Run Sequins, Loose Beads, and Cording on a Yunfu Single-Head Machine (Without Jams, Misplacement, or Wasted Tape)

Mixed-media embroidery is where a “normal” job turns into a premium job—sequins that catch light, beads that add texture, and cording that gives a raised, luxury outline. It’s also where operators lose the most time: misplacement, tape jams, bead starvation, and cord not feeding cleanly.

However, mixed media is not "magic"; it is simply mechanics. Understanding the physical feedback loop between your machine and your materials is the difference between a high-margin order and a pile of ruined garments.

This article rebuilds the exact workflow shown in the Yunfu single-head commercial machine tutorial (400×600 mm working area, 12 needles, Dahao A15 Plus control), then adds the shop-floor habits that keep these attachments profitable instead of stressful.

Meet the Yunfu Single Head Embroidery Machine Attachments—So You Don’t Panic Mid-Run

The video machine is a Yunfu single-head unit with a 400 × 600 mm working area and 12 needles, assembled with three special devices: a Twin Sequin device, a Loose Bead device, and an Easy Cording device.

Here’s the mindset I want you to adopt before you touch the start button: special devices are not “hard,” they’re just less forgiving. If anything is slightly off—tape not seated, beads running low, cord not in the channel—you’ll see it immediately in the stitch-out.

What the video confirms (and what matters in production):

• Flat embroidery runs first on the mixed design, then the machine switches to the sequin/bead mechanism.
• The sequin/bead portion is assigned to Needle 12 in the Dahao color-change settings.
• The cording device is physically mounted on Needle 1, so the cording design must be assigned to Needle 1.

If you’re building a small commercial workflow around a single head embroidery machine, these “needle-to-device” rules are the difference between smooth output and constant re-threading. Think of your machine not just as a printer, but as a sequence of physical tools. Needles 2 through 11 are for thread; Needle 1 and 12 are your "Heavy Artillery."

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Thread Sequins and Beads (Consumables, Fit, and Tension Reality)

Before the video starts threading, it quietly assumes something: your fabric is hooped correctly and stabilized well enough to survive the extra drag and vibration of special devices.

Mixed-media jobs add mechanical pull in ways flat embroidery doesn’t:

• Sequin tape has feed resistance.
• Beads add intermittent impact and weight.
• Cording adds continuous drag through guides and a presser-foot loop.

That means hooping and stabilization are not optional details—they’re the foundation.

Fabric + backing baseline (what to check):

• The video uses white cotton fabric with backing material.
• In general, cotton is forgiving, but sequins and cording still amplify puckering if the hoop tension is uneven.

Hooping physics in one sentence: if the fabric can shift even 1–2 mm under device load, your sequins won’t land cleanly and your cord zig-zag will “walk” off center. You want the fabric to sound like a drum when tapped—a dull thud means it's loose; a crisp tap means it's ready.

Hidden Consumables List (Don't start without these):

• Precision Tweezers: Essential for guiding sequin tape through the narrow feed slot.
• 75/11 Sharp Needles: Ballpoints can deflect off sequin material; sharps pierce cleaner.
• Temporary Spray Adhesive or Iron-on Fusible: Vital for cording to prevent the fabric from rippling under the presser foot drag.
  

Prep Checklist (do this before loading any tape, beads, or cord)

• Confirm the correct hoop/frame is available for the design size (the mixed design shown is 195.5 × 159.5).
• Confirm backing/stabilizer is already attached and covers the full stitch field. Tactile Check: Pull on the backing; if it stretches, add a layer of Cutaway.
• Confirm scissors are within reach (you will cut sequin tape and trim cord at the end).
• Confirm the sequin tape and beads match the device size (the comments specify 3 mm and 5 mm sequins, and 2.5 mm loose beads).
• Confirm the cording spool is mounted and the cord can unwind smoothly without snagging.
• Confirm the device wheels/levers move freely by hand before you feed anything through.
• Visual Check: Look at the bobbin case area. Is it clear of lint? Special devices create more debris than standard stitching.

