PE Design 10 Pumpkin Mug Rug (5x7 Hoop): The Clean “Remove Overlap” Knockout + Appliqué Workflow That Actually Stitches Out

Mastering the ITH Pumpkin Mug Rug in PE Design 10: The "Zero-Frustration" Guide

If you have ever stared at a digital stipple background and thought, "How do I cut a clean window in this without the software fighting me?", you are in the right place.

This guide is based on Sue’s PE Design 10 tutorial for building a pumpkin-themed mug rug from scratch in a 5x7 hoop. However, we are going to go deeper than just "click here, click there." Drawing on decades of embroidery experience, I will add the "Old Hand" checkpoints—the sensory details and safety rails—that prevent the two biggest heartbreaks in In-The-Hoop (ITH) projects:

1. A file that looks perfect on screen but stitches out with gaps, bullet-proof density, or weird overlaps.
2. A hooping process that turns a fun afternoon project into a wrist-and-time sink.

1. Calm the Panic: Your File Is Fixable (Even When It Feels Like It Isn’t)

Many beginners love this style of tutorial because it is empowering—simple shapes turn into a finished product. But I hear the frustration loud and clear: "Remove Overlap won't work," or "My pumpkin looks flat." These are not signs you are bad at digitizing; they are normal speed bumps in understanding the logic of the software.

Two Mindset Anchors Before You Touch a Tool

• Digitize at the final size: Never plan to "resize later." Stitch properties (density, pitch) do not always scale linearly. If you want a 5x7 rug, build it at 5x7.
• Nature isn't perfect: Your pumpkin curves do not need to be mathematically flawless. In fact, slight irregularities make the finished embroidery look more organic and high-end.

The "Thick Fabric" Reality Check Mug rugs involve layers: stabilizer, batting, base fabric, appliqué fabric, and backing. Squeezing this sandwich into a standard plastic ring requires significant hand strength and often leaves "hoop burn" rings. If hooping feels like the hardest part of your ITH projects, it is worth knowing that upgrade paths like magnetic embroidery hoops exist. These use magnetic force rather than friction to hold thick layers, speeding up the process and eliminating those dreaded fabric crushes.

2. The "Hidden" Prep: Layer Logic & Sensor Check

This is the digitizing phase, but your decisions must be based on the physical reality of the stitch-out. You aren't just drawing lines; you are commanding a robot.

The Layer Logic (The Blueprint)

1. Placement Line: Shows you where to lay the batting and base fabric.
2. Tackdown Line: Secures the batting/fabric so it doesn't shift.
3. Background Stipple: Quilts the base texture (must be knocked out where the design goes).
4. Appliqué Frame: Position → Tackdown → Satin Cover.
5. Pumpkin & Vines: The decorative focal point.
6. Final Seam: Closes the envelope (no hand sewing required).

Prep Checklist (Do this before drawing)

• Hoop Setting: Verify Design Page is set to 5" x 7" (130x180mm).
• Unit Check: Confirm if you are working in mm or inches. (0.15 inches is a quilting stitch; 0.15 mm is a thread break waiting to happen).
• Stop Plan: Do you know how your machine recognizes stops? Usually, you must assign a different color to force a stop (e.g., color 1 for placement, color 2 for tackdown).

Warning: Digitizing is "safe," but the stitch-out is industrial. ITH projects require you to place hands near the needle to smooth fabric or trim appliqué. Never reach under the needle bar while the machine is active. Keep fingers at the hoop's outer edge.

3. Lock In the Base: The Foundation Rectangle

Sue starts with the simplest foundation: a rectangle that defines the mug rug's boundaries.

Action Steps (PE Design 10)

1. Open your 5x7 hoop page.
2. Select Shapes > Rectangle.
3. Set Outline to Running Stitch (Sewing Attributes).
4. Draw a rectangle approx. 6 x 4 inches.
5. Crucial Step: Use Arrange > Move to Center.

Sensory Check: Visually confirm there is clear whitespace between your rectangle and the red safety line of the hoop. If it touches the red line, your foot will hit the frame.

Why Centering Matters: If you are using a standard brother 5x7 hoop, the mechanism relies on precise centering to ensure the design doesn't drift into the "danger zone" near the plastic edge, where fabric tension is often loosest.

4. The "Quilted" Look: Stipple Fill & Density Control

Now we build the quilting texture. This involves duplicating your base rectangle and converting it.

Step-by-Step Construction

1. Duplicate the rectangle twice.
2. Object 1 (Placement): Color A.
3. Object 2 (Tackdown): Color B.
4. Object 3 (Background): Color C. Right-click > Sewing Attributes.
5. Change Fill Type to Stipple Stitch (Meandering).
6. Set Line Sew (Outline) to Not Sewn.

