Table of Contents
- Primer: What This Method Achieves (and When to Use It)
- Prep: Tools, Materials, and Files
- Setup: Placement Logic, Stabilizer Choice, and Hooping Strategy
- Operation: Embroidering the Canvas Tote
- Operation: Embroidering the Clear Plastic Tote
- Quality Checks: Verify Before, During, and After
- Results & Handoff: Cleaning, Trimming, and Care
- Troubleshooting & Recovery
- From the comments
Video reference: “Machine Embroidering Two Different Style Tote Bags | Ricoma EM1010” by Kayla's Homestead & More.
Two tote styles, one bold design. This guide shows you exactly how to place, hoop, stitch, and finish on both a black canvas tote and a clear plastic tote—cleanly and confidently.
What you’ll learn
- How to choose stabilizers for canvas vs. clear plastic
- Precise placement using a printed template and multi-run tracing
- Hooping strategies with a magnetic Mighty Hoop to tame thick and slick materials
- Finishing steps for canvas and clear totes, including dissolving water-soluble mesh and trimming tails
H2: Primer: What This Method Achieves (and When to Use It) Embroidering totes adds personality and function in one go. Here, the same “Crazy Chicken Lady” design is stitched on two very different substrates: a black canvas tote and a clear plastic tote. The result is a pair of durable bags that showcase crisp letterforms and a textured leopard-print “LADY” without distortion.
- Canvas bag: Uses cutaway stabilizer for a firm base. Placement is verified with a printed template and pins.
- Clear plastic bag: Uses a thicker mesh water-soluble stabilizer. No pins—tape the stabilizer to the hoop to avoid permanent holes.
Context notes
- The design is a purchased embroidery file (not self-digitized). If you want a similar look, shop reputable marketplaces for ready-to-stitch files.
- The creator later notes the clear bag has held up well with ongoing use, underscoring that the method here produces a durable result when executed carefully.
Pro tip Use a magnetic hoop sized to the design area to clamp evenly across thick bag layers. mighty hoop magnetic embroidery hoops
Watch out Keep straps, seams, and the tote’s opposite wall well clear of the sewing field so the machine doesn’t catch them mid-stitch. If in doubt, pause and reposition.
H2: Prep: Tools, Materials, and Files Tote styles and design
- 1 black canvas tote bag
- 1 clear plastic tote bag (square bottom with zipper)
- Digitized embroidery design file (the “Crazy Chicken Lady” file was used)
Hardware and hooping
- Ricoma EM1010 multi-needle embroidery machine
- 8x9 Mighty Hoop (magnetic hoop) for secure clamping on thick materials
Stabilizers
- Cutaway stabilizer (canvas tote)
- Mesh water-soluble stabilizer (clear tote)
Accessories and layout aids
- Printed design template (printed from embroidery software) for placement
- Pins (canvas only)
- Masking tape (for taping stabilizer to hoop on clear tote)
- Tape measure
- Scissors and embroidery scissors
- Lint roller (finishing the clear tote’s interior)
- Running water (to dissolve water-soluble stabilizer)
From the comments: quick clarifications
- Needle size: The creator later recalled using about a 75/11 for this project.
- Waterproof backing on canvas: Not used.
- Hoop sourcing: An 8x9 Mighty Hoop was purchased from hoopmaster.com.
Pro tip Printed paper templates speed up centering. Tape or pin the template, then verify with a ruler before hooping. hoopmaster
Quick check Before moving on, confirm you have: the right stabilizer per tote, a printed template, and a hoop that fits inside the bag body with clearance.
Prep checklist
- Design file loaded on your machine
- Template printed to scale
- Cutaway for canvas; water-soluble mesh for clear
- 8x9 magnetic hoop and masking tape
- Scissors, tape measure, pins (canvas only)
H2: Setup: Placement Logic, Stabilizer Choice, and Hooping Strategy Placement logic - Canvas: Center the design using a printed template and pins. Double-check with a tape measure horizontally and vertically to balance the look.
- Clear: Don’t pin—use the bag’s interior fold lines (from the square bottom) as visual guides. Center the template to those lines.
Stabilizer rationale
- Canvas: Cutaway stands up to dense stitching on thicker woven fabric and helps prevent distortion.
- Clear: A thicker mesh water-soluble stabilizer provides temporary support under the plastic without leaving anything permanent behind.
Hooping strategy - Canvas: Insert the bottom hoop inside the tote; lay cutaway stabilizer over it; press on the top hoop to clamp all layers. Feel inside to ensure the stabilizer fully captured.
- Clear: Tape water-soluble mesh to the hoop first—this prevents it from collapsing inward while you position the hoop inside the bag. Then clamp the bag and stabilizer together.
Watch out Do not use pins on clear plastic. Holes don’t self-heal. Tape the stabilizer to the hoop instead.
Pro tip Multiple trace passes are your secret alignment tool. Trace, nudge, and trace again until you’re satisfied.
Setup checklist
- Template centered and secured (pins for canvas; tape/visual guides for clear)
- Stabilizer selected and sized (cutaway for canvas; water-soluble mesh for clear)
- Hoops seated evenly with no puckers
H2: Operation: Embroidering the Canvas Tote 1) Place and confirm - Position the printed template at your chosen location; pin, then double-check measurements to verify true center.
2) Hoop the tote - Slip the bottom hoop inside the bag; lay cutaway over the ring; clamp with the top hoop. Run your hand inside to ensure the stabilizer didn’t slip.
3) Mount and trace - Mount the hooped bag on the machine. Keep straps and excess fabric clear of the sewing field. Select a needle position for tracing (the creator used needle 1 for trace) and run a trace around the design field. Adjust left/right/up/down as needed; trace again until it’s perfect.