Warning: Keep fingers, loose sleeves, and tools away from the needle area and moving levers when the machine is powered and in working condition; special-device mechanisms can pinch, and trimming near a needle bar is a fast way to get cut.

Thread the Twin Sequin Device the Way the Mechanism Wants (Not the Way Your Hands Want)

The video’s sequin threading is simple—but only if you respect the feed path. Sequin devices work on precise friction. If the tape isn't seated perfectly in the guides, the feed mechanism (the "claw") will slip, and you will get a half-sequin or a miss.

What you do in the video:

1. Insert the start of the sequin tape into the top gap of the device.
2. Manually actuate the feed lever (referred to as the “clock”) to advance the tape through the mechanism.
3. Keep feeding until the tape reaches the needle area—literally right under where the needle will strike.
4. Cut the excess tape at the front cutter (usually a small manual blade or scissor motion).
5. After threading, lock the two device wheels well.
   
   
   

Two expert notes that prevent 80% of sequin headaches

• Don’t fight the tape. If you feel resistance while turning the lever, stop and re-seat the tape in the gap. Forcing it can crease the tape, and a creased tape often becomes a jam later when the device engages at speed. You should feel a smooth, geared resistance—like winding a watch, not like dragging a heavy box.
• Locking the wheels is not “optional.” The video explicitly warns to lock the two device wheels after threading. In practice, an unlocked wheel can cause inconsistent feed length, which shows up as uneven sequin spacing or missed placements. Listen for a distinct click or feel the detent engage.

If your shop does a lot of sequin work, the slowest part is rarely stitching—it’s hooping and re-hooping when placement is off. That’s why many production teams build a dedicated hooping station so the fabric tension is repeatable from job to job, reducing the variable that causes most sequin misalignment.

Load the Loose Bead Device Fast—But Don’t Starve It Mid-Design

The bead device in the video is gravity-fed: you pour loose beads into the top hopper funnel, and the device separates and dispenses automatically.

What the video emphasizes: add enough beads; operation is automatic.

What experienced operators add:

• If you’re running a long bead section, top up the hopper before you start. Stopping mid-run to refill increases the chance you’ll bump the hoop or shift the fabric.
• Keep bead size consistent with the device. The comments specify 2.5 mm loose beads—mixing sizes often causes inconsistent feeding.
• The Shake Test: Before starting, verify the beads aren't clumped by static electricity. A quick tap on the hopper ensures flow. If you live in a dry climate, wiping the hopper with a dryer sheet can prevent static cling that suspends beads in the air.

Program the Dahao A15 Plus Color Change Screen So Needle 12 Actually Runs Sequins/Beads

This is where many operators “think” they set it correctly, then the machine stitches the sequin block with thread instead of engaging the device. The machine does not "know" you have a sequin device unless you tell it.

What the video does on the Dahao control:

1. Choose/import the design file.
2. Go to the color change settings.
3. Identify the color block that represents the sequin + bead portion (the video calls it the 10th color).
4. Assign that block to Needle 12.
5. Choose the hoop/frame type: Red Frame (Pattern E).
   
   
   

One sentence that saves time: if you’re using embroidery hoop machine workflows for repeat orders, write down your “device needle map” (e.g., Needle 12 = sequin/bead, Needle 1 = cording) and keep it taped near the control panel. This visual aid prevents the dreaded "Needle 12 assigned to Needle 5" error.

The Border-Check Habit on Dahao A15 That Prevents Placement Disasters (Centering + Trace)

The video shows the correct sequence before you stitch:

• Use arrow/jog keys to center the frame.
• Run “Check Border” to trace the design perimeter.
• Only then press Start.
  
