Make Hatch 3 Do the Heavy Lifting: Set Up a Two-Position Rotating Hoop (Janome Giga Hoop) Without Ruining Your Alignment

If you’ve ever stared at a beautiful, oversized embroidery design—perhaps a 10-inch jacket back or a long table runner—and looked down at your standard 5x7 hoop with a sinking feeling, you are not alone. That frustration is the "growth gap" every embroiderer faces.

The good news? You do not necessarily need to buy a $10,000 multi-needle machine today to bridge that gap. You need a smarter workflow using Multi-Position Hoops.

In this industry-standard guide, we will break down exactly how to use Hatch 3 software to set up a multi-position rotating hoop (using the Janome Giga Hoop as our hardware case study). We aren't just splitting a file; we are building a system that splits one large layout into two perfectly aligned rapid-fire hoopings—Position 1 and Position 2—by leveraging a precise 180° physical rotation.

Why the "Giga Hoop" Concept Still Matters (The Mechanics of Coverage)

Before we click a single button, you must understand the physics. A multi-position hoop is a hardware workaround for a physical limitation: your machine’s pantograph (the arm that moves) has a limited range of motion.

With a rotating hoop (like the Janome Giga Hoop), the frame is larger than the sewing field. You stitch the first half (Position 1), remove the hoop from the machine (without removing the fabric), rotate the hoop 180 degrees, and reattach it. The machine then stitches the second half (Position 2).

The Commercial Reality Check

If you are running a janome embroidery machine like the 350E, 400E, or similar single-needle setups, this is the most cost-effective method to achieve "pro-sized" results. However, it comes with a trade-off: risk. If your hoop tension varies by even 10%, or if your stabilizer is too weak, the two halves won't line up, leaving a visible gap or overlap.

Master the Interface: Reading Stitching Fields in Hatch 3

Hatch 3 provides a visual safety net. Before you thread your machine, you need to learn to "read" the digital canvas.

• Position 1 (Red Border): This is your primary stitching field. It stitches first.
• Position 2 (Blue Border): This is the secondary field. It stitches after the rotation.

The Golden Rule: The fabric stays locked in the hoop. You are not re-hooping the textile; you are re-docking the frame. This distinction is vital for maintaining grainline integrity.

Warning: Mechanical Safety Limits
When using oversized hoops, your machine arm travels to its absolute limits. Keep hands, scissors, and trimming tools at least 6 inches away from the needle assembly during the initial calibration and frame movement. A rotating hoop encourages users to lean in for "quick adjustments"—this is the #1 cause of needle strikes and fingertip injuries.

Phase 1: The "Hidden" Prep (The Physics of Stability)

The video tutorial correctly notes that fabric must be hooped and stabilized. However, for a split design to lineup within the industry tolerance of <0.5mm, "standard" hooping isn't enough. You need "production-grade" stability.

Here is the physics: When you rotate the hoop, gravity and drag forces pull the fabric in the opposite direction. If your fabric is loose, the second half of your design will "drift," creating a disconnect.

The "Secret" Consumables List

Don't start without these:

• Temporary Adhesive Spray (e.g., 505): Essential for laminating fabric to stabilizer to prevent micro-shifts.
• Water-Soluble Pen: Mark a crosshair on the fabric to visually verify alignment after rotation.
• Fresh Needle (Topstitch 75/11 or 90/14): A dull needle pushes fabric rather than piercing it, causing distortion.

Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight Inspection)

• Inspect Hardware: Run your finger along the inner hoop ring. Feel for nicks or debris that could prevent a tight grip.
• Check Connector: Ensure the hoop attachment mechanism (the plastic clip or metal slide) is click-firm. Any "wobble" here equals misalignment later.
• Fabric Bond: Spray your stabilizer lightly and smooth the fabric down. There should be zero bubbles.
• The "Drum" Test: Tap the hooped fabric. You should hear a dull thump (like a drum), but the grainline must remain straight, not warped.
• Machine Clearance: Ensure your table is clear. Giga hoops swing wide; clear away coffee mugs or scissor stashes!

