Print Embroidery Templates & Color Charts (Without Buying Digitizing Software): Tool Shed, Floriani Creative Express, and Palette 11 Done Right

If you have ever purchased an embroidery design, downloaded the zip file, opened it, and then felt that sinking feeling because you can’t print a placement template or a color chart, you are not alone. This is a common panic point for beginners who assume they must spend hundreds of dollars on digitizing software just to see what they are doing.

You don’t.

Embroidery is a game of precision, and "flying blind" without a paper template is the quickest way to ruin a garment. In this guide, I will walk you through the exact click-paths shown in the video for printing templates and color-stop sheets in Palette 11 / PE Design 11, plus two robust free options: DIME Embroidery Tool Shed and Floriani Creative Express.

Beyond the software clicks, I will add the "old hand" physical details—the sensory checks and workflow habits—that keep your placement accurate and your mind calm. We will cover how to bridge the gap between digital files and physical fabric, especially when dealing with tricky items like bags or knitwear.

Printed embroidery placement templates aren’t optional when you care about alignment (especially on shirts, bags, and gifts)

A printed template is your insurance policy. On-screen previews are useful for checking colors, but they deceive you about scale and physical location. They cannot show you how a design lands on a real 3D item—where seams, pockets, plackets, and stretch zones can pull your eye off-center.

Here is exactly why a printed template and color-stop sheet are non-negotiable in a professional workflow:

• Placement Confidence (The "Gut Check"): You can physically position the paper template on the garment, step back, and see if it "reads" right visually. Does it look centered to the eye, or just to the ruler? (Often, the eye is right).
• Fewer Re-hoops & "Hoop Burn": When placement is wrong, you usually discover it after the first 500 stitches. Then you are unpicking, re-stabilizing, and re-hooping. Repeatedly clamping creates "hoop burn"—those shiny, crushed fabric marks that are often permanent on delicate materials.
• Cleaner Thread Planning: A color-stop sheet helps you stage thread cones in order. There is a specific rhythm to professional embroidery; knowing that Stop #4 is a "Detail Black" and Stop #5 is a "Fill White" prevents errors.

If you are running a small shop (or aspire to), templates are a massive time-saver. The fastest operators aren’t the ones whose machines run at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM)—they are the ones who make faster setup decisions because they have a paper map.

The “Hidden” prep that makes template printing painless: file sanity, printer settings, and a placement mindset

Before you click ‘Print Preview’ in any software, you must perform a "Pre-Flight Check." 90% of printing frustrations—like templates scaling down or cutting off edges—happen because of printer default settings, not embroidery software bugs.

Prep Checklist (Do this before opening Print Preview)

• The "100%" Rule: Check your printer dialog settings. Ensure "Scaling" is set to None or 100%. Never select "Fit to Page," or your 4-inch design will print as a 3.8-inch design, ruining your alignment.
• The Visual Audit: Open the design in your viewer. Does it look complete? Are there stray stitches far outside the hoop area? (This often happens with converted files).
• Paper Logic: Load plain printer paper. Do not waste expensive transfer paper for templates.
• The Ruler Test: Grab a physical ruler. When the template prints, measure the "scale line" or the design width immediately to confirm it matches reality.
• Hidden Consumables: Have temporary spray adhesive or water-soluble marking pens ready. You will need these to fix the paper template to the fabric for visualization.

A veteran tip: Treat the paper template like a "mock hoop." Cut the paper roughly to the size of your hoop. It helps your brain visualize the physical constraints of the machine arm and needle bar.

Download DIME Embroidery Tool Shed (free) the same way Regina does—so you don’t accidentally grab the wrong version

Regina shows a straightforward path to the free base version of Tool Shed. It is critical to follow this path because software companies often push valid "Free Trials" of their paid software, which expire. You want the "Free Viewer" which lasts forever.

1. Go to shop.dzgns.com
2. Use the top navigation: Software → Embroidery Tool Shed
3. Open the product page and scroll until you see the download area
4. Confirm you are choosing the FREE version (Regina explicitly calls this out)

This tool is excellent when your only goal is to view designs, convert formats, and print templates—not digitize from scratch.