  
  

This is not busywork. It’s your last safe moment to catch:

• A wrong origin point.
• A wrong frame selection.
• A hoop that’s mounted slightly rotated (classic tubular hoop issue).
• Collision Risk: Watch the presser foot bar—does it come dangerously close to the plastic hoop ring? If it’s within 5mm, adjust your position.

The video’s troubleshooting calls out a common issue: design placement mismatch caused by an incorrect starting origin. The fix is to jog again and re-run Check Border until it’s correct.

Setup Checklist (right before you press Start)

• Confirm the correct design file is selected on the Dahao screen.
• Confirm the sequin/bead color block is assigned to Needle 12.
• Confirm the correct frame is selected (Red Frame / Pattern E in the video).
• Jog the hoop to a proper position using arrow keys.
• Run Check Border and watch the full perimeter trace. Visual confirmation: Does the laser pointer/needle bar stay strictly on the fabric?
• If the trace is off, jog again and repeat Check Border until it matches your intended placement.

Run the Mixed Design in the Same Order as the Video: Flat First, Then Special Devices

The video makes an important operational point: flat embroidery is the first step on the mixed design.

That order is practical:

• Flat stitches create a stable base.
• Sequins and beads then sit on top where they belong.

The machine runs flat embroidery at a shown speed of 850 RPM (flat). For sequin/bead work, the video indicates a lower/variable speed.

Expert speed reality: Standard flat embroidery can run at 850-1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute), but special devices have mechanical limits. For beginners, I recommend a "Sweet Spot" of 500-600 SPM for sequins and beads.

• Why slow down? The mechanical arms of the sequin device need milliseconds to reset. If you run at 900 SPM, the mechanism physically cannot keep up, leading to "half-feeds" or skipped beads.

If you’re chasing consistent output on high-volume orders, embroidery hooping station setups help because they reduce the “human variability” that shows up as puckers once the device starts pulling.

Thread the Easy Cording Device on Needle 1 (Spool → Tension Guide → Presser Foot Loop → Channel)

After the sequin/bead demo, the video switches to cording. This requires a mental shift: Cording is about flow Control.

What the video does:

1. Mount the gold cord spool on the side spindle.
2. Thread the cord through the tension guide.
3. Feed it down through the specialized presser foot loop.
4. Ensure the cord sits in the cording device channel on Needle 1.
   
   
   

Two practical details that keep cord feeding smooth:

• Let the spool unwind cleanly. If the cord snags on the spool edge, the zig-zag stitch will start pulling the cord unevenly and you’ll see gaps. Position the spool so the cord pulls from the top, not the bottom, to reduce friction.
• Keep the cord seated in the channel. If it rides up, the needle may pierce the cord instead of couching it, which can cause fraying and sudden tension spikes.

Set the Dahao Color to Needle 1 for Cording—Because the Device Physically Mounted There

The video’s cording setup is straightforward:

1. Choose the cording-specific design (a Chinese character pattern).
2. Skip direction/scale changes if not needed.
3. In the color selection step, set the first color to Needle 1.
4. Put the machine into working condition.
5. Choose and confirm the frame; the machine moves automatically.
6. Adjust position, then Check Border.
7. Press Start.
   

The key line from the video is simple: the cording device is assembled on the first needle, so you choose the first color as Needle 1. Do not try to run Cording on Needle 5—the device isn't there!

Watch the Zig-Zag Couching Like a Hawk—It Tells You If Cord Tension Is Right

In the video, the machine stitches a zig-zag over the gold cord to form the pattern. At the end, the operator manually cuts the excess cord.

Here’s what you should be looking for during the first 10–20 seconds. Use your ears and eyes:

• Visual: The zig-zag should land evenly over the cord, not to one side. A "tunnelling" effect means the bobbin tension is too tight relative to the cord thickness.
• Auditory: Listen for a rhythmic thump-thump. If you hear a snap or a grind, stop immediately—the cord is likely snagged on the spool.
• Physics: The cord should lie flat without twisting.