The "Sweet Spot" Density Analysis

Sue uses a Run Pitch of 0.08 inch (~2mm) and Spacing of 0.15 inch.

• Expert Note: A 2mm pitch is very short. It looks crisp but takes longer to stitch and can stiffen the batting.
• Suggestion: For a softer, loftier quilt feel, try a Run Pitch of 0.10 - 0.12 inch.
• Visual Check: Look at the screen. If the stipple lines look like a solid black mass, your spacing is too tight. You want to see "islands" of white space.

5. The "Remove Overlap" Trick (The Sanity Saver)

This is the heart of the tutorial and the source of most user error. The goal is to cut a "cookie hole" in the stipple so the pumpkin sits on flat fabric, not on top of bumpy quilting.

The Exact Workflow

1. Create a Solid Fill Shape (the cookie cutter) where the center design goes.
2. Place it on top of the stipple object.
3. Selection Dance: Left-click the Stipple Object first. Then, hold Ctrl and Left-click the Cutter Shape. Both must be highlighted.
4. Navigate to Home > Modify Overlap > Remove Overlap.
5. Delete the cutter shape (unless you are using it for the appliqué background).

Visual Success Metric: When you delete the cutter, you should see a clean white void in the stipple pattern.

6. When "Remove Overlap" Fails: The Diagnostician's Guide

If you clicked the button and nothing happened, or the wrong thing disappeared, do not panic. Use this logic tree.

Symptom → Diagnosis → Fix

• Production Tip: If you frequently struggle with alignment issues during the physical stitch-out (e.g., the hole is cut correctly, but your hoop shifted so the design misses the hole), software won't fix this. This is a hardware issue. A hooping station for embroidery creates a repeatable physical registration point, ensuring your fabric lands in the exact same spot for every single mug rug.

7. Fast Appliqué: The "Applique Wizard" Shortcut

Instead of manually creating three steps (Placement, Tackdown, Satin), let the software work for you.

Wizard Settings

1. Select your center shape.
2. Click Applique Wizard.
3. Input Settings:
   • Applique Material: No (unless printing a template).
   • Position Line: Yes.
   • Tackdown Line: Yes.
   • Covering Stitch: Yes (Satin).
   • Output: Replace (swaps your basic shape for the 3-step combo).

Sensory Check: On your layer list, you should see three distinct events replace the single shape.

8. Manual Punching: Drawing the Pumpkin

Sue uses the Manual Punch tool to trace a pumpkin template. This gives you control that "Auto-Digitize" never will.

The Rhythm of the Tools

• Left Click: Places a point.
• Z Key: Toggles to straight lines (sharp corners).
• X Key: Toggles to curved lines (Bezier curves).
• The Overlap Rule: When drawing the pumpkin "ribs" (segments), adjacent segments must overlap slightly (approx 1-2mm).
  • Why? As stitches pull in, gaps form. Overlap acts as insurance against the white fabric showing through.

Outcome: A pumpkin made of separate segments, not one flat blob. This allows for the "Pro Move" below.

9. The "3D" Effect: Stitch Angles

To make the pumpkin look round and organic, change the Stitch Angle (Direction) for each segment.

• Left segment: Angle at 135°.
• Center segment: Angle at 90° (Vertical).
• Right segment: Angle at 45°.

Physics of Thread: Thread is shiny (rayon/poly). By changing the angle, you change how light hits it. This creates "Chatoyancy" (cat's eye effect), making the pumpkin look dimensional without adding foam or padding.

• Optimization Tip: If you are using a single-needle machine, changing thread colors for dimension is tedious. Varying angles allows you to use one orange thread but still get a multi-tonal look. If the constant re-hooping and color changing is taking a toll on your wrists, a magnetic hoop for brother reduces the physical strain of clamping and unclamping between projects.

10. Vines & Envelope Closure: The Final Touches

Sue draws vines using the Open Curve tool and sets them to Triple Stitch (often called Bean Stitch).

• Triple Stitch Logic: A single run stitch gets lost in the pile of the fabric (batting). A triple stitch (forward-back-forward) stands up proud and mimics hand embroidery.
• Layering: Ensure the vines are ordered after the pumpkin if you want them on top, or before if you want them behind.

The Final Envelope Seam: Duplicate your very first placement rectangle, move it to the end of the list, and set it to Triple Stitch. This ensures strength when you turn the mug rug inside out.

11. Setup Checklist: The "Pre-Flight" Safety Check

Before you save to USB, pause. Run this audit to save yourself wasted fabric.