If you are building a workflow around DIME accessories, you will often find professionals pairing this kind of "viewer + template" setup with physical placement tools. For example, using a template allows you to visualize the center point, which is crucial when using a magnetic hooping station to lock your fabric in place without struggle. It reduces the distinct friction of "guessing" where the needle will land.

Download Floriani Creative Express (free) when you want a second viewer option (and a clean color-stop printout)

Regina also demonstrates downloading Floriani Creative Express from the Floriani/RNK website.

The key takeaway here is redundancy. Embroidery files (.PES, .DST, .JEF, .VP3) are complex data. Sometimes, a file that looks corrupted in one software opens perfectly in another. Having a second free viewer is your "Plan B."

Why I like Floriani for beginners: The color-stop printout is exceptionally clean and easy to read, which helps when you are staring at a rack of 50 thread colors trying to match a specific shade of "cornflower blue."

DIME Embroidery Tool Shed Print Preview: the one selection move that makes or breaks your template

This is the step that trips beginners—and Regina calls it out clearly. The software follows a strict logic: “If you didn’t select it, I won’t print it.”

What Regina does (exact workflow)

1. The Drag-Select: In Tool Shed, take your mouse and drag across and down so the entire design is highlighted with a selection box.
2. The Command: Go to File → Print Preview.
3. The Verification:
   • Page 1: The design template (Actual Size).
   • Page 2: The color chart / color stops.
4. The Action: Click Print to print both pages.

If you skip the selection step, Tool Shed typically opens Print Preview with a blank page.

Warning: needle Safety. Many operators print their templates, get excited, and rush back to the machine. Always keep fingers clear of the needle bar and presser foot when setting up. A moment of inattention while threading or checking alignment against a template is how preventable needle-through-finger injuries happen.

Setup Checklist (Tool Shed-specific)

• Action: Drag-select the entire design.
• Sensory Check: Did the design visual change (highlight/glow) on screen?
• Visual Logic: Does Print Preview show two distinct pages?
• Success Metric: You can clearly read the text and see the design outline on Page 1 before hitting Print.
  

Tool Shed “blank Print Preview” is almost always a selection problem—here’s the fast fix

Regina’s troubleshooting point is empirically correct for 99% of cases:

• Symptom: You see a stark white page in Print Preview.
• Likely Cause: No object was selected in the workspace.
• Quick Fix: Close preview. Drag your cursor across and down over the design to select it. Watch it highlight. Open File → Print Preview again.
• Prevention: Develop a "Select-then-Print" muscle memory.

This behavior feels "mysterious" or "buggy" to new users, but it is actually a feature—it allows digitizers to print only specific parts of a complex design. But for us printing templates, we want the whole thing.

Floriani Creative Express Print Preview: same idea, slightly different feel (and the color stops are easy to spot)

Regina’s Floriani workflow mirrors the concept: Highlight first, then print.

What Regina does (exact workflow)

1. In Floriani Creative Express, highlight your design in the workspace.
2. Go to File → Print Preview.
3. Regina points out the layout:
   • Page 1: The design template (spatial reference).
   • Page 2: The color stops (data reference).
4. Print from the preview.
5. Close.

Pro Workflow Tip: If you have helpers or are trying to be efficient, split these pages. Page 1 (The Template) goes to your hooping station/table. Page 2 (The Color Chart) gets taped to your machine or thread rack. This prevents you from running back and forth between the table and the machine.

Palette 11 / PE Design 11 Print Preview: the “Flower” system menu is the shortcut you’ll use forever

If you already own Palette 11 (or PE Design 11), Regina shows the exact menu path. This interface is classic Brother/Babylock architecture.

What Regina does (exact workflow)

1. Click the Flower icon (System Menu) in the top-left corner.
2. Choose Print Preview.
3. Inspect the design visuals.
4. Click Next Page to verify the color stops are listed.
5. Print.