4) Stitch the design - Start the embroidery. The sequence used here stitches “CRAZY,” then the chicken graphic, then “CHICKEN” and “LADY” (leopard print). Monitor for snags or thread breaks.
Quick check A good canvas run shows smooth, even fills, letters with clean edges, and no puckering around the design.
Operation checklist (canvas)
- Template centered and pinned
- Stabilizer fully captured in the hoop
- Trace done more than once; final position confirmed
- Straps and seams kept clear
Pro tip If you’re regularly stitching totes, a hooping fixture or station can speed repeatable placement. hoop master embroidery hooping station
H2: Operation: Embroidering the Clear Plastic Tote 1) Plan the placement
- Use the tote’s interior fold lines (from the square bottom) as a visual guide to center the template without pins. Keep the zipper and seams away from the sewing field.
2) Tape stabilizer to the hoop - Cut mesh water-soluble stabilizer to cover the hoop area and tape it to the hoop frame before inserting into the bag. This small step keeps the mesh flat and prevents it from curling into the sewing field.
3) Hoop the tote - Insert the hooped stabilizer into the clear tote. The 8x9 hoop should fit snugly; clamp the bag and stabilizer together. Check tightness and that nothing shifted.
4) Mount, trace, and stitch - Mount the hooped tote; run a trace to confirm placement; nudge if needed and trace again. Start the embroidery. The same color order and textures used on canvas work here as well.
Watch out Plastic can tear from repeated needle penetrations if the design is too dense. Choose designs and settings that don’t over-perforate.
Quick check Expect crisp edges with no radiating cracks around needle holes. If perforation lines appear, stop and reevaluate density or support.
Operation checklist (clear)
- No pins used
- Water-soluble mesh taped to hoop
- Trace validated; bag body supported and flat
- Zipper/straps fully out of the path
Pro tip A snug magnetic hoop greatly reduces slippage on slick materials. 8x9 mighty hoop
H2: Quality Checks: Verify Before, During, and After Before stitching
- Canvas: Stabilizer fully captured? Template centered by measurement?
- Clear: Mesh taped, flat, and fully spanning the hoop? No creases?
During stitching
- Trace perimeter clears the hoop edges and hardware.
- Straps/loose layers remain clear of the needle and presser foot. Pause if anything drifts.
After stitching
- Edges should be clean with no puckering (canvas) and no tearing or spiral cracks (clear). Color transitions should be smooth and aligned.
Quick check If you traced multiple times and confirmed hoop clearance, the sew-out should land exactly where intended.
Pro tip If you frequently embroider bags, consider a dedicated magnetic frame set for reliable clamping across product types. magnetic hoops
H2: Results & Handoff: Cleaning, Trimming, and Care Canvas finishing - Unhoop and admire the placement. Trim the cutaway on the back close to the stitching without cutting the bag.
Clear finishing - Unhoop the tote. Trim the water-soluble mesh close to the design so only a narrow border remains. Rinse under running water until the stabilizer dissolves. Turn the bag inside out and trim tails with embroidery scissors. Use a lint roller inside the bag to find and remove stray threads.
Final comparison - Both totes showcase the same design with different hand-feel and look. Canvas emphasizes texture and saturation; clear plastic emphasizes the crispness of each element and the floating effect of the design.
Pro tip A compact magnetic frame kit can expand your bag lineup—totes, backpacks, and even shoes benefit from strong clamping. ricoma mighty hoop starter kit
H2: Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom: Design off-center
- Likely cause: Rushed placement or single trace pass.
- Fix: Re-hoop if needed and run multiple traces. Use the printed template as the truth source.
Symptom: Puckering on canvas
- Likely cause: Stabilizer slipped or wasn’t fully captured.
- Fix: Re-hoop with a larger piece of cutaway. Ensure fabric and stabilizer are taut in the hoop.
Symptom: Clear plastic shows perforation/tearing
- Likely cause: Design too dense or too many perforations in the same line.
- Fix: Choose a lighter-density design, or simplify fills and heavy outlines. Consider slightly larger stitch lengths or more open fills in your chosen file. Use thick mesh water-soluble for support and avoid re-stitching the same path.
Symptom: Stabilizer collapsed inward on clear tote while hooping
- Likely cause: Unsupported mesh shifting during insertion.
- Fix: Tape mesh to the hoop before inserting into the bag. Re-seat and confirm flatness.
Symptom: Straps or seams caught during sew-out
- Likely cause: Insufficient staging of the bag around the sewing field.
- Fix: Pause, lift, and reposition. Use clips or manual support to keep excess out of the field.
Quick tests
- Do a trace with the presser foot down to check true proximity to the hoop.
- Test-stitch a small motif on scrap of similar material to evaluate density and hole formation before committing.
Pro tip A sturdy magnetic frame and deliberate tracing reduce most bag-related issues. magnetic hoop embroidery
H2: From the comments
- Needle size: The creator later recalled using about a 75/11 for this project.
- Digitizing: The file was purchased (not custom-digitized) and worked on both canvas and clear.
- Plastic durability: The creator reported the clear tote has held up well with regular use.
- Hoops: The 8x9 magnetic hoop came from hoopmaster.com.
Looking to adapt this method to your setup?
- The core process—template placement, careful hooping, multi-run tracing—is universal across most multi-needle machines and magnetic hoops. ricoma em 1010 embroidery machine
Pro tip If you mix machines and accessories, a versatile magnetic system helps, and many brands have compatible options. mighty hoops for brother
Bonus idea If you regularly work on thick or awkward items, a placement fixture can speed alignment for repeat jobs. hooping station for embroidery