• Stop Commands: Are the placement, tackdown, stipple, and appliqué steps all different colors? (If they are all "Black," the machine will sew them continuously without letting you place fabric).
• Start/End Points: Do jumps cross the center window? (Move start/end points to the edges to avoid trimming threads inside the design).
• Density Check: Is the pumpkin fill standard density (~4.5 lines/mm or 0.4mm spacing)?
• Sequence: Placement -> Tackdown -> Stipple -> Window Appliqué -> Decor -> Seam.

Consistency Tip: If you plan to sell these, consistent placement is key. Professional shops often use a hoop master embroidery hooping station to guarantee that the placement stitch lands 100% parallel to the grain of the fabric every time.

12. Decision Tree: Fabric & Stabilizer Strategy

The video shows the software, but the physical materials determine success. Use this tree to choose your "sandwich."

Scenario A: Standard Mug Rug (Quilting Cotton + Low Loft Batting)

• Hooping: Hoop a layer of mesh stabilizer (soft) or tearaway. Float the batting/fabric.
• Result: Soft, flexible feel.

Scenario B: Dense Stippling / High Stitch Count

• Hooping: Hoop Medium Cutaway stabilizer.
• Result: Stiff, but zero puckering. The stipple won't distort the rectangle.

Hidden Consumable: 505 Temporary Spray Adhesive or Medical Paper Tape. You absolutely need this to hold the batting down before the tackdown stitch runs.

If you struggle to hoop thick layers like batting + Cutaway + cotton, magnetic hoops for embroidery machines are the industry standard solution. They clamp vertically, meaning the thickness of your batting doesn't distort the inner ring or cause "pop-outs."

13. Operation Checklist: The Physical Workflow

You are at the machine. Here is how to execute the file safely.

1. Placement: Run line 1 on stabilizer. Spray batting/fabric, place over line.
2. Tackdown: Run line 2. Check: Is the fabric smooth? bubbling now = pleats later.
3. Stipple: Watch the machine. If fabric starts "snowplowing" (pushing a wave), stop and tape it down.
4. Appliqué: Run Position. Place Fabric. Run Tackdown.
5. The Trim: Remove hoop (do not un-hoop). Use Duckbill Scissors to trim close to stitches.
6. Decoration: Run pumpkin/vines.
7. Closure: Place backing fabric Right Sides Together (RST) on top. Tape corners securely. Run final seam.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. If you upgrade to magnetic frames, be aware they are powerful industrial tools. They can pinch fingers severely. Never place them near pacemakers or magnetically sensitive electronics.

If you own a Brother machine, the specific brother 5x7 magnetic hoop is often calibrated to clear the needle bar height—ensure you buy one compatible with your specific model to avoid collision.

14. The Upgrade Path: From Hobby to Production

Creating one pumpkin mug rug is a craft project. Creating fifty for a fall craft fair is a manufacturing process.

Here is how to think about your tool upgrades based on your pain points:

• Pain Point: Wrist Fatigue & Hoop Burn.
  • Solution: Magnetic Hooping Station or Frames. The ROI here is physical health and fabric savings (less waste from hoop marks).
• Pain Point: Trimming Time & Thread Breaks.
  • Solution: High-quality appliqué scissors and upgrading to polyester thread (stronger than rayon).
• Pain Point: Speed & Volume.
  • Solution: If you are constantly changing thread colors on a single-needle machine, you are losing 50% of your time to setup. SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machines allow you to set the entire palette (Orange, Green, Brown, Black) once and let the machine run the entire decorative sequence without interruption.

This pumpkin project is the perfect gateway. Master the digitizing logic in PE Design 10, perfect your stabilization "sandwich," and upgrade your tools only when the volume demands it. Happy stitching!