Phase 2: Software Configuration in Hatch 3

This is where many users fail. If your specific hoop profile isn't pre-loaded in Hatch 3 (common for specific Baby Lock or older Janome models), you cannot just "guess." We must mathematically define the hoop.

Step-by-Step Profile Creation

1. Open Settings: Right-click the "Show Hoop" icon on the Hatch toolbar.
2. Initiate Creation: Click Create.
3. Naming Convention: Name it clearly (e.g., "Janome Giga - 2 Position").
4. Define Shape: Set Hoop Format to Rectangle.
5. Select Logic: Set Hoop Type to Two Position Rotating Hoop. Note: Do not start entering dimensions until this is selected!
6. Input Data: Enter the Stitching Area Dimensions.
   • Expert Note: Check your machine manual for the exact "Sewing Field" size (e.g., 230mm x 200mm). Do not measure the plastic frame; measure the travel limit.

If you are exploring multi hooping machine embroidery, precision here is non-negotiable. Being off by 2mm in the software leads to needle-breaking frame collisions in reality.

Setup Checklist (Software Validation)

• Hoop Type Verified: Ensure "Two Position Rotating Hoop" is selected (not "Multi-Hoop").
• Orientation Check: Does the diagram in Hatch match your physical hoop's connector position (horizontal vs. vertical)?
• Visual Confirmation: You see distinct Red and Blue boundary lines in the dialog box.
• Save Profile: Click Save so you never have to re-enter these numbers.

Phase 3: Exporting the Split Files

Once your design is placed within the red/blue boundaries, Hatch effectively calculates the split for you. But you must verify the result using the visual preview.

1. Navigate to Output Design.
2. Select Export Design.
3. Choose your machine format (JEF, PES, DST, etc.).
4. The "Ghost" Check: Hatch will display a preview.
   • Colored Area: The active stitch file.
   • Frosted White Area: The inactive file for the next position.

Expert Heuristic: If the split line (where red meets blue) cuts through a dense satin column or a tiny text lettering, STOP. Go back and move the design slightly. Never let a split line sever a critical detailed element if you can avoid it.

Phase 4: USB Workflow & Data Hygiene

Confusion over "which file is which" ruins garments. Adopt a strict naming convention.

1. Go to Machine > Transfer Settings.
2. Browse to your USB drive.
3. When exporting, Hatch creates two files.
   • Filenaming convention: DesignName_01 (Position 1) and DesignName_02 (Position 2).

Rule: Create a separate folder on your USB stick named "SPLIT_PROJECTS". Dump both files there. Never mix them with standard single-hoop files.

Critical Decision Tree: Fabric vs. Stabilizer

Because you are stitching across a gap, stability is 10x more important than in standard embroidery. Use this logic flow to make the right choice.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer Selection for Split Hoops

1. Is the fabric stretchy (Jersey, spandex, knit)?
   • YES: Use Cut-Away Stabilizer + Spray Adhesive.
     • Why: Knits relax after the hoop is rotated. Tear-away will fail, causing a gap in the design.
   • NO: Proceed to Step 2.
2. Is the fabric "shift-prone" or slippery (satin, rayon, silk)?
   • YES: Use Fusible Cut-Away or standard Cut-Away + Basting Box.
     • Why: Slippery fabrics slide under the foot pressure. You need a chemical bond (fusible) or mechanical bond (basting).
   • NO: Proceed to Step 3.
3. Is it a stable woven (denim, canvas, heavy cotton)?
   • YES: Heavyweight Tear-Away is acceptable, provided you hoop tightly.
     • Why: The fabric's own structure supports the stitch join.

The Hooping Reality: Handling Hoop Burn and Drift

You’ve likely heard terms like hooping for embroidery machine frustration. In split hooping, because the fabric stays in the frame longer and undergoes physical rotation, "hoop burn" (permanent creases) is a real risk.

• Mitigation: Do not leave the fabric hooped overnight. Hoop it, stitch Position 1, rotate immediately, stitch Position 2, and unhoop.
• Torque Check: When tightening the hoop screw, engage it until finger-tight, then pull the fabric taut (not stretched), then do one final turn (screw-driver assist optional but careful). Use the "User" test: Try to push the fabric adjacent to the inner ring with your thumb. If it ripples, it's too loose.

