiderers prefer magnetic hoops for embroidery machines to minimize fabric distortion between passes.

Watch out

• Do not cut before all outlines are stitched. Cutting prematurely leaves raw edges unsupported and prone to fraying or tearing during finishing.

Caring for Your Finished Cutwork Embroidery

Finalization - Let the machine complete any remaining outlines or accents. Carefully remove the fabric from the machine and inspect every opening for full coverage. Trim loose thread tails neatly.

Storage and display

• Store flat to prevent creasing across openwork. When displaying, ensure cut-out areas aren’t snagged by hardware.

Quick check

• Run a fingertip along each satin edge. It should feel smooth and continuous with no loose fibers.

Troubleshooting & Recovery

Symptom: loops or puckering during outlines

• Likely cause: uneven hooping tension or upper thread tension off.

• Fix: Re-hoop for even tension; re-thread and adjust tension; test a short segment before proceeding.

Symptom: ragged cut edge or nicked stitches

• Likely cause: cutting too close or outside the stitched boundary; dull scissors.

• Fix: Use sharp, pointed scissors; take tiny snips; if a stitch is nicked, repair by re-stitching that segment before doing the satin finish.

Symptom: exposed raw edge after satin stitching

• Likely cause: edge density too light or path didn’t fully overlap the raw edge.

• Fix: Add a careful second pass over the missed section.

Symptom: uneven or broken lattice

• Likely cause: tension not balanced after color change; spacing misalignment.

• Fix: Re-check tension; slow down for lattice; complete clean intersections.

From the comments

• Frequent thread breaks (noted by a viewer using a 20U): the creator says breaks can stem from many causes and suggests a technician check the machine.

Note on bobbin thread

• A viewer asked which thread to use in the bobbin. The source material does not cover bobbin winding or thread type for the bobbin.

Pro tip

• If you need steadier placement during edge finishing, some makers appreciate a secure-grip embroidery frame; others rely on a modern magnetic hooping station for repeatable positioning.

Results & Handoff

What “done” looks like

• Strong white outlines define your motif

• Cleanly cut windows with satin-encased edges

• Gold accents add depth; optional lattice enriches larger openings

• No loose threads; edges feel smooth to the touch

Sharing your work

• Photograph on a contrasting background so openings and lattice are visible.

From the comments

Answers summarized for clarity and privacy:

• Which machine and software? The creator uses an industrial SINGER 20U, worked manually without software.

• Do you frame the fabric? The creator mentioned a wooden frame and referenced BAWA fabric for this piece.

• Can you share a DST file? The piece can be used as a model to create computer embroidery patterns.

• My machine breaks threads—what now? The creator suggests consulting a technician, as many factors can cause breaks.

Glossary

• Outline: Dense stitched line that defines where you will cut

• Cutwork window: The fabric area removed inside stitched boundaries

• Satin stitch: Dense zigzag that covers and protects the raw edge

• Lattice: Decorative criss-cross infill stitched across an open window

Final encouragement Cutwork rewards patience and sequence discipline. Prioritize closed outlines, cut with care, and let dense satin stitches do the protective, beautifying work. With those fundamentals, your designs will gain that airy, heirloom quality—every time.

From the toolkit

• If you already use them in your studio, options like magnetic hoops or an embroidery magnetic hoop can help keep fabric steady during dense edge work.