Regina notes that PE Design is the exact same engine regarding this process. Whether you are on version 10 or 11, this "Flower Menu" is your command center.

Don’t just print the color chart—use it like a production plan (thread staging, stop order, and fewer surprises)

A color-stop sheet is not just a list of colors; it is a timeline of events.

Regina shows that the second page contains the specific color data. She also opens the Sewing Order panel to verify stops manually.

Here is how to read this data like an expert:

• Identify Trims: Look at the chart. Are there multiple jumps of the same color? That means trims.
• Stage Threads: Physically line up your thread cones in order before you press start. Even on a single-needle machine, this reduces the mental load of "what's next?"
• Predict Trouble: If you see a dense fill stitch followed immediately by a delicate outline in the chart, you know you need stable backing.

Material Note: If your color chart implies a high-density design (lots of stitches, many stops), this is your cue to check your embroidery thread quality. High-speed embroidery machines (800+ SPM) punish cheap thread. Using high-tenacity polyester thread ensures that your carefully planned color stops aren't interrupted by shreds and breaks.

The placement “physics” most beginners miss: paper templates prevent hoop drift and fabric distortion

Even though the video is software-focused, the reason templates matter is pure physics.

When you hoop fabric, you are applying tension. That tension changes the geometry of the fabric:

• Knits stretch horizontally (making a circle look like an oval).
• Plackets on shirts can twist off-grain.
• Thick seams can push a standard hoop ring loose, causing "pop-out."

A printed template allows you to mark your Crosshairs (Center Point) on the fabric while it is relaxed on the table. You then align the hoop to those marks.

If you find yourself struggling to keep the template alignment true while tightening the screw, this is a physical limitation of standard hoops. Many professionals switch to magnetic embroidery hoops because they clamp straight down. There is no "twist and tighten" motion to distort the fabric, meaning your printed template stays exactly where you placed it.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Magnetic frames are incredibly powerful. Keep them at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or implanted medical devices. Watch for "Pinch Hazards"—never place your fingers between the magnets when they snap together. They will pinch hard enough to cause blood blisters.

Decision tree: match fabric + project type to stabilizer and hooping approach (so your printed template actually matches the stitch-out)

Use this logic flow to ensure your physical setup supports the digital template you just printed.

Decision Tree (Fabric → Stabilizer → Hooping Strategy)

1. Is the fabric stable (Woven canvas, denim, twill)?
   • Yes: Use Tearaway (light density) or Medium Cutaway (high density). Standard hooping works well.
   • No (T-shirt knit, performance wear, stretchy fleece):
     • Stabilizer: Must use Cutaway. Tearaway will result in gaposis (outlines missing the fill).
     • Hooping: Do not pull the fabric "drum tight." It should be neutral.
2. Is the item un-hoopable or leaving marks (Velvet, thick bags, delicate silk)?
   • Yes (Hoop Burn Risk):
     • Strategy A: Float the item (hoop the stabilizer, stick the item on top with spray).
     • Strategy B: Use a magnetic frame to hold it firmly without crushing the fibers.
   • No: Proceed with standard hooping.
3. Is the design dense (over 20,000 stitches)?
   • Yes: Add a second layer of stabilizer or use a heavier weight (2.5oz - 3.0oz).
   • No: Standard backing is fine.

Hidden Consumable: Always have a new needle ready for dense projects. A burred needle will push fabric around, rendering your template alignment useless.

The “hooping table” workflow that saves real time: template on top, centerlines first, then clamp

Once you have printed Page 1 (The Template), here is the tactile workflow to execute perfect placement:

1. Mark References: Fold your garment to find the center, or measure from the shoulder seam. Mark with a water-soluble pen or chalk.
2. Paper Placement: align the crosshairs on your printed template with your fabric marks.
3. Secure: Tape the template corners with low-tack tape so it doesn't shift.
4. Insert Inner Ring: Place the inner hoop ring inside the garment.
5. Align Outer Ring: Check your template one last time.
6. Clamp: Press the outer ring down.
7. Remove: Remove the paper template before attaching the hoop to the machine.