Operation Checklist (during the first minute of stitching)

• Confirm the cord is feeding smoothly from the spool with no snagging.
• Confirm the cord stays inside the presser foot loop and device channel.
• Confirm the zig-zag stitch is centered over the cord.
• If placement looks off, stop early, re-seat the cord, and re-run Check Border before restarting.
• Keep scissors ready for clean trimming at the end of the design.

A Simple Stabilizer Decision Tree for Sequins, Beads, and Cording (So the Fabric Doesn’t Ripple)

The video shows cotton with backing, but in real shops you’ll run these devices on everything from polos to tote bags. Beginners often use "whatever is on the shelf," which creates disaster with heavy specialized stitching.

Use this decision tree as a practical starting point (and adjust based on your machine manual and test sew-outs):

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer Approach

1. If the fabric is stable woven (like the cotton shown):
   • Recommendation: Medium-weight Tearaway (2.5oz).
   • Why: The fabric structure supports the weight; the backing just adds stiffness.
2. If the fabric is stretchy knit (Polos/T-shirts):
   • Recommendation: Must be Cutaway (2.5oz or 3.0oz).
   • Why: Knits stretch. Without permanent support, the weight of the beads will cause the shirt to sag and the design to distort after the first wash.
3. If the fabric is thin or easily marked (Performance wear/Silk):
   • Recommendation: No-Show Mesh (Cutaway) + Magnetic Hoop.
   • Why: Traditional hoops leave "hoop burn" rings that are hard to remove.
4. If the fabric is thick or textured and you’re adding cord:
   • Recommendation: Tearaway + Solvy Topper.
   • Why: The topping prevents the cord from sinking into the fabric pile, keeping the premium look visible.

When hoop marks and slow clamping are your bottleneck, magnetic embroidery hoops can be a practical upgrade path—especially for operators who hoop all day and want consistent tension without over-stretching fabric.

Warning: Magnetic hoops are powerful; keep them away from pacemakers/implanted medical devices, and never let the rings snap together uncontrolled—pinch injuries are real, and magnets can damage phones, cards, and sensitive electronics.

Troubleshooting the Yunfu + Dahao Special Devices: Symptoms → Likely Cause → Fix

Below are the most common failure points that match what operators ask in comments and what the video demonstrates. Start with the "Low Cost" checks first.

1) Design placement mismatch after you thought it was centered

• Symptom: The trace or first stitches land off-position.
• Likely cause: Incorrect starting origin or the hoop wasn’t jogged to the intended start.
• Fix (video method): Use jog keys to adjust position and re-run Check Border until correct.

2) Sequins don’t advance or spacing becomes inconsistent

• Symptom: Sequins stop feeding, overlap, or leave gaps.
• Likely cause: Tape not seated correctly, or device wheels not locked after threading.
• Fix (video method): Re-thread by inserting tape into the gap, manually feed with the lever until it reaches the needle area, cut excess, then lock both device wheels well.

3) Beads stop appearing mid-block

• Symptom: Stitching continues but beads are missing.
• Likely cause: Hopper running low.
• Fix (video method): Add enough beads before operation; the device runs automatically once filled.

4) Cord isn’t being captured cleanly by the zig-zag

• Symptom: Zig-zag lands beside the cord or cord lifts out.
• Likely cause: Cord not seated in the presser foot loop or channel, or spool snagging.
• Fix (video method): Re-thread through the tension guide and presser foot loop, ensure it sits in the channel on Needle 1, then restart after a border check.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Saves Time: Hooping Speed, Repeatability, and Scaling Beyond One-Offs

Special devices are “premium,” but only if your workflow doesn’t collapse under setup time. If you spend 20 minutes hooping and troubleshooting for a 5-minute stitch run, you are losing money.