Troubleshooting: Why Good Splits Go Bad

The Solution for Production Pain: When to Upgrade Tools

If you find yourself dreading the setup process, or if your wrists ache from fighting standard screw-hoops, recognize that this is a hardware bottleneck, not a skill failure.

Traditional hoops rely on friction. If you are doing repetitive production runs, friction hoops are slow and inconsistent.

• Standard Upgrade: Many home users find relief in magnetic embroidery hoops. The magnetic force clamps directly down, reducing "hoop burn" and hand strain.
• Brand Specifics: If you own a premium machine, searching for magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines or Janome equivalents can transform your workflow from "fighting the frame" to "snap and stitch."

When to switch to Magnetic Hoops:

1. Volume: You are doing 10+ items of the same design.
2. Material: You are stitching thick towels or jackets that refuse to fit in plastic rings.
3. Health: You have arthritis or repetitive strain issues.

Warning: Magnet Safety
Magnetic embroidery hoops use industrial-grade neodymium magnets. They snap together with crushing force (>10kg). Keep fingers clear of the contact zone to avoid pinching. Never place hoops near pacemakers, insulin pumps, or magnetic storage media (credit cards/hard drives).

The Production Mindset: Consistency is King

Professional shops don't rely on luck; they rely on fixtures. While you might not yet need full hooping stations, you can simulate one:

1. Mark your worktable with tape to outline your hoop position.
2. Always align your garment using these tape marks before inserting the hoop.
3. Consider a dedicated hooping station for machine embroidery if you scale your business, as it guarantees the logo lands in the exact same spot on every shirt.

Operation Checklist (The Final "Go" Criteria)

Perform this checks immediately before pressing the green "Start" button:

• File Confirmation: Is "File_01" loaded for the first pass?
• Bobbin Check: Do you have enough bobbin thread to finish the entire section? (Running out mid-split is a nightmare).
• Clearance: Is the wall/table behind the machine clear for the hoop to swing 180°?
• Stitch Position 1: Complete the stitching.
• Stop & Rotate: Remove hoop. Rotate 180°. Reattach. Listen for the Click.
• Stitch Position 2: Load "File_02" and complete the design.

Final Thoughts: Expanding Your Canvas

Using Hatch 3's Multi-Position Hoop feature is about overcoming physical limits with software intelligence. The software handles the math; your job is to handle the physics. Keep your stabilization rock-solid, respect the rotation, and your small-field machine will deliver large-scale results that rival multi-needle giants.