FAQ

• Q: In Brother PE Design 10, why does “Modify Overlap > Remove Overlap” do nothing when trying to cut a clean window in a stipple background?
  A: The most common cause is the selection order—select the stipple object first, then the cutter shape.
  • Select: Left-click the stipple (background) object first, then Ctrl+click the cutter fill shape so both highlight.
  • Click: Home > Modify Overlap > Remove Overlap, then delete the cutter shape.
  • Success check: After deleting the cutter, a clean white void appears in the stipple area (not partially stitched lines).
  • If it still fails: Confirm the cutter is a closed Fill shape (not just an outline) and that both items are valid stitch objects (not unconverted imports).
• Q: In Brother PE Design 10, why is “Modify Overlap > Remove Overlap” greyed out when working on a stipple stitch background?
  A: “Remove Overlap” is usually disabled because at least one selected item is not recognized as a stitch object.
  • Verify: Convert any imported artwork/objects into stitch data or a proper fill object before attempting overlap removal.
  • Re-select: Click the stipple stitch object, then Ctrl+click the cutter fill shape (both must highlight).
  • Success check: The “Remove Overlap” command becomes clickable and creates a visible cut-out area in the stipple.
  • If it still fails: Rebuild the cutter as a simple closed shape with Fill, then try the selection steps again.
• Q: In Brother PE Design 10 for a 5x7 (130x180mm) hoop, how can centering prevent the embroidery foot from hitting the hoop frame on an ITH mug rug rectangle?
  A: Centering the foundation rectangle reduces the risk of stitching into the hoop’s danger zone near the red boundary line.
  • Set: Confirm the Design Page is 5" x 7" (130x180mm) before drawing.
  • Center: Use Arrange > Move to Center after drawing the rectangle.
  • Success check: There is clear whitespace between the rectangle and the red safety line; nothing touches or crosses that boundary.
  • If it still fails: Shrink or reposition the rectangle until it clears the red line, then re-check before exporting.
• Q: In Brother PE Design 10 stipple stitching, how can inch vs mm unit settings cause thread breaks when entering values like 0.15?
  A: A value like 0.15 is safe in inches for spacing, but 0.15 mm is extremely tight and can drive excessive needle penetrations and breaks.
  • Confirm: Check whether PE Design 10 is using inches or millimeters before entering spacing/pitch values.
  • Re-enter: Only apply the intended values after verifying the unit (don’t “assume” the display).
  • Success check: The stipple preview shows visible white “islands” between lines instead of a solid black mass.
  • If it still fails: Loosen the stipple settings slightly and test-stitch on the same batting/stabilizer stack used for the mug rug.
• Q: On an ITH mug rug stitch-out, how can the placement and tackdown steps be forced to stop on an embroidery machine that follows color-change commands?
  A: Assign different thread colors to each step so the machine pauses at the right moments for fabric placement and trimming.
  • Assign: Set placement line to Color 1, tackdown line to Color 2, stipple to Color 3, and appliqué steps to additional colors as needed.
  • Check: Review the color/event list to confirm separate events exist (not all “Black”).
  • Success check: The machine stops after the placement line so batting/fabric can be positioned before tackdown starts.
  • If it still fails: Reorder or re-color the objects so the sequence is placement → tackdown → stipple → appliqué → decor → final seam.
• Q: During ITH mug rug stippling at the embroidery machine, what should be done when the fabric starts “snowplowing” (pushing a wave) under the needle?
  A: Stop immediately and secure the fabric so the wave does not stitch into permanent pleats.
  • Stop: Pause the machine as soon as the fabric begins to push or ripple.
  • Secure: Tape the fabric down smoothly at the edges before continuing.
  • Success check: The fabric lies flat with no bubbling before the next stitches land; the stipple runs without forming ridges.
  • If it still fails: Re-evaluate the stabilizer/batting “sandwich” choice and how firmly the layers are held before tackdown.
• Q: For ITH mug rug layering, when is 505 temporary spray adhesive or medical paper tape necessary for holding batting before the tackdown stitch?
  A: Use temporary hold products whenever batting or fabric is floated so it cannot shift before the tackdown line secures it.
  • Apply: Lightly secure batting to the stabilizer before running the tackdown step.
  • Smooth: Remove bubbles and wrinkles before stitching (bubbling now becomes pleats later).
  • Success check: After tackdown, the batting/fabric is locked flat with no drift relative to the placement outline.
  • If it still fails: Increase securing points with tape at edges/corners and confirm the first tackdown line is stitched before any dense quilting.
• Q: For thick ITH mug rug “sandwich” hooping (stabilizer + batting + fabrics), when should a user move from technique optimization to magnetic embroidery hoops or a multi-needle machine?
  A: Use a staged approach: fix technique first, upgrade to magnetic hoops for hooping pain/hoop burn, and consider a multi-needle machine when color changes and volume become the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Float layers and secure batting with spray/tape; stop if snowplowing starts; keep placement/tackdown as separate color stops.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Switch to magnetic hoops/frames when thick layers cause hoop burn, pop-outs, or wrist fatigue from clamping standard hoops.
  • Level 3 (Production): Move to a multi-needle machine when repeated color changes and throughput limits make batches (e.g., dozens of mug rugs) inefficient.
  • Success check: Hooping becomes repeatable without fabric crush marks, and stitch-outs maintain alignment between the cut-out window, appliqué, and final seam.
  • If it still fails: Add a hooping station for consistent registration and verify compatibility/clearance before running any magnetic frame at speed.