If you are doing this repeatedly for team jerseys or uniforms, consistency is difficult. A dedicated machine embroidery hooping station solves the fatigue problem by holding the hoop for you, allowing you to use both hands to smooth the fabric and align the template.

Operation Checklist (After printing, before stitching)

• Alignment: Template crosshair aligns perfectly with fabric markings.
• Orientation: Is the top of the design actually at the neck of the shirt? (Classic error: stitching upside down).
• Removal: Did you remove the paper template? (Don't stitch through the paper!).
• Clearance: Check that the garment isn't bunched up under the hoop where the needle will hit it.
  

When free software is enough—and when it’s time to upgrade your tools for speed (without wasting money)

Regina’s core message is empowering: if your goal is simply to viewing and printing, free software is sufficient. You do not need to spend $1,000 on software just to print a PDF.

However, as you move from "hobbyist" to "side hustle," the bottlenecks change. The problem stops being "how to print" and becomes "how to hoop faster."

The Upgrade Logic for Growing Embroiderers:

• Level 1 (Hobby): Free Tool Shed + Standard Hoops. (Cost: $0). Great for learning.
• Level 2 (Efficiency): Magnetic Frames. If you are fighting with thick towels or slippery knits, an embroidery magnetic hoop removes the physical struggle. It turns a 2-minute hooping battle into a 10-second "snap."
• Level 3 (Production): Multi-Needle Machines. If you are printing color charts with 12 distinct stops, a single-needle machine requires you to sit there and change thread 12 times. A SEWTECH multi-needle machine automates this, allowing you to walk away while it works.

For users of specific machine brands, finding compatible tools is key. Experienced Brother users often look for a dime snap hoop or similar dime magnetic hoop for brother systems because they integrate with the existing unparalleled ease of use those machines offer, but add the speed of magnetic clamping.

Quick fixes for the most common “it won’t print” moments (and how to avoid them next time)

Even with the right software, printing fails. Here is your "Emergency Room" triage list:

Symptom → Likely Cause → Quick Fix

• Print Preview is Blank (Tool Shed) → Cause: Design not selected. → Fix: Drag-select the design box.
• Only Template Printed (No Color Chart) → Cause: Did not scroll to Page 2. → Fix: In preview, verify Page 2 exists, then ensure Printer Settings say "Print All Pages."
• Size is Wrong (Too Small) → Cause: Printer set to "Fit to Page." → Fix: Change printer setting to "Actual Size" or "Scale: 100%."
• Colors Don't Match → Cause: RGB Screen vs. CMYK Printer differences. → Fix: Trust the name of the color (e.g., "Deep Gold"), not the printout shade.
• Paper Jam → Cause: Using sticky stabilizer sheets in a laser printer (Melts!). → Fix: Only print templates on plain copy paper.

This list covers the vast majority of issues. If the software crashes, the old "Turn it off and on again" rule applies—restart the software to clear the memory cache.

The calm finish: print, verify sewing order, then stitch with fewer surprises

Regina closes by showing the purpose of the whole exercise: verify the design, understand the sewing order, and match your threads.

This is the "White Paper" standard for embroidery: Verification overrides Hope.

Don't hope it fits; print the template and see it fits. Don't hope you have the right colors; check the chart and stage them. By building this "Print → Verify → Hoop" routine, you remove the anxiety from the process.

And if you ever find that your preparation is perfect but your hooping speed is holding you back, that is the moment to look at workflow upgrades like dime hoops or standardized magnetic frames. They are not magic, but they provide the consistency that paper templates demand.