Here’s the practical scaling logic I use with commercial shops:

• Level 1 (Technique): If you’re doing occasional mixed-media pieces, standard tubular hoops work fine—just be disciplined with Check Border and device threading. Use the speed "sweet spot" of 600 SPM.
• Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): If you’re doing repeat orders (logos with sequins, boutique runs with cording outlines), your biggest hidden cost is hooping time and rework from inconsistent tension. That’s where magnetic frames for embroidery machine make sense. They allow you to float delicate fabrics without "hoop burn" and clamp faster, which is critical when running 50+ shirts a day.
• Level 3 (Capacity Upgrade): For higher throughput, pairing consistent hooping with a productivity-focused multi-needle platform (like SEWTECH multi-needle machines) is the next step. These machines are built to handle the torque and specialized attachments of high-volume mixed media without the downtime of smaller units.

If you’re currently using a traditional jig like a hoopmaster hooping station, you already understand the value of repeatable hooping; magnetic systems simply push that same goal further by reducing clamp force and operator fatigue.

Video-based specs referenced: Yunfu single-head 12-needle machine, 400×600 mm working area; mixed design size 195.5×159.5; Dahao needle assignment Needle 12 for sequin/bead block; Needle 1 for cording; flat speed shown 850 RPM; sequin/bead speed lower/variable; sequin sizes 3 mm and 5 mm; loose bead size 2.5 mm.

FAQ

• Q: What prep consumables should be on the table before running the Yunfu 12-needle single-head embroidery machine with Twin Sequin, Loose Bead, and Easy Cording attachments?
  A: Set up the small tools and correct consumables first, because special devices are less forgiving and mid-run stops cause most rework.
  • Gather: precision tweezers (for sequin tape), scissors (for tape/cord trimming), and 75/11 sharp needles (sharps pierce cleaner than ballpoints on sequin material).
  • Prep: apply temporary spray adhesive or use iron-on fusible when cording to reduce fabric rippling under presser-foot drag.
  • Inspect: clear lint around the bobbin case area before starting; special devices create more debris than standard stitching.
  • Success check: everything is within reach and the bobbin area is visibly clean before the machine enters working condition.
  • If it still fails: stop and re-check that sequin tape/beads/cord match the device sizes being used (e.g., 3 mm/5 mm sequins, 2.5 mm loose beads).
• Q: How can an operator tell if fabric hooping and stabilizer support are sufficient for sequins, beads, and cording on the Yunfu single-head commercial embroidery machine?
  A: Hoop tension must be “drum tight” and backing must resist stretch, because mixed-media devices add drag that can shift fabric 1–2 mm.
  • Tap: check the hooped fabric sound—aim for a crisp “tap,” not a dull “thud.”
  • Pull-test: tug the backing; if it stretches, add a Cutaway layer as a safer starting point.
  • Verify: ensure stabilizer covers the full stitch field before loading tape, beads, or cord.
  • Success check: the fabric does not shift when lightly pushed by hand, and the hoop feels evenly tensioned edge-to-edge.
  • If it still fails: switch to the stabilizer approach that matches the fabric type (e.g., Cutaway for knits; No-Show Mesh Cutaway for thin/mark-prone fabric), and follow the machine manual for final selection.
• Q: How do you prevent design placement mismatch on the Dahao A15 Plus control using “Check Border” on the Yunfu 400×600 mm single-head embroidery machine?
  A: Always jog to the intended position and run “Check Border” before Start, because wrong origin and wrong frame selection are the most common causes of off-center placement.
  • Select: confirm the correct design file and the correct frame choice (the video uses Red Frame / Pattern E).
  • Jog: use arrow keys to center/position the frame where the design should stitch.
  • Trace: run “Check Border” and watch the full perimeter before stitching.
  • Success check: the trace stays strictly on the fabric and clears the hoop ring; if the presser foot bar gets within about 5 mm of the hoop, reposition.
  • If it still fails: re-jog and repeat “Check Border” until the perimeter matches the intended placement.
• Q: Why does the Twin Sequin device on the Yunfu single-head embroidery machine verify but the sequin tape does not feed (or sequin spacing becomes inconsistent)?
  A: Reseat the sequin tape and lock the device wheels, because most feeding failures come from tape not seated in the teeth/gap or wheels left unlocked.
  • Unlock: release the two device wheels, then remove and reinsert the tape into the top gap following the feed path.
  • Advance: manually actuate the feed lever (“clock”) until the tape reaches the needle strike area, then cut excess at the front cutter.
  • Lock: re-lock both wheels firmly (do not skip this step).
  • Success check: turning the lever feels smooth and geared (like winding a watch), and the sequins advance evenly without slipping.
  • If it still fails: stop forcing the tape, inspect for creases in the tape, and re-thread again carefully—creased tape often becomes a jam later at speed.
• Q: What causes missing beads mid-block on the Yunfu Loose Bead gravity-fed device, and what is the fastest fix during production?
  A: Refill the hopper before it runs low, because bead “starvation” is the most common reason stitching continues but beads disappear.
  • Top up: fill the hopper with enough beads before starting any long bead section.
  • Keep consistent: use a consistent bead size that matches the device (the referenced setup uses 2.5 mm loose beads).
  • De-clump: tap the hopper to ensure beads flow freely; static can cause clumping in dry climates.
  • Success check: beads feed continuously without gaps once the bead block starts.
  • If it still fails: check for a blockage in the gravity drop path/tube and clear it with the machine powered safely off per the manual.
• Q: What Dahao A15 Plus needle assignments must be used on the Yunfu 12-needle machine so the sequin/bead mechanism and cording device actually engage?
  A: Assign the sequin/bead color block to Needle 12 and assign the cording design to Needle 1, because the devices are physically mounted on those needles.
  • Map: set the sequin + bead portion to Needle 12 in the color-change settings (the video identifies this as a specific color block).
  • Set: select Needle 1 for the cording design because the Easy Cording device is assembled on Needle 1.
  • Label: keep a written “device needle map” near the control panel to avoid accidental reassignment during repeat orders.
  • Success check: the machine engages the special mechanism during the correct design block instead of stitching that block with thread.
  • If it still fails: re-open the color-change screen and confirm the correct block was reassigned (not a different color block with a similar order number).
• Q: What are the key safety rules when threading and operating the Yunfu sequin, bead, and cording attachments near the needle bar and moving levers?
  A: Keep hands, sleeves, and tools away from the needle area and moving mechanisms whenever the machine is powered and in working condition, because pinch and cut injuries happen fast on special devices.
  • Power discipline: only adjust close to the needle bar/levers when the machine is stopped and safe to handle per shop procedure.
  • Control reach: use tweezers for guiding sequin tape instead of fingers near the needle strike area.
  • Position check: watch clearance during “Check Border” to avoid presser-foot/hoop collisions.
  • Success check: no part of the body crosses into the needle/levers zone while the machine can move.
  • If it still fails: stop the machine immediately and reset the workflow—rushing threading or trimming is when most accidents occur.
• Q: When mixed-media embroidery setup time stays high, what is a practical upgrade path from technique fixes to magnetic hoops to SEWTECH multi-needle machines?
  A: Fix repeatable setup first, then upgrade hooping consistency, then scale capacity—because most “lost profit” comes from re-hooping and troubleshooting, not stitch time.
  • Level 1 (Technique): standardize “Check Border,” slow special-device speed to a safer starting point around 500–600 SPM, and follow the device threading steps exactly.
  • Level 2 (Tool): use magnetic embroidery hoops/frames when hoop burn, slow clamping, or inconsistent tension is causing placement rework—especially on delicate fabrics.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): move to a productivity-focused platform such as SEWTECH multi-needle machines when order volume demands higher throughput with less downtime.
  • Success check: fewer restarts/re-hoops per batch and more consistent sequin/cord placement across repeats.
  • If it still fails: time the full job (hooping + setup + stitching) and identify whether the bottleneck is hooping consistency or device feeding—upgrade the bottleneck, not everything at once.