FAQ

• Q: How do I prevent misalignment when using Hatch 3 with a Janome Giga Hoop two-position rotating hoop (Position 1 and Position 2)?
  A: Keep the fabric locked in the hoop and stabilize “production-tight” before rotating, because rotation drift is the #1 cause of a visible join line.
  • Spray-baste the fabric to the stabilizer with temporary adhesive spray before hooping to stop micro-shifts.
  • Mark a simple crosshair on the fabric with a water-soluble pen so alignment can be visually re-checked after the 180° rotation.
  • Rotate the hoop 180° and reattach firmly; do not re-hoop the fabric.
  • Success check: After re-docking, the fabric surface still looks smooth (no new bubbles) and the crosshair reference still sits where expected relative to the hoop.
  • If it still fails: Re-check hoop tightness and the hoop connector for wobble before stitching Position 2.
• Q: How do I know if hoop tension is correct for Hatch 3 split embroidery using a Janome Giga Hoop (to avoid gaps between Position 1 and Position 2)?
  A: Aim for firm, even tension (taut but not stretched) so the fabric will not “relax” differently after rotation.
  • Tap-test the hooped fabric and aim for a dull “thump,” not a loose ripple.
  • Tighten the hoop screw finger-tight, pull fabric taut (not stretched), then do one final small turn if needed.
  • Press near the inner ring with a thumb; adjust if the fabric ripples or slides.
  • Success check: The grainline stays straight (not warped) and the fabric does not shift when lightly pushed near the inner ring.
  • If it still fails: Upgrade stabilization (often cut-away + spray) and inspect the inner ring for nicks/debris that reduce grip.
• Q: What are the required pre-flight supplies before running a Hatch 3 two-position rotating hoop job on a Janome-style single-needle machine?
  A: Use adhesive, markings, and a fresh needle—these three items prevent most split-design “drift” and distortion problems.
  • Prepare temporary adhesive spray to laminate fabric to stabilizer before hooping.
  • Mark a crosshair with a water-soluble pen for a fast alignment verification after rotation.
  • Install a fresh needle (topstitch 75/11 or 90/14) to reduce fabric push/distortion.
  • Success check: Fabric is bonded with zero bubbles, and the needle penetrates cleanly without deflecting or pulling the fabric.
  • If it still fails: Inspect the hoop’s inner ring for debris and confirm the hoop attachment connector clicks in without play.
• Q: How do I create the correct Hatch 3 hoop profile for a two-position rotating hoop like the Janome Giga Hoop without causing frame collisions?
  A: Select “Two Position Rotating Hoop” first, then enter the stitching-area dimensions from the machine manual (not the plastic frame size).
  • Right-click “Show Hoop,” choose Create, and set Hoop Format to Rectangle.
  • Set Hoop Type to Two Position Rotating Hoop before typing any measurements.
  • Enter the stitching area dimensions according to the machine’s sewing field/travel limit in the manual.
  • Success check: Hatch shows distinct red (Position 1) and blue (Position 2) boundaries that match the physical hoop orientation/connector position.
  • If it still fails: Stop and re-verify the stitching-area numbers and orientation; incorrect values can lead to needle-breaking frame strikes.
• Q: How do I export and manage Hatch 3 split files so Position 1 and Position 2 do not get stitched in the wrong order on a USB drive?
  A: Export both files together and use a strict folder + naming rule so Position 1 is always stitched first.
  • Export via Output Design > Export Design and select the correct machine format (PES/JEF/DST, etc.).
  • Save both generated files into a dedicated USB folder (for example, a “split projects” folder) instead of mixing with normal designs.
  • Load the “_01” file for the first pass, then rotate the hoop 180°, then load the “_02” file for the second pass.
  • Success check: The machine stitches the first half, then after rotation the second file continues the layout without a visible step at the join.
  • If it still fails: Re-check the preview “ghost” area before export to confirm which half is active in each file.
• Q: How do I choose stabilizer for Hatch 3 split hoop embroidery so the two halves align after rotating the hoop 180°?
  A: Match stabilizer to fabric behavior—split hooping needs much more stability than standard single-hoop embroidery.
  • Use cut-away stabilizer + spray adhesive for stretchy knits (jersey/spandex) to prevent relaxation drift after rotation.
  • Use fusible cut-away or cut-away + a basting box for slippery fabrics (satin/rayon/silk) to prevent slide under foot pressure.
  • Use heavyweight tear-away only for stable wovens (denim/canvas/heavy cotton) when hooping is truly tight.
  • Success check: After Position 1 and rotation, the fabric has not shifted and the join line is not opening into a visible gap.
  • If it still fails: Move up one stability level (tear-away → cut-away, add spray/basting) before changing any software settings.
• Q: What safety precautions prevent needle strikes and hand injuries when running oversized two-position rotating hoops (Janome Giga Hoop style) on a single-needle machine?
  A: Keep clear during calibration and full-range arm travel—oversized hoops push the machine to its mechanical limits.
  • Keep hands, scissors, and trimming tools at least 6 inches away from the needle area during initial movement and frame travel.
  • Clear the table and rear/side space so the hoop can swing and rotate without hitting objects.
  • Stop the machine before any adjustment; do not “lean in” for quick fixes while the arm is moving.
  • Success check: The hoop completes its full travel without contacting tools, table items, or fingers, and there are no frame hits.
  • If it still fails: Re-check hoop profile dimensions and workspace clearance before restarting.