FAQ

• Q: Why does DIME Embroidery Tool Shed Print Preview show a blank white page when printing an embroidery placement template?
  A: In DIME Embroidery Tool Shed, a blank Print Preview is almost always because the design was not selected before previewing.
  • Action: Close Print Preview, then drag-select across and down so the entire design highlights.
  • Action: Go to File → Print Preview again and verify the pages.
  • Success check: The design outline appears on Page 1, and the color chart/color stops appear on Page 2.
  • If it still fails: Re-open the design file and repeat “Select-then-Print” before assuming the file is corrupted.
• Q: How do I print both the embroidery placement template and the color-stop chart in DIME Embroidery Tool Shed without missing Page 2?
  A: Use Print Preview and confirm there are two pages before pressing Print.
  • Action: Drag-select the entire design first, then open File → Print Preview.
  • Action: Click/scroll to Page 2 and confirm the color stops are listed.
  • Success check: You can clearly see two distinct preview pages (template on Page 1, color chart on Page 2).
  • If it still fails: Check the printer dialog for “Print All Pages” (not “Current Page”).
• Q: Why is my printed embroidery placement template the wrong size after printing from Palette 11 / PE Design 11 or a free viewer?
  A: The wrong-size template is usually caused by printer scaling—set printing to Actual Size/100% and never “Fit to Page.”
  • Action: Open the printer dialog and set Scaling to None or 100% (Actual Size).
  • Action: Print on plain copy paper first, then measure immediately.
  • Success check: The printed design width (or scale line) matches a physical ruler measurement.
  • If it still fails: Re-check the printer’s default settings (some drivers revert to “Fit to Page” automatically).
• Q: What pre-flight checklist prevents embroidery template printing problems like cut-off edges or incorrect scaling before I click Print Preview?
  A: Do a quick pre-flight check—most “printing problems” are printer settings or file issues, not the embroidery software.
  • Action: Verify the “100% Rule” in the printer settings (no scaling, no Fit to Page).
  • Action: Visually audit the design for stray stitches far outside the hoop area.
  • Action: Prepare simple consumables (temporary spray adhesive or water-soluble marking pen) to position the paper template on fabric.
  • Success check: The template prints fully on the page and measures correctly with a ruler.
  • If it still fails: Try opening the same design in a second viewer (for redundancy) and print again.
• Q: What is the safest way to use a printed embroidery placement template at the machine without risking a needle-through-finger injury?
  A: Slow down at the machine—keep hands clear of the needle bar and presser foot when checking placement and threading.
  • Action: Use the template at the hooping table to confirm placement, then remove the paper before attaching the hoop to the machine.
  • Action: Keep fingers out from under the presser foot area while aligning, threading, or doing final checks.
  • Success check: The paper template is removed before stitching and hands never enter the needle strike zone.
  • If it still fails: Stop the machine, re-check placement away from the needle area, then restart only when everything is clear.
• Q: What magnetic embroidery hoop safety rules prevent pinch injuries and medical device risks when upgrading from standard hoops?
  A: Magnetic embroidery hoops are powerful—treat them like a pinch hazard and keep them away from implanted medical devices.
  • Action: Keep magnetic frames at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or implanted medical devices.
  • Action: Never place fingers between the magnets when closing; let the frame snap together under control.
  • Success check: The frame closes without pinching skin, and hands stay on the outer edges during clamping.
  • If it still fails: Switch to a slower, two-handed “edge grip” routine and clear the work surface so the magnets cannot jump onto tools.
• Q: When is free embroidery viewer software enough for printing templates, and when should I upgrade to magnetic hoops or a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine for efficiency?
  A: Free viewers are enough if the only goal is viewing and printing; upgrade when hooping speed or frequent color changes become the real bottleneck.
  • Action: Stay Level 1 if printing templates and color charts solves the placement problem and setup time is acceptable.
  • Action: Move to Level 2 (magnetic hoops) if standard hoops cause hoop burn, fabric distortion, or slow/failed hooping on thick or delicate items.
  • Action: Consider Level 3 (SEWTECH multi-needle machine) if designs have many color stops and single-needle thread changes are slowing production.
  • Success check: Setup time drops (hooping becomes consistent) and fewer re-hoops happen after the first stitches.
  • If it still fails: Re-check stabilizer choice and hooping strategy—dense designs and stretchy fabrics may require different backing and